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Filthy Luker

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Posts posted by Filthy Luker

  1. Quite honestly I wouldn't bother with an LSD in the front. By the time you need the added traction you're probably way over the breaking torque of the LSD. The pre '96 H233B 260 ft/lbs is pretty good in most situations but as soon as you lifted a tire it became useless. I am gonna take a wild guess and say that the R200s offer AT MOST what that '96 and up rear diffs had, which is 130 ft/lbs and that's almost an open diff in reality.... what I am getting at is that in sports car terms it may be all cool for all the driftuu **** that don't want to peel out constantly with one tire only in their Silvias, but off road it's useless and not worth the effort and money. You want performance? Weld up the rear and put an ARB in the front. End of story.

  2. Perhaps you missed something...while it is a far better daily driver than your WD21, it simply is not as capable on the trails.  BUT, it has probably already seen tougher trails than your "rig" (which by the way, looks like it's been slammed...they're called T Bars, try adjusting them) ever will.

     

    Having said that, the problem seems to be more the goofy traction control system...I can plant my foot on a good climb, but no spinny spinny and no momentum.

    :clap:

     

    Well said.

     

    The sad fact is that Nissan at this point is milking off the reputation of WD21s to sell more grocery getters.

     

    My truck is 14 years old and it's probably somewhere in the median of how old a properly wheeled Pathy is on this board. I can guarantee that in 14 years a 2005 Pathy won't be able to tackle half the crap that my daily driver sees off road.

  3. IRS is the future.

     

    All the 4X4 ATVs have them, as do most of new production vehicles.

     

    You can learn how to make them work ------------ or drive antiques if you care to ?

    Hehe... sure thing there.

     

    It's one thing on an ATV where it's light and you can make it happen with 9-10" of wheel travel without breaking stuff.

     

    As to antiques? Heck... the most capable thing I've seen is a 1970s Mog... and after that a late 80s Sammi equipped with 70s Ford axles.

  4. The main purpose of the relocation for me was that mud was caked all over the lower block and I was afraid of getting crap in the engine while changing filters. Then with my dual relocation (link above B) ) I got over 1/3rd more oil capacity in the system which means more cooling and more engine protection. I read somewhere that oil is responsible for 20% of cooling duties in the engine so that made me happy. The 1.6L Honda Civic i was beating on before had over 4L of oil capacity and this hard working off roading beast had just over 3L! Something wasn't right. I am currently running Ford Motorsport filters now instead of the Fram crap and I hooked up the oil pressure gauge on the return channel (actually worst reading position there is). On hot oil and dirty filters I get 10 psi on idle and 80 psi at full throttle. My VG30 is gonna be running for ages.

  5. 2.25" is the optimal size tailpipe for these engines. I planned to go with 2.5" back to the muffler and 2.25" after that, but the installer kinda wanted the challenge of squeezing 2.5" in there just to test himself, so he did it at the same price! I can always shove a restrictor in the tail pipe to boost low end torque...

    Read up on exhaust theory man...

     

    Backpressure is bad. Exhaust velocity = good.

     

    Optimum sized piping helps keeping the exhaust velocity up... there are some good writeups available.

  6. You need an enema FL.  :crazy:

    They have been called 'rims' as long as I can remember in Cali so I'm sure that applies somewhat in other places also. ie. "I'm buying Johns rims"...

    Just because an obscene bunch of ricers and stoners call them that does't make it correct.

     

    So what do you call the outside edge of a wheel then? Or the rim of a coffe cup?

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