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pathybuilder

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pathybuilder last won the day on April 23 2012

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About pathybuilder

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident
  • Birthday 03/01/1983

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Pathfinder XE ARB Bumper, 2" BL, OME Coils/shocks, SAW T-bars, Headers/Exhaust, MG Alternator. Currently being built. 33 x 12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZs, Snorkel, Warn XD9000 Winch, Rock Sliders, Detroit Locker, Front Calmini LSD, Rough Country UCAs, T-case Gears
  • Place of Residence
    Alberta Canada
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton
  • Country
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Welcome, I think most around here have somewhat of an obsession with their pathfinders too. The cables are definitely different, you'll need to find another set either in the junk yard or through the parts store if they have a less expensive aftermarket version. IIRC the ones through Nissan dealerships are quite expensive.
  2. I don't know why I keep hearing on here that you can't bolt a locker onto an LSD rear. There are 2 styles of lockers, one will work and one won't work. Lunchbox Locker (the one that replaces your spider gears but the ring gear remains bolted to your existing carrier) - Won't work it can't bolt into the LSD carrier. Full Carrier Lockers (the one that replaces your LSD, the ring gear bolts to it.) - No issues, bolts right in. This is what the ARB's are that the OP posted a link too. enkrypt3d - I would suggest poking your head around the PD section of the FSM. It will give you an idea what your up against if you decide to go the route of rebuild.
  3. I talked to Rugged Rocks about that same kit when I did my front and rear upgrades. It's a great kit if your looking for bearings and pinion seal, but it didn't include shims at the time (even though they are pictured). For the H233B you don't need any shims unless you're changing gears and maybe pinion bearings. The side bearings have side bearing adjusters instead of shims. I got all my shims though Alkorahil. I still have most available as well as the LSD I removed from the rear end. I had a for sale thread (it would be locked by now) but everything I listed I still have. I tried to find it but can only search threads from the past year. It sounds to me like you are more in need of just swapping out the 3rd member if you can find one. If not I've got an LSD carrier you can buy for $50 and throw in, but it's a little more work to get it set up properly. As far as an LSD in the front goes, as long as you have manual locking hubs you can still use it on the street in 2WD. 4WD is a definitely more difficult to turn then when you have an open front end.
  4. I actually just got it on the road a couple weeks ago. Alignment went good. It's back in the garage again doing some body work around the fenders. I have to get fender flares mounted. It looks super aggressive with tires hanging out 3"+ past the fenders. I'll also get a ticket in a hurry if seen on the road with it. The gears are pretty amazing. With 5:13 I can't even tell it's rolling on 33" x 12.5" tires. It honestly feel like more power than when it was stock. I have a steep gravel driveway so with the real locker and aggressive tires, it wants to chew everything up when I drive up into the garage. I do put it into 4wd just to keep the rear end from chewing everything up and you can tell the front LSD is there. It makes it much more difficult to turn than when it was open. I just saw your other thread regarding the LSD and shims so I'll post up some info for you. Sorry for not keeping this thread updated. It's been hard enough finding time to complete the project, never mind keeping a build thread up to date. I honestly considered selling it unfinished a couple months ago due to the time required to complete. Sorry no offroad test yet, soon hopefully.
  5. Different Spline Count. R50 = 33 spline, WD21= 31 spline. Best option is likely to press the backing plates off and use the R-50 axles like in NissanNut's article.
  6. It's because it's a 3rd member style axle. They don't have a diff cover with bolts in it like most other axles out there. The only way to open them up for inspection is to remove axle shafts and pull the front section out.
  7. They are M8 x 1.25. I used 30mm grade 5 bolts with a flat washer and lock washer. Perfect length on my aftermarket headers. Everything from Nissan was special order and I didn't want to wait for it to come in. Bolts work fine, however studs are nice for lining up your manifold. I just did mine and used this thread for info, however some of it may be incorrect. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31230-exhaust-bolts/?hl=%20exhaust%20%20studs One of the posters in this thread posted up this info PN 14037-V5005 - Lock Washer PN 14039-W1500 - Nuts PN 14065-V5004 - Manifold studs They also posted up 40mm bolts as an option, which may work on factory manifolds with the thick washer, however they bottomed out before tightening up on aftermarket headers with thin flat washer and locks. When I gave these part numbers to my local dealership they told me these studs are for a 95 quest. Are they the same as the turbo 300ZX? No idea, but either way they were special order. I hope this helps, I know I got tired and searching threads and went for the first info I could find.
  8. Best solution for cold stiff shifting MT is to throw your transfer case in neutral, put your tranny in 1st gear. Let the transmission oil warm up with the engine temp (20 min if that's how long you let the engine warm up). I learned this off another forum, never had to struggle shifting a cold tranny since. You could certainly do it with auto as well if your auto tranny doesn't like shifting in the cold. The biggest PITA for me when cold is when the fuel door won't open cause it's frozen shut. You shouldn't let your truck get close to empty when it's cold anyway, but this is another reason to always keep your tank 1/2 full. Nothing like running on fumes and not being able to get your fuel door open at the pump.
  9. Whiteshell area? Being from NWO myself and moving out west 11 years ago, I sure can appreciate the beauty in that part of the country. Sounds like fun trip. -36 is pretty bad. Makes you re-think your living situation. Then it warms up and you forget all about it until next winter.
  10. In all honesty, I haven't wheeled it yet. It sat for the last 6 months while I worked on the house and took on other projects. I started it for the first time the other day. First time it's run since I started the build. I'm sure it will be quite capable, however I have a hard enough time finding time to work on my truck never mind keeping a build thread up to date LOL. I wasn't so concerned with the R200A running on reverse cut gears. I assume this is the case with yours as they are from a C200 rear diff? Understandably that the amount of time the truck sees 4x4 is far less than the time you spend in 2WD. My biggest concern is the H233B running on the coast side of the gears as mine appears to be, and likely all other H233B as well. At first I thought maybe I got gears cut for a front axle, but these are the same cut as my factory gears. You can see from my photo above that for the ring gear to rotate clockwise (as would be normal for forward travel), the pinion has to push off of the coast side of the ring gear. My front diff appears to be running on the drive side as would be normal . I guess as long as the gears are designed to run in either direction as you stated above, I shouldn't be too concerned with it. It just surprised me a little.
  11. Very nice trick by the way. I thought I had heard somewhere that Terranos came with an R180 front Diff, but couldn't remember where. Sounds like a pretty tuff little rig. When I did my diffs I also noticed that front / rear gear contact was opposite. I honestly thought that the H233B ran on the coast side, which seemed weird to me as they are notoriously a fairly strong axle. I might have coast / drive sides mixed up. Just to clarify, Isn't the drive side typically the cupped side of the ring gear? Below is the photos from when I swapped in LSD / Locker / Gears. Here's the H233B Third Member. Here's the R200A
  12. I always wondered if any of the R50 guys ever tried mounting the LSD from a WD21 in the R50 housing. I've heard they are a little tighter than the R50 factory limited slip. You would definitely need to pull the axle shafts as well because they are 31 spline to match the carrier. It might be an upgrade though for any of those running drum brakes if you pulled the axle shafts with discs from an SE model. I guess it depends on the axle length. Just a thought. Not really sure if it would work, but it might be worth looking into.
  13. So my Pathy has been sitting for 2 1/2 years while I've undertook a series of small jobs on it. I just finished hooking up new fuel lines as the old were in poor shape. I'm hoping to start the engine tomorrow for the first time since taking it off the road. Is there anything in particular I need to pay attention to as it hasn't been started in such a long time?
  14. OK, so I'm going to tell you what I do know, but by no means am I a differential mechanic so take this for what it is. I undertook a similar task and it took me a long time, so if you get into replacing bearings, ordering spacers etc. and require you vehicle as a daily driver, I'd suggest taking your 3rd member to a reputable differential shop. I looked at the FSM, the measurement you're taking is total preload which as your differential is fully assembled includes the preload in your side bearings. Obviously 2 in-lbs isn't correct as spec for the pinion alone is 10-13 (without oil seal). As this preload you're taking is a combination of pinion bearing preload and side bearing pre-load, I would remove the carrier (I assume it needs to be removed for what you're doing anyway) then see if you can adjust the torque on your pinion nut as it has a wide torque value (145 - 210 ft-lbs). If you can get the pre-load within spec on the pinion bearing by adjusting the torque on the pinion nut, your in a good starting point to figure out what you need for preload on your side bearings. Everything is measured starting with proper preload on your pinion bearings. I hope this helps, unfortunately I don't have an answer for the gap on your thrust washer. I just replaced the LSD. FYI, I replaced both pinion bearings and also the side bearings when mine was apart.

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