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I have the same wheel just like Koveman (Got your pm-btw). I have a cover on it that I want to replace. It just stretches on around the outer rim, is fabric covered and kinda thick. Makes the wheel feel pretty good and not hot in the summer sun.

Try calling the independent japansese specialists in your area. I find a lot of the old dogs from the dealers end up there to finish out. Pass on what you find out.

I am willing to bet that you either accidentally forgot to plug in something you unplugged (or didn't get it tight enough for a good connection) or knocked something else loose while doing the filter. I changed a fuel filter in an old holley once and knocked off a vacuum cap- chased that around for about six hours, after taking everything apart twice!

Dude- you should start a speedo shop! That was a seriously cool thing you found there- nice use of the noggin.

Start by popping off that head. It is most likely junk so start looking for another. Look at the heads of the pistons. If they are not obvioulsy broken, or dented from the valves and there is black carbon on them, clean that off and look for cracks. If the pistons pass, check the other cam sprocket and cam interface for cracks. Also do the same for the tensioner and pump pulley. They may have gotten some weird torque from the incident. Replace the belt with a new one. put it back to gether and go!

We have a saying at out shop that has been around for eons "We give high quality work, we like to do it quickly and we like to save you money. Pick two."

Sorry to hear about the wreck! I guess you got it running then? You gotta do three things: 1-Pics of the rig so we can give you some tips. 2-Tell us what happened in the wreck. 3- Tell us what fixed your truck (We don't really give advice to be helpful, we do it to stroke our egos when we are right and feel superior to other men ) As far as your working on stuff. Your prices are way too low. When I do side jobs at the house I value my time with a dollar figure. I rate my time working on bikes or cars at home at $25 per hour. It was less when I knew less- but I figured if I had a job doing it for $10, i could do it for $12 at home since that was "my" time. Find your worth- then charge accordingly. I also do this with yard work too- if it takes me four hours to do the yard, and I can pay someone $80 dollars to do it for me, I will gladly pay it, save $20 and "make" $25 and hour doing something for me or real money doing it for someone else. Good luck and keep your head up!

No sweat man- I was in your shoes just (OMG I just calulated this!) 22 years ago! I had to quit my jobs to when the grades slipped. THe good thing for you is you have plenty of motivation and enthusiasm and your folks probably see this too- thats why they are holding your truck hostage. Keep us posted on your progress and remember if undertaking a project like this: Take your time, no shortcuts on parts or materials and make it yours.

Nytros! You seem like a smart guy and pretty enthusiastic- but this is the third time I have seen you ask a question, get it answered in a spectacular fashion (thats why I come here- some smart and helpful folks here!) and then you ask a bunch of new questions that are answered directly in the previous answer given to you. Not getting down on you, but if you want the help to continue- start using the help given already. In this case- click the link in My1path's answer and all will be revealed. And My1- that was an awesome link- answered some questions I did not knew I had yet!

I am looking for a cap or at the least a truck bed tent. The center caps are yet to be modded- but the Toy logo does come off, so I think fill it and paint to match or something (or just leave it- not really buggin me) and the fronts I think I may bore out a hole for the hubs and that will take care of the logo!

Okay so I used Oxyclean and water in a spray bottle. Just sprayed it on, waited about 30 seconds and rubbed it off with a towel. No mess and it worked pretty well. My headliner was the light blue with a brown shade from all the accumulated dirt and dust. It doesn't look brand new- but tons better. *WARNING* when putting oxy clean in a spray bottle- vent it every few minutes. I nearly exploded a whole bottle of mix after stepping away for about 10 minutes! Here are some outside pics showing the Sequoia wheels and tires installed and after a nice bath. Not bad for $2250+$400 for wheels tires and truck!

Okay- well at least it sounds like you have a good attitude about this whole thing- and that will make the most important tool a mechanic ever uses function better- your brain. Keep your chin up. Do you have a manual? Any manual? If not get one asap. Comopression test procedure (quick and dirty- use the web to find a print version): -remove all spark plugs. -Dry test by installing guage and ensuring there are no leaks and its tight. Hold TBI butterflys wide open while doing test and test. -Wet test by adding a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder being tested. Add oil, test, move to next, add oil and test- for all. If the numbers come up- you may have just washed the cyl walls down or have bad rings (we already are in disbelief that all cyl fail at once remember). If numbers stay the same- either a valve is not closing (due to timing, bent valves or head gasket leak) or you have badly broken rings. -Just to confirm- -there is no water in the fuel correct? If suspicious, buy some water remover from the part store or your local meth producer (j/k- stay away from him) -the timing is correct? Improper timing can show as low compression too. -Can you rent, buy or borrow a radiator pressure tester? Leakage may indicate a blown head gasket or cracked head causing low compression. -A leak down tester is best (or if you have compressed air and a regulator- you can fab a leaker by using the compression test hose that threads into the motor. Remove the valve in the tube or it will not work. Apply about 6-8 psi of air to each cylinder while it is at top dead center. Listen for air to be escaping at the tailpipe, oil cap, bubbles at radiator cap and at throttle body. Air at tail or TBI indicates leakage past valves, at radiator -head or water jacket, and oil cap- rings or valve guides. -Battery- should not cuase the low compression but will cause a turn over- no start condition easily. -test the fuel pressure regulator per the manual you have. I honestly think you have a fuel issue. Low compression on so many cylinders at once and in such a short amount of time only really happens on catastrophic failures, improper use of compression tester o or head gasket (but usually only one bank of cyl) Be patient, methodical and write down results. When you have a doozy like this- the problem is usually pretty easy to find if you are not freaking out. Tell your parents what I did when I was 15 (a while ago!)- that working on your truck helps to build spatial thinking skills, troubleshooting and problem solving skills, perserverance and a sense of pride when you complete the job. These things keep kids off drugs and dout of trouble (ask any youth counselour) and that is the advice your shop teacher should have gave you. Mine did 23 years ago! Good luck and hang in there.

The FTC did back down after independet testing paid for by Zmax and allowed them to use a few of the claims that they were using. That does not mean that it works well though. Many engine problems and sucesses can be attributed to different things. Was the engine broke in with synthetic (a no no)? Were oil changes done on time? How was the vehilce driven? What kind of oil used? Ever overheat without head gasket damage? etc etc etc On a higher mileage motor I would (by experience) suggest that one uses no engine "cleaners", degunkers or that as the motor has developed shellacing in key areas that may be sealing up oil, air and combustion leaks. Also avoid synthetic on older motors. It tends to create a thick enough film on crank and rodbearings that have more play than a newer motor. Some of the additives are merely a thickener (preventing leaks and blow by on the rings) that is rough on motors when they are cold (this stuff pours out of the bottle thicker than honey!) and some when heated harden and fill spaces that are worn (and theoretically work). I also take sucess stories with a grain of salt unless I was there to witness it. A guy can claim he used superslick on his 200k nissan motor and it would beat V8 chevys while towing a house. When he added it did he change plugs, air filter or fuel filter? All those can increase power- did the superslick do anything? I use seafoam, have toyed with the idea of Zmax and use only Castrol regular oil with a quality filter. I keep my other parts maintained and hope for the best. I would really be interested in reading complete, compreshensive and impartial stories about these additives- not my uncle used...

Try another compression test after putting an ounce of oil in each hole (oil-test-next-oil-test-next etc) to confirm that the cylinders walls have oil on them. Also check your fuel system including Fuel pressure regulator. Some volvos would not start after running fine due to fuel washing down the sides of the cyl walls creating no seal at the oil ring. Put a little oil in and fires right up. The misifre- could be a bad FPR which would cause the above too. Also- as mentioned- double check the distributor alignment, bearing, cap and rotor. A wobbly distributor shaft (happened in my Toy) will also cause a misfire. Make sure you have not blown a head gasket. Same symptoms. Your problem sounds odd for sure but don't give up.

Okay- I searched a little- but after wading through the crap and trying to sift the good out I ran out of time (new daddy here- web time is precious!) I just bought some Toyota Tundra wheels in 17 inch with 275/65-17 off road tires used and installed them. It looks freaking awesome and will take pics when I clean them, remove the Toyota logo from the rear center caps (any ideas- was gonna shave, fill and paint to match) and bore out the front caps so the hub can fit through (unless someone knows of a cap from another countries toys that will fit). I am not going to be doing any serious rock crawling with this. No jumping or any of that crap. Most off road will be fireroads or slow crawling to get to the bitchin trailhead. Fit looks like it could rub at full steering lock and full compression which should be rare. Anyone have this size mounted on stock height truck or pathy and experience issues? I could always cut a little body- but think that looks terrible unless you go all the way and make it prerunner style (rather not- that gets expensive!).