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RedPath88

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RedPath88 last won the day on February 10

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About RedPath88

  • Rank
    I'll Sleep When I'm Dead
  • Birthday 05/24/1975

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    RedPath8801
  • MSN
    RedPath88 at gmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/members/member029.html
  • ICQ
    0

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Basics: 1988 Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 5Spd, 430,000+ Miles. Background Info: I originally purchased this truck in December of 2001, but held off on doing any modifications, for the most part due to the many problems I had with it early on… such as vary poor performance that ended in the truck being completely un-drivable. This was corrected with the replacement of the ECU (which was the root of most of my problems). Soon after that was repaired a broken Camshaft gave me quite the headache, but I luckily came out of that with minimal damage. This was followed by both keyways in the crankshaft rounding out, which led to a new(used) engine. Engine: Performance camshafts, Dual Oil Filter Relocation Kit. The engine was replaced with a used unit (131K) at 291K when both crankshaft keyways rounded out on the original. And this was after the right hand camshaft broke around 270-280K. Waiting on Install: Headers Drivetrain: WARN Premium Manual Hubs, Nissan Hardbody transfer case shift lever (to compensate for the 3in Body Lift). Waiting on Install: LockRight Rear locker, 4.6 in Rear Diff. Convertion to Rear Disk Brakes, Front Diff with 4.6 R&P Suspension: Superlift UCA's, JGC Coils (approx 3in Lift), Sway-a-Way Torsion Bars, ProComp ES3000's, Energy Suspension coil spring isolators/spacers. Steering: Upgraded TK1 Style Centerlink (fixed by Trailchaser since Phil Dawkins of L&P Performance refused to replaced the life endangering Centerlink which he supplied me with) Double Shear Pitman and Idler Arms, Idler Arm Brace. Steering Stabilizer. Body: Performance Accessories 3in Body Lift, Custom Roof rack (adapted Chevy S10 Blazer rack), Ventshade vent visors, Deer dent behind drivers door... and a dent "in" the deer by the ARB *grin* Thule Roof Rack/Cargo Basket. Waiting on Install: Factory Fender Flares, Xterra Roof Rack Electrical & Lighting: 110AMP (Quest/Villager) Alternator. JVC HDR1 High Definition Radio/CD Deck, Overhead DVD system, Navigon 2100 MAX GPS, 1100 watt power inverter and a Cobra 25LTD Classic, Rear High Mount Speakers from a '94, nothing really special yet in the speaker departments. And a pair of PIAA Fog Lamps on the front of the ARB. 5-6 100watt Offroad Lamps. Waiting on install: Two 55watt Rear Facing Lamps for the Thule Basket. Tires/Wheels: 33x10.50 BFG Mud Terrain KM2's on Ultra 589 15x8 wheels. Armor/Recovery: ARB BullBar, HiLift, 12.5K T-Max Winch, recovery straps, portable shovel, axe, First Aid kit, dual tow hooks, etc. Interior: Rear Belts w/Shoulder Harness from a '94, '95 Center Console w/tall arm rest, rear floor ducts for the climate control. ------------------------------------------------------- Did I mention that Phil Dawkins of L&P Performance built and sent me a Centerlink that seems to have been made to endanger my life??? And that he has refused (by ignoring all my attempts at contacting him) to correct the situation by sending me a properly made Centerlink or reimbursing me for the costs involved in having it properly fixed... did I also forget to mention that this has been going on for well over a year now??? Can you guess what my opinion of such a stand up business man and all around great guy Phil Dawkins might be??? Contact Phil Dawkins @ 217-351-8316 and ask him why he has not corrected this situation and why he would endanger my life, my kid’s lives and the lives of those around me by building such a poor product and then actually sending it to me thinking that I am some idiot customer who blindly installs anything I get (Phil, I look at EVERYTHING before I install it, I will not install anything that is questionable to me before making sure that it is safe.. and everyone agreed that the CL you build was NOT even close to safe!!) If you get an answer from him, please let me know, because he sure as hell will not answer those questions for me! Pictures of the Centerlink in question, along with the story can be found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14730
  • Place of Residence
    Corvallis OR USA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western OR USA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Interested in one day getting one of those "lives" people talk about.

Recent Profile Visitors

29,649 profile views
  1. Assuming that you really do mean the Regulator (on the Throttle Body) and not the Damper (part of fuel pump assembly) I did a quick search, limited to Advance, Autozone, Napa & RockAuto, didn't fine a "factory replacement" but there were several aftermarket option that would require the need of custom adaption to be used. Now that is in no way saying that OEM options are not available from 3rd party suppliers... Have you called a local, or online discount Nissan Dealer? Also, they seldom fail and if yours truely has, consider getting one from a wrecking yard.
  2. New rear wiper Installed a new CB. Out went the old trusty Cobra 25 LTD Classic, in went a new Uniden Bearcat 980 SSB. Unfortunately I also discovered that I have an antenna problem, extremely high SWR levels, something that I had not noticed before swapping radios. But, troubleshooting and correcting that will be for another weekend.
  3. As Adam said above you do not need to change stock wheel size for Superlift/Rough Country upper control arms. I've been running them for years with 15 inch rims. Also, I used the bushings that came with them and I've had no issues at all One more thing... they are listed on the site for $300!!! I don't know if Superlift has jacked the price, or if that's just mark up. But I would seriously recommend that you call Superlift directly and order upper control arms for a Nissan Hardbody (do not say Pathfinder.) Unless they themselves have raised the price or simply do not sell the public directly anymore, you should be able to get them for a much better figure. Just make sure the bushings are included. If you're not picky about the color or finish, I would also recommend that you call Rough Country directly and try and do the same, just purchase the upper control arms for a Hardbody in place of the whole "lift kit". Again do not mention Pathfinder when talking to them. Rough Country D21(WD21) UCA are not only made by superlift but they're the same arms simply with a different finish. In the past both Superlift and Rough Country sold directly to consumers and were perfectly willing to sell just the upper control arms. Although they are not spec'ed for Pathfinders they would sell them to you if you said you were putting them on a Hardbody. Over the years a few members here reported when they mentioned Pathfinder, that ended the option of buying them, they would no longer sell them. So just don't risk it. WD21 Pathfinders suspension is exactly the same as the 4x4 D21 Hardbody's.
  4. I know the year range is wrong, but for me is was the TBI Fuel Injectors ('88). A guy as the best (independent) Napa dealer I've ever dealt with was able to find them aftermarket. That was after trying numerous sources... and it was years ago. Those injectors are still in my Pathy! *though the p-brake cables are likely going to replace the injectors in the rankings lok
  5. If I was not who I am, that might have offended me Good advice, see NPORA's missed you!
  6. Now don't take this in a negative way regarding the choice you made as I sincerely hope it works well for you. But, for me personally, I'm not only done with, I've simply had it with Pioneer! When the news broke that they were facing bankruptcy I was actually happy about it because they ultimately did it to themselves by overpricing and under supporting their products. Unfortunately iirc I believe I read that someone had invested in them, which saved... or at least extended a life line to.... that piss-poor company. Full disclosure, I used to be a fan. Several years ago I bought a Pioneer deck for my car but they are absolutely horrible at supporting their products. "If" they even release updates to fix problems that should never have been on a released unit they only do so for a year, maybe two if you're lucky. And then you have a crappy headunit thats full of problems which you likely paid way too much for and they refuse to fix. Their answer is to sell you a new overpriced deck, the starting the cycle all over again. So for me, when this one that I have in the car gives up I will buy a new deck, but it will not be a Pioneer.
  7. Yeah that reminds me that I need to keep an eye out for a good full sized factory wheel with a good tire for the car. It's. Gen2 which which got narrow temps for a spare, unlike the Gen1's which came with a matching full sized wheel & tire. The good thing is that they left the well the same size throughout both generations.
  8. Good advice and glad it was found before the need to use it came to be. I haven't seen it in a while so maybe it finally failed, hopefully no one was hurt when it did. There used to be a Civic that drove around this area what seem like months that had one of the little toy spares like the one above..
  9. Bumping this thread for newer members
  10. Welcome back to NPORA @Mr_Reverse! Feel free to stick around, we can always use someone with your experience here offering advice to others in the NPORA and Pathfinder community as a whole! Along the lines of the shock dumping it's oil, a while back after a (light) wheeling trip I noticed s change in handing. It didn't take long once I started looking to find that I had a lower shock mount (on the axle) literally break away, the mount, not the shock. I have it and have it, temp'ed up, and has been this way for a while just to keep it from dangling down below the axle. One of these days I'm either going to have to take it to a shop or get myself a proper welder and fix it myself. But in the meantime I've learned to compensate in how I drive to account for the handling change.
  11. Sadly that guy appears have a lot of brothers and cousins who seem to think in exactly the same way!
  12. Forum was offline for less than 60 seconds for a minor software update.
  13. Assuming the year in your profile is correct and it's still the factory engine, then the interval for a '94 is 100,000 miles... Technically 105,000 miles (per the '94 FSM), for the timing belt. As long as you're somewhat mechanically inclined, it's a pretty easy job especially with @5523Pathfinder's How To in The Garage
  14. LOCAL BAR!!! (WHY are we yelling? )

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