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RedPath88 last won the day on July 4

RedPath88 had the most liked content!


About RedPath88

  • Birthday 05/24/1975

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    RedPath88 at gmail.com
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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Basics: 1988 Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 5Spd, 430,000+ Miles.Background Info: I originally purchased this truck in December of 2001, but held off on doing any modifications, for the most part due to the many problems I had with it early on… such as vary poor performance that ended in the truck being completely un-drivable. This was corrected with the replacement of the ECU (which was the root of most of my problems). Soon after that was repaired a broken Camshaft gave me quite the headache, but I luckily came out of that with minimal damage. This was followed by both keyways in the crankshaft rounding out, which led to a new(used) engine.Engine: Performance camshafts, Dual Oil Filter Relocation Kit. The engine was replaced with a used unit (131K) at 291K when both crankshaft keyways rounded out on the original. And this was after the right hand camshaft broke around 270-280K. Waiting on Install: Headers Drivetrain:WARN Premium Manual Hubs, Nissan Hardbody transfer case shift lever (to compensate for the 3in Body Lift). Waiting on Install: LockRight Rear locker, 4.6 in Rear Diff. Convertion to Rear Disk Brakes, Front Diff with 4.6 R&PSuspension: Superlift UCA's, JGC Coils (approx 3in Lift), Sway-a-Way Torsion Bars, ProComp ES3000's, Energy Suspension coil spring isolators/spacers.Steering: Upgraded TK1 Style Centerlink (fixed by Trailchaser since Phil Dawkins of L&P Performance refused to replaced the life endangering Centerlink which he supplied me with) Double Shear Pitman and Idler Arms, Idler Arm Brace. Steering Stabilizer.Body: Performance Accessories 3in Body Lift, Custom Roof rack (adapted Chevy S10 Blazer rack), Ventshade vent visors, Deer dent behind drivers door... and a dent "in" the deer by the ARB *grin* Thule Roof Rack/Cargo Basket. Waiting on Install: Factory Fender Flares, Xterra Roof RackElectrical & Lighting: 110AMP (Quest/Villager) Alternator. JVC HDR1 High Definition Radio/CD Deck, Overhead DVD system, Navigon 2100 MAX GPS, 1100 watt power inverter and a Cobra 25LTD Classic, Rear High Mount Speakers from a '94, nothing really special yet in the speaker departments. And a pair of PIAA Fog Lamps on the front of the ARB. 5-6 100watt Offroad Lamps. Waiting on install: Two 55watt Rear Facing Lamps for the Thule Basket.Tires/Wheels: 33x10.50 BFG Mud Terrain KM2's on Ultra 589 15x8 wheels.Armor/Recovery: ARB BullBar, HiLift, 12.5K T-Max Winch, recovery straps, portable shovel, axe, First Aid kit, dual tow hooks, etc.Interior: Rear Belts w/Shoulder Harness from a '94, '95 Center Console w/tall arm rest, rear floor ducts for the climate control.-------------------------------------------------------Did I mention that Phil Dawkins of L&P Performance built and sent me a Centerlink that seems to have been made to endanger my life??? And that he has refused (by ignoring all my attempts at contacting him) to correct the situation by sending me a properly made Centerlink or reimbursing me for the costs involved in having it properly fixed... did I also forget to mention that this has been going on for well over a year now???Can you guess what my opinion of such a stand up business man and all around great guy Phil Dawkins might be???Contact Phil Dawkins @ 217-351-8316 and ask him why he has not corrected this situation and why he would endanger my life, my kid’s lives and the lives of those around me by building such a poor product and then actually sending it to me thinking that I am some idiot customer who blindly installs anything I get (Phil, I look at EVERYTHING before I install it, I will not install anything that is questionable to me before making sure that it is safe.. and everyone agreed that the CL you build was NOT even close to safe!!)If you get an answer from him, please let me know, because he sure as hell will not answer those questions for me!Pictures of the Centerlink in question, along with the story can be found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14730
  • Place of Residence
    Western OR USA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
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  • Location
    Western OR USA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Interested in one day getting one of those "lives" people talk about.

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Community Answers

  1. Forum was offline for about 3min for a security update.
  2. We're sure you've noticed that the forum page loading times have increased lately, in our efforts to identify the cause and remedy this issue the software was upgraded to the the latest version two days ago.... then the very next day another update was released ... which resulted in another updated for our community. If you logged in and received the updating notification page, this is why. Since we are continuing to work on the issue, temporary outages could occur again... Once this has been resolved will work to restore the visual and functional features of the forum. We thank you for your patience while we work through this issue.
  3. The fusible links at the battery are, iirc, a single part and one that is separate from the main cable itself. I had to replace mine 8-12yrs ago... My "reward" for saving the EX. I swapped my good battery into her vehicle on the side of the road... to be fair, it was less about helping her and more about saving my kids, who were broke down with her, while on a visitation. Don't recall the assembly being to costly at all, but no idea what they may go for now days.
  4. Deleted four duplicate posts. Guessing that you were using crapatalk, err I mean tapatalk (my bad lol), to post the topic... Please refresh when posting before you repost. It often does not show your new posy/topic, or may even give an error even though it literally did post your content. Longtime, known, reported and never corrected issue with the app.
  5. Looks good Did you re-index before cranking them? ...if not and you maxed them out, or nearly did, you may consider re-indexing then adjust for height.
  6. First thing I suggest would be to review this thread and see of you have similar symptoms, this may be your issue and fix...
  7. Your are correct about deletion... in this instance I'll just lock this thread. But, given that new/recent threads are already given attention in the sidebar, as this post was as well, please refrain from doing this in the future.
  8. Building off of @Slartibartfast, I would lean towards low pressure... in my personal experience, that has always been the issue, on multiple vehicles, but YMMV. As for the light, in my '88 (not sure about '97s) the light does not turn on unless the clutch is electrically engaged. Meaning no light if the system pressure is below the pressure switches minimum threshhoold.
  9. @mjotrainbrain I honestly don't recall this thread But there have been a few RC related threads over time. But in the interest of moving forward. I currently have some old R/C's, not as old R/C's and a newer clone of an older, but updated, R/C. Kyosho Double Dare, a 1/10th scale 4WDS Nissan Hardbody monster truck. This was my very first hobby class RC. Kyosho Turbo Ultimate, a 1/10th scale 2WD off road buggy Yokomo YZ10, a 1/10th scale 4WD off road buggy. One of my favorites and has been modified extensively. Duratrax 835B, an 1/8th scale 4WD Nitro Buggy. Bought three of them (two for the boys) tons-of-fun! Always wanted a Kyosho Inferno when I was a kid, but could never afford one. Tamyia Bruiser clone, a 1/10th scale Toyota 4WD replica. This replaced the Tamyia Mountaineer (different version of the same model) that I sold to my brother to by my first, real, car. Thee agreed condition was that if he ever sold it, I got first option to buy back. 3-5yrs after he sold it, I found out that he had, sold it! I actually have two of these, as one is slated for a special project at some point. No longer have my Plane or Helo. Also sold/traded away my Losi XXT and gold pan RC10 long, long ago.
  10. Yesterday: Jumped my neighbors van after he left his dome light on all night. After parking and locking the Pathy back up I noticed smoke coming from under the hood. Popped it and found that where there is smoke, there is fire! On the RH side of the intake manifold next to the TB. Today: Replaced all the soft fuel lines from the frame rail to the TB. Problem solved
  11. As far as I can remember it was in regard to the instance I mentioned above, which was quite a few years ago. Have you called or emailed SuperLift about it?
  12. Front shock length requirement does not change with lift. SuperLift/Rough Country UCA's would be my recommendation as well. See my post in the following thread
  13. Yeah the Calmini and SL/RC arms all correct ball joint angles as part of their design, AC are the only ones that do not. But that said said many have reported no alignment issues, with our own @5523Pathfinder being one of them.
  14. Looks good! Just adding the following context for other members... People have reported in the past that Calmini UCA's has had, iirc, premature bushing wear issues and AC UCA's have given many alignment problems. Neither of these are across the board,but the numbers were high enough to be a consideration. My personal recommendation, and what I run, is SuperLift/Rough Country D21 UCA's. Superlift manufactures them and the difference is only in the coating, nickel on SL & a rough textured powder coat on RC. The only complaint about them that I can recall was a bad production run that left their inner mounts out of alignment. Once the issue had been identified, it was corrected and affected units were replaced with just a call. I originally bought RC branded arms, and SL quickly replaced them with SL versions. This issue is documented here on the forum. If they are still available, assuming they still make and sell in the same way, they come as a package lift for 4x4 Hardbody's (with rear blocks) only and are not available for a Pathfinder. However, they are equally compatible with all WD21 pathfinders as they use the same front suspension as the 4WD HB's The way to get just the arms years ago was to call RC and request just the arms (with bushing/accessories) and to not tell them that they were for a WD21. Some have said that they don't do this anymore, while I believe some have got them. So I can't say if you can still get a set or not. But I can say that how you spoke to them, perhaps even who you spoke to, back when many people were buying them directly from Rough Country, effected your success.
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