sherwood

I wouldn't mind the air conditioner

Saw another thread that gave me this idea. -Ripped CV boot, plan on changing the whole CV joint before winter and I think I'm going to try those Rockford Heavy Duty CV boots. -Fuel Pump/Fuel Filter -I have two rust spots I'd like to take care of before winter -And I think I have a ball joint that might need to be replaced soon. -Definitely going to flush out my radiator and heater core as well. Bout' it. What do you guys have to do?

I adjusted the TPS back to where is was originally and haven't noticed any problems since. It's weird...but if my check engine light comes on again sporting the same codes I'm just going to replace the TPS and call it a day.

I'd like to hear from one of you guys if it works good.

NPORA Map It seems like Frappr has been down for over two months. I started this one in case you wanted to keep going. Tom

I always replace the wires when doing a spark plug tune up. And I definitely agree with B. You would want to know if theres any pending codes.

Will that affect articulation at all? By the way, I had no idea where that bar was supposed to be installed and I looked at the first pic for a few minutes trying to find it heh.

I assumed I ruined an ABS sensor because as soon as I replaced the CV shaft the light came on. I was reading somewhere that messing with them in the slightest can ruin them. I also read that giving them a little cleaning can make it work again. Anyway...I checked the Voltage from the PCM to the TPS, which is good. But the part I'm confused about is the ohms coming from the closed and open throttle. Ohms are at zero when it's closed and the ohm reading is supposed to gradually go up as I open the throttle. The ohm reading topped out at 230 something, but dropped to 80 and back up, and this was wide open. Does that mean the TPS is in fact bad?

not one person has an idea?

My check engine light came on two days ago. My vehicle seemed to be running fine. I put it on the computer and received these two error codes. P0733 was pending twice and the other only pended once. They are both active now. P0733 refers to Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio P0510 refers to Throttle Position Switch I'm pretty sure I have a bad ABS or Speed sensor because when I changed my CV shaft I must have ruined it. I wasn't sure if that would cause the problem, but that was months ago and my ABS light has been on since. I figured I wouldn't worry about ABS till winter. I do have over sized tires too, my speedometer is only off about 4 MPH. I don't know these scanners too well so my boss messed with it. He put it on active mode and it showed my throttle at 91% and my idle at 9%. He messed with I'm guessing the TPS and adjusted it till it was at 100%. It runs fine when in drive, but when idling it runs very fast. it idles around 2500rpm.

I usually use Matco and SK tools at the shop. At home most of my tools are from harbor freight.

Could be the bearing set. I took mine off and greased it well. It's just a band-aid but it's held up in for almost a year.

Bought my 1997 R50 with 46,000 6 years ago, it now has 102,000 original miles. My 1998 Subaru Forester has 274,000 original miles. I'll be sticking with Nissan's and Subaru's for the rest of my life. I might jump on the Toyota boat someday if I ever decide to restore my old 76' Cruiser.

Your front diff doesn't have a limited slip. It should say in your owners manual if you need to add an additive. I'm not positive if it's necessary, I put the Napa brand in mine just to be safe.

Battlefield Bad Company 2 This is the only game I have on my Xbox 360. It's pretty cool to destroy buildings and race around on four wheelers