Animal

:o Oh, my mistake. In that case follow it backward starting with the idler arm as 88 suggested. That is unless you also have the same play top an bottom. Top to bottom would most likely be whatever you haven't replaced in the from suspension - control arm bushings maybe? If it is, I can give you some tips; like - ES has poly bushings - order the bolt, believe it is called a "rod" or "pin" for the lower control arm before you start. They aren't cheap (MSRP arounf $25 each, available for around $16 if you shop and have time). - if the bolt/pin/rod is seized, don't fight it, cut it (Oxy/Acetylene works if you are good and careful) - be prepared for the job from hell - good news is if you decide to do the rear bushing as well, they will seem easy afterward

Refer to the FSM (it's available to download for free somewhere). The adjustments are bench preload adjustments, done with the steering gear (box) removed. Personally, I've only messed with steering boxes on old ('60s) US cars and have yet to do a Pathy. It doesn't look difficult, though you should plan to spend a weekend on it and be prepared for longer outage in case your inspection reveals replacement parts are needed. If money isn't a consideration, you could replace the whole box as a unit, but they ain't cheap.

Sounds exactly like the problem I had. I also noticed a drop in mileage of 2-3 mpg, which is more difficult to notice if you live in an area where they keep messing with the formula, as I do. I fixed mine by retensioning the harness connectors on the MAF and TP sensors. I identified the cause by pressing on the connector when the idle was low. It would start to idle normal when I did. You could have the same problem, or possibly a bad sensor. Same symptoms.

Recirculating-ball steering has some inherent play. Up to 1.38 inches is within spec. for Pathys. If it is more than this, first make certain where the play is coming from. This really take 2 people; one to turn the wheel and the other to watch. If the Pitman arm doesn't move as soon as it should, the steering box may be worn and in need of adjustment or replacement. Next, check the link (a.k.a. relay) rod ends and the idler arm (one of the weakest parts of our steering systems). The tie rod ends would be next, but you've already replaced them.

It's called Nissan Consult, from what I have seen. Someone's got one on eBay. Don't know you can get anymore from it than the light. Here's another.

I agree, soft copy is better. Doesn't get lost, greasy or torn. Easier to search, zoom and open more than one page at a time. Just a few things to consider.

A BFH works on the tabs too. ... and I believe you were looking for the word "bushings"

Look close at the tip of the needle to see if it is not hanging on the faceplate marks. I had this problem on my speedometer; it would hang on every 5 mph mark. The fix was to remove the dash and carefully bend the needle away from the faceplate. It took quite a bit, close to 90 degrees, to keep it from touching.

The brake lights are fed 12v from the switch through a G/Y (green/yellow) wire. You might try pulling the brake light fuse (10A) and turn you lights on. If the brake lights are on, meter (or probe) the G/Y wire. If there is 12V, remove the 2 or 3 brake light bulbs. If there is still 12V, follow the G/Y wire and unplug connectors.

As 88 said, going between 2wd and 4wd is all mechanical linkage. The components in the transfer box are nearly identical to a manual transmission; the shift linkage (levers and shafts) move the forks which slide the sleeves on and off the sprockets. If moving the shift lever to 2WD does not immediately disengage 4WD (regardless of the light, the switch can lie) something is probably loose or worn. Changing the fluid (particularly to synthetic) may help compensate for either. Hubs are a different matter, but they do not control the transfer box.

There is a contact in the wiper motor that opens when the arm is rest position. If it is not opening long enough, there won't be enough time for the motor to stop before the contact is made again will continuously cycle. If this is the cause, you can: 1. disassemble the rear hatch and a. disassemble the motor/switch then maybe figure out how to adjust the contact b. replace the contact (probably part of the motor assembly) 2. pull the fuse, which appears to be what the previous owner decided was the best choice. There are also two relays, diodes and an "amplifier" in the circuit. So, unless you are good at tracing circuits, you might want to find someone who is or pull the fuse.

ROADWORKSAUTO.COM has molded vinyl floor covering. I plan on putting mine in once the weather warms up (when the vinyl's a bit easier to work with). It may not be the cheapest way to go, but it's cheaper now than when I bought mine *cough*overayearago*cough* and has matting for sound and thermal isolation.

After doing the filter relocation, I would recommend it even with stock manifolds. Oil changes will be that much easier and the larger filter and additional oil capacity that much better for the engine. From what I have read here and on other forums, the Thorleys are better made. I have no experience with them but can say the Pacesetters, though functional, do not appear to have been made with pride.

Thanks all for the quick replies. This is what I thought (and am use to), but normally the heads are not drilled and threaded deep enough for the longer threads. Other engines I have worked on have a bigger difference. This is why I started to question this in the first place. Since the non-threaded portion is the same depth regardless, they will tighten up either way. I guess I'll leave them as is and be satisfied.

Well, I finally started putting the replacement parts on I've had laying around; complete new clutch assembly, including flywheel, rear main seal (reason for new clutch), Pacesetter headers (I know I should have bought Thorelys, but had these before I knew better) with added flanges to crossover pipe and oil filter relocation kit. Starting the front and rear steering and suspension parts tomorrow, but ... I installed the new exhaust studs and (here's where it gets bad) the one on the rear passenger side stripped in the head when tightening the header flange. Dreading the prospect of the heli-coil route, we seem to have fixed the problem. Now I have a question. I have looked in all the books, searched high and low and can not find the answer so ... how are the studs supposed to go? There are short and long thread ends. The ones I removed were short thread in the heads, but measuring, we discovered the threads in the head are long enough for the long end and considering that this is into aluminum, it would seem best to have as much thread as possible. However, that is not how the old ones were installed, so I am wondering if they were not installed correctly. Putting the long thread end in the head, with a little liquid metal for good measure, held well enough to tighten the header flange, but I am left wondering if the other 11 are installed correctly and if so, what logic, if any, is behind using fewer threads into aluminum heads?