rokris8079

I was thinking more like an aftermarket muffler and eliminating the resonator. I am hoping I can get it done for around $200.

So my wife was driving her 97 pathfinder SE 4x4 and kept hearing a banging rattling noise coming from the back. She called me and said "I think the muffler is going to fall off". When I get home from work I lay on the ground and barely touch the muffler and the whole dam thing fell to the ground. It rusted right out and snapped about an inch behind the flange. Upon further inspection all the remaining pipes on the truck are all rusted out too. I was hopeing I can just get a new rear section and muffler but I don't think the shop will be able to attach the rear section to the mid since it's so rusty. I am pretty broke right now so I was trying to get away without putting on a whole new exhaust. Anyone have any suggestions for me? If it seems that I do need a whole new system please let me know what to get and where to go to get it. I kinda need it quick. Anyone just go to Monroe or any other muffler shop and have them put a new exhaust on? How much do you think that will cost? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks for the advise. I haven't had time to really look into it yet. We leave for work early and by the time my wife gets back home with the truck it's dark. I do check the oil every morning and it is still full. I got to thinking? Through my searching it appears that cam seals could be a culprit. Since I just had the cam seals done, would the changing of the seals cause oil all over that area? I am thinking that oil in that area that I originally seen was from the work done to my vehicle. Then I cleaned the area as best I could and hosed the whole thing down. Now the new wetness I found is probably just leftover oil and water gradually making it's way downward. I am still going to tear it apart to be sure but this seems like a likely situation. Again thanks for everyones help and I will report back if I have any problems.

Went to drain and fill the tranny this weekend and noticed oil on my skid plate. At first I thought no big deal. Thought it was left over oil from the last oil change. It does get a little oilly around there due to the wonderful placement of the filter on the 3.3. Then I remembered I was a little low on oil when I checked it the previous day. Say maybe a half to a quart low. I run semi-synthetic 10w 30 and change the oil myself every 4-5k. When I took the skid plate off the filter was covered in oil? Genuine Nissan filter by the way. I thought maybe there was filter gasket left on the block and the filter didn't seat right. When changing the oil I made sure to properly lube the new filter and to clean off the mating surfaces. I ran the truck for about 10 minutes and didn't notice any oil leaking so I put the skid plate back on. Next day I see more oil on the skid plate. I looked through the little hole on the plate to see if the filter was covered in oil but it wasn't. So my question is what else can be leaking around that area? My oil pressure switch (I think that's what I saw?) was also covered in oil. Any info is appreciated. For all I know though it's still just left over oil from removing the filter again. But I wiped down area pretty good. There is tons of little pockets for the oil to get trapped in. I am just trying to be prepared. BTW recent work to the truck includes timing belt, cam seals, new crank pully and water pump. All nissan parts done at a local shop.

I just put some black velcro to the left of the radio. I know it's ghetto and doesn't add hp like a type s mount would but it's fully functional and very discrete. I did the same thing in my infiniti g20. Plus it costs me a total of $0 since my job has velcro lying around.

Thanks for the input. The dealership I get my parts from want's $160. The only thing is I am going to have to overnight it. That's hoping they even have it in stock.

Well I finally got the truck in the shop for the tbelt. I guess I needed one more part. The dam crankshaft pully was split in two! It just spins freely. It's all rotted out and the rubber dampener is shot. That thing costs more than all the other parts combined. Dealer only part and the list price is $213! Truck was in the shop on saturday so everything is closed. Plus I will probably have to order the part and wait for it to come in so I will be without the pathy for a few more days! Better to find out this way instead of the truck breaking down with my wife driving the baby around. Strange thing is the truck had been driving beautiful!

I am having my mechanic do all the work. It's just too dam cold for me to do anything myself. Thanks for the input on the gaskets. I was just wondering if nissan used a gasket originally or if it was the liquid sealant.

lewisnc100 thanks for the pics and the part numbers. One question though, was it necassary to change the tensioner? Since I am ordering the parts and have to wait for them to ship I don't want my mechanic to have the dam thing apart and then tell me he needs another part. Also is there any nissan gaskets for the waterpump or thermostat? I am going to do the dizzy cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve and air filter also. I just got four brand new 265/70/r15 Yokohama ht/s's last week and a computer allignment. A few months ago I got the front suspension done. This truck is going to be absolutely perfect when I am done. By the way the truck is in need of a tune up and I still get about 300 miles on a tank of gas with almost all highway miles. With some city it's slightly less.

I am finally going to bring the pathfinder in for the timing belt and waterpump. I was wondering if there was anything else I should change at the same time. Trying to save some money on labor and headaches down the road. Through my searching everyone says "seals". Anyone have any specifics on this, or better yet nissan part numbers? The truck needs new drive belts also should I get those done at the same time? Any help here is appreciated.

I guess a bad tank could do it? Run it out fill her up and reset the codes and see if they come back. I am still pointing to a maf problem. You know anyone you can swap mafs out with to see if the problem goes away? In the car world these are very common codes and I would say about 85% of the time have to do with the MAF. Good luck!

I have gotten over 300 miles on a tank with my 97. Plus it's in dier need of a tuneup. Granted these were on trips to maine so mostly highway but there was also plenty of stop and go traffic on the mass pike. I would say on average I get about 260 on a full tank with city and highway driving. As long as there isn't any long steep hills.

I meant air filter. K&N style air filters need to be oiled. If you over oil it or drive it right after its been oiled you suck the oil through it and it coats your maf wire. Then besides being covered in oil dirt sticks to it. Then the maf can't properly register the air coming in which causes a lean condition, which trips codes p0171 and p0174.

You don't happen to have an aftermarket filter that uses oil do you? The two codes are most commonly traced back to an over oiled filter and the oil coating your maf wire (or a dirty maf wire).

Still a good price. Seriously how much more can they charge to change the seals and other stuff. They are already right there. Shouldn't be too much more. I am going to start pricing different shops. She has 102k on her so I have to hurry up. I really don't want to go over the recommended 105k change interval. Anyone know of any good trusting mechanics in CT?