andreus009

Body lift on 95 doesn't require spring cutting or changing coilovers. Biggest challenge is the shifter(s)

All the bump stops I listed are for the front. The low profile are the upper ones. The taller ones go on the bottom or lower arm. I don't have any issues with the rear...that I know of.

yeah...that was my thinking too about the upper ones. I think my stock uppers are okay for now, but the lowers have really taken a beating. These look better than the stock ones. Thanks

So where do I get low profile ones? I saw several posts talking about them, but none seem to say where they are available from. I found these for the upper: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/low-profile-bump-stops-p-345.html https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/ultra-low-profile-bump-stops-p-346.html and it looks like these are now available for the lowers: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/lower-aarm-bump-stops-p-6397.html Anyone know of anything else?

Anyone know 4wheelers/quads? Didn't Polaris use CVTs? I know in my senior design class we used a CVT setup stolen from a Polaris? for our mini-baja project. It wasnt' computer controlled and worked on centrifugal force/speed.

Agreed, the stock stereo with the upgraded speakers I have are loud enough to make your ears hurt. Now, of course if you want deep rumbling rust rattling bass you need to add a sub somewhere.

I put a Blaupunkt CD player in the Pathy shortly after I got it. Junk. Eventually switched back to the stock AM/FM cassette deck and added in the Factory CD player.

Well Simon drives a 2000 X. So maybe he can give you some feed back from there. Also, you could check on the NOAS forum as that has broader base of vehicles.

Yeah. Fan clutch replacement is a lot simpler than going E-fan. BTW, where is your fan shroud? Do you normally run without it?

I have sway-away and they came from AC. Just checked my old orders with them. Dont forget your dust boots

Anyone have FSM for a 2000 Ford Taurus? {Ducks the tomatoes}

Personally, if that is rebuilt then $400 seems pretty good for a whole transmission and transfer case. Kinda surprised that its the same price with or without transfer case.

So it says from Japan to America c/o of Dodge....who was the actual manufacturer then? Datsun/Nissan given its similarities to the B210?

Should this get pinned or even linked in the FSM thread?

Snap-On

I'd agree with B. Need to keep in mind that you'll probably need both English and Metric. Couple different crescent wrench can't hurt...in case you don't have the right wrench. Some channel lock pliers above beyond the vise grips/regular pliers. Spring clip removers come to mind. A magnetic pick-up stick. Extending kind like an antenna. Include a variety of extensions with your sockets and at least one universal.

Oh you mean like this?

Hmm...FWD vs RWD in poor traction conditions...give me FWD anyday. The weight is where the drive wheels and therefore better chance of having traction and less likely to have your back end coming around to your front end. BTW...a pathfinder....(at least up to 2000) are a far cry from a large luxury vehicle.

I've seen somewhere around here somebody posting about how their Pathy worked in snow/ice with it locked. The nice about an air locker is you get a choice whether you want be locked or not. Downside with the Pathy is that the price of an air locker new is pretty high....~800 for just the locker, then you need an air tank and a compressor. Maybe you can get lucky and find one used.

I have an open element like that, but my electric fans drown out any noise that might be coming from it.

I used this heat sheath/sleeve on my fuel lines: http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving

Pretty sure this is the one I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-291/?rtype=10

Well, I know this is a late reply but its not a teflon lining. The whole hose is teflon with a stainless steel braided jacket (see H243 on page 50 of their online 'paper' catalog). The teflon hose has temp rating from -100F to +450F which is why I went this route....the hoses run close to the headers in my case. The stainless helps with abrasion and reflects heat also. I have had them on a few years now and not had a problem so far. I explained to the guy at the store exactly what I was doing and he didn't mention any concern about the hoses breakdown over time. Anyways, I'm sure there are cheaper suitable alternatives.

Well that rules out that theory . I assume you don't think its just rust?

Is the sludge oily to the touch? Once upon a time had a car that the transmission cooler part of the radiator had a crack/leak that let the transmission fluid into the water area.