andreus009
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Posts posted by andreus009
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Do you mean the center console between the seats with the E-brake? My interior is out and I can check tonight.
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Re-installed front differential using 3/8" drop bushings from AC.. ARB locker was put in it last weekend.
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I want the whole thing...no wait..just these 'whole' things. What is air?
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I've never bleed my system after a replacement, but I have noticed there is a bleed screw on the damper. The damper is on the passenger side fire wall.
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Word of caution if you are going to wheel it hard.
You are gonna want the adjusters to be recessed into the cross-member when you get them to their final adjusted position. Doing so prevents them from hanging down and getting hung up on obstacles. Not sure if that is mentioned in the 'how to' or not. Having been there and done that I thought it was worth mentioning
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Going to 35" tires with stock gearing with give you terrible acceleration power. These things aren't known to be that peppy to begin with, much less with 4" oversized tires
To get things back 'normal' for driveability you'd need to to re-gear the axles which is $500 a set, generally speaking. You'd need two. Front and Rear. Not to mention cost of installing the gears.
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To go into Neutral and then into 4 Low, the transmission must also be in Neutral, be it manual or auto.
Umm..not so. You can change hi/lo range with transmission in gear. I know cause I've done it even while rolling (not recommended really).
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Those look like the ones in a install thread I found on the board. But like the few places I found, they aren't US based (they are in Australia) so shipping is a bigger killer. Looks like 4x4parts.com is my only hope. Thanks for looking man.
Well, they do have local distributors. Check the 'where to buy' link on their website. There are some distributors in Cali.
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Nice Job
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Hmm. Seems SuperPro has those also, but they don't appear to be split like the ones shown on 4x4parts.com. I checked Prothane, Energy, and Daystar again and didn't see anything for theses. Odd that they all have stuff for the front but nothing for the rear.
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Basically looks like these guys are the only ones that make a poly bushing for the track/pan hard bar:
If you go to the 'where to buy' link at the top of the page you can select north America from the map. Appears a few dealers in Cali, so maybe you can get lucky???
I checked Daystar, Prothane, and EnergySuspension and didn't see anything.
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is this what you need?
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-rear-pan-hard-rod-bushings-p-2519.html
if so I found this link that looks like the same thing
Also carried by
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SPF1248K
But both these places are more expensive than 4x4parts.com
Moog and others seem to sell OEM style but I guess you'll need a press to get them out and back in.
Yeah, I know this doesn't help much. Sorry.
How much did that want for shipping?
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DESCRIPTION MANUFACTURER PART# LINK
UPPER CONTROL ARM BUMPSTOP(1) ENERGY SUSPENSION 9.9102R http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-9102R-Profile-Bump/dp/B000CN5GQ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1366634268&sr=1-1&keywords=9.9102R
LOWER CONTROL ARM BUMPSTOP(2) ENERGY SUSPENSION 9.9101R http://www.truckspring.com/suspension-parts/performance-hardware/bump-stops/energy-suspension-ENE9.9101R.aspx
NOTES:
(1) THESE ARE CONSIDERED LOW PROFILE COMPARED TO ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT. I BELIEVE THERE IS ALSO AN EXTRA LOW PROFILE OPTION.
(2) UNIVERSAL BUMP STOP. CAN BE CUT TO SUIT FOR HEIGHT. LINK IS GIVEN FOR CORRECT PICTURE. I PURCHASED FROM AMAZON BUT THE PICTURE IS WRONG, BUT STILL GOT THE RIGHT
PART.
MY APPLICATION: 1995 NISSAN PATHFINDER 4X4
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DESCRIPTION MANUFACTURER PART# LINK
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS(1) ENERGY SUSPENSION 7.3102R http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-7-3102R-Central-Bushing/dp/B000CN9AZ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1366633562&sr=8-3&keywords=7.3102
COMPRESSION ROD BUSHINGS(1) ENERGY SUSPENSION 7.7106R http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-7-7106R-Strut-Nissan/dp/B000CNB39M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1366633799&sr=1-1&keywords=7.7106R
NOTES:
(1) DOES BOTH SIDES
MY APPLICATION: 1995 PATHFINDER XE
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Well, I guess I'll seal it as instructed. I wouldn't mind so much but there is that intermediate plate that makes it more challenging cause you have seal as well. Was just hoping to justify avoiding the work.
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According to the tech repair manual the manual transmission is supposed to be sealed between the bell housing and the engine. Anyone know why this is done considering there is a drain hole in the bottom of the bell housing that will let water in anyway if submerged?
Thanks
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it's also not supposed to be in 4 billion pieces (counting dust particles too).
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This past weekend I figured out what happened to my clutch:
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In the picture I still had the factory bump stops but later found them self destructed (mostly due to dry rot/age) so I installed these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387A15Q/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (3" Bump Stops)
However, after installing them I can flex it like shown in the picture and still the bump stops aren't touching the perch. I should have probably gone with these:
http://www.amazon.com/Prothane-19-1311-Multi-Mount-Suspension-Bump/dp/B00387A2AK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=T7U27WZF6EZ3&coliid=IZI5FA83FP6GC (41/2" Bump Stops)
My plan is to add 2x2 box spacer behind my 3" Bump Stops. Hoping it won't over limit me on the flex, but if it does I'll probably try to find some 1x2 box. The 2x2 box was free. As a side note, if you should choose to use these you can use one of the existing bump stop holes, but you'll have to drill a second hole and put a nut inside the frame rail. It's a little tricky but doable.
In the picture you can see the wheel is touching the fender well. I've had it rub like this while actually moving and haven't ripped a fender yet and its rubbed pretty hard on occasion. I'll try to post up some pics of where it rubs later on.
In my build went for a 3" body lift only w/o suspension lift. I wanted to avoid bad CV angles. My suggestion is if you want bump stops then once your are done building it go find some place to flex it hard and measure. I did mine based upon garage measurements and it didn't quite work out, but unfortunately I didn't have a good place to flex it close to home.
Amazon has turned out to be a great place to buy car parts. I have a Prime membership which costs like $70/$90 a year but you get free 2 day shipping on alot of items. What I have saved in shipping has more than paid for the membership. Plus I get things faster than I would from most other places w/o paying for expedited shipping.
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Here's the headers ready for paint. Can you tell which one had header wrap installed?? I know that the wrap traps heat and leads to corrosion, but it also saves other things form melting so it's kind of a double edged sword. Hopefully the new paint will last at least as long as the original pacesetter ceramic coating did. (2 years maybe)
Well I hope you guys are enjoying my build thread so far. I am learning a lot, and really enjoying building up my pathfinder. I'm to the point now where I just want to get out and wheel it.
I had similar concerns with heat so I used heat sheath by Design Engineering on hoses and such that ran near the the passenger exhaust header.
It's been on there a couple years and has held up pretty well. If you are interested I can take photo and post it here.
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Just an FYI for those of you looking for bushings/bump stops. Amazon sells quite a few that work with our Pathfinder's as well. For the front is as follows:
Upper Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9102R Low Profile Bump Stop - Pack of 2
Lower Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9101R Universal Bump Stop Red All
Strut Rod Bushings: Energy Suspension 7.7106R Strut Rod Set for Nissan
Control Arm Bushings (All): Energy Suspension 7.3102R Central Arm Bushing for Nissan
All the above can be found on Amazon. The picture is wrong in Amazon for the lower bump stops, but it will work. It's a universal bump stop that can be cut to suit. Google just the part number and you'll find a correct picture. Also, Amazon isn't always right about whether or not it will fit your vehicle. For example Amazon says the Upper Bump Stops don't fit Pathfinder, but they do. Sorry for the thread jack.
Nice job on the build. Looks like you are doing it right from the get go. You might have you have more flex than you think once you take it out on the road. Very hard to simulate the full weight load transfer in the garage with jacks. I did something similar to see how the rear stuff in the wheel well and though all should be good. However, in reality....it'll jam in there pretty good.
I don't have coil spacers so you'll have some added push to keep out of the well, but just be aware it may go up in there farther than you think
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I just drained the front diff on mine and fluid was still pretty good looking for 200,000 miles and never been changed since I bought it in 97. I know it doesn't get as much use the rear so not as likely to get contaminated.
Sounds like you need a 1/2" extension to get down below stuff for the transmission drain. Alternate, might be using an impact gun with caution and/or some heat around the plug.
I'll look at my front diff tonight to see if I have any ideas.
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The locker works pretty well most of the time, although it doesn't occasionally act funny on the road and goes bang when taking off from a stop. It's weird, can never pinpoint when it is going to happen or bad it will be. So far not self destruct so I guess its kinda normal. I got some stuff from Amsoil that I'm going to put in the diff that is supposed to help with it making noise. We will see. I only have the Detroit in the rear axle. BTW, no grinding to install the locker. I got the version that goes in your own carrier:
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/detroit-locker-p-2684.html.
Installing the extra low gears in the t-case does require some grinding of the t-case casing and is kinda of PIA. Also, require blood....the internal edges are sharp since no one is supposed to go in there after its built. I'd say the low gears would be my second best mod after the locker, especially since I drive a stick.
I have an ARB ready to install for the front. I was/am too nervous about putting a non-selectable locker in the front. Some of the wheeling around here locally takes some tight turns and I didn't want to have to get out and unlock my hubs to prevent bind up. If you gonna get serious about off-roading than a locker is almost a must. It is by far the best capability improver for the money.
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I'd much rather pull the engine out than drop the transmission.
To each their own..i'd rather drop the transmission. Less wires and hoses to deal with.
two fast questions and a discussion starter
in The Garage
Posted
I am relieved you mentioned the Amsoil MTG for the manual transmission, since this is what I just put in it. I've used Royal Purple before but its expensive. I only used cause I didn't have time to wait to order either Amsoil or Redline. Getting harder and harder to find yellow metal compatible gear oil in normal auto parts stores.
Not thread jack, but what is your opinion on Lucas Oil stablizer?