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andreus009

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Everything posted by andreus009

  1. Yeah, just thought in case someone else found themselves in a time bind like I was that this could be useful. It took me hours to finally find something that I thought would work. Rob's prices are good, and shipping is usually quick. Guess I could send my spare bolts and nuts to you or B and you guys could be an as needed vendor.
  2. 2CE27 Hex Cap Screw, Stl, 1/2-13 x 6, PK 25 $59.70 2GB94 Hex Nut, Thick, 1/2-13, 3/4 In, PK 50 $41.20 This came up in a status update so I thought I'd share my experience. I have used the above successfully in place of my OEM index bolt. You have to oversize the holes in the saddle, and half sphere washer but the material is not hard so a 1/2 inch drill bit works. The reason I did this was because I could get these overnighted, and I needed a bolt to be able to go wheeling the upcoming weekend. I could not find a fully thread bolt locally that was long enough to do the job, and I wouldn't trust the strength of all-thread. On that note I have a word of caution, if you use an impact or air ratchet to tighten/loosen these bolts be sure to clean and lubricate the threads. Also, pause frequently because at this load level, constant fast rotation builds up a lot of heat and can lead to galling which is why I needed an immediate replacement. Happy Wheelin
  3. Here's one link on oil filter relocation http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33095-starter-below-the-oil-filter and another http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24075-oil-filter-relocation-kit which in turn contains another
  4. I saw one the latest editions of Pathfinder yesterday. Wouldn't be able to tell it was a Pathfinder other than the badge. Looked way more like the Murano or some other mini van like thing
  5. One small correction to the above..the auto hubs lock when the CV shaft tries to drive the wheel. The tire can remain stationary and it still will lock. If you don't plan to wheel hard the auto hubs will do just fine. I put mine through a good amount of abuse before I broke one. Auto hubs are nice for being able to put it in 4wheel drive to deal with bad road conditions & weather cause you get to stay in the vehicle and not get wet.
  6. Just an FYI since it wasn't already mentioned here. Typically, you do the water pump at the same time since its right there in front of you when you are doing the timing belt. Otherwise, if you wait for pump to fail you have to do the same tear down again and risk the timing belt by getting coolant on it.
  7. I made the mistake of wheeling alone, got stuck in a deep puddle and flooded the driver sided of the truck. Ruined the ABS computer/controller under the driver seat. I got lucky it wasn't the passenger side. You can flood the computer long before the engine will suck water even with stock intake set-up.
  8. Yep, If I was going to do it over again for 4x4 purposes then a Jeep would more likely be my choice just cause parts are so much cheaper and easier to come by. However, does seem they break more often. Not sure if that is driver related or just quality. Probably a bit of both.
  9. Car shouldn't go back down unless lug nuts are at least snugged with a breaker bar and the wheel jammed so it won't rotate while tightening. Also, don't put lug nuts on hand tight and walk away from the wheel cause you are likely to forget.
  10. There is a neat trick I learned to keep from turning the cam shafts while taking loose or tightening the cam gear bolt. - Find a large socket that fits snuggly in the large holes of the cam gear. - Attach breaker bar - Find socket that fits cam gear bolt. - Attach ratchet/breaker bar. - Loosening Right Cam Gear (as facing engine): * Insert large socket into hole of cam gear closest to 3o'clock. * Aim breaker bar towards the 9o'clock position and to go just below the cam bolt * Put cam gear bolt socket with ratchet/breaker on cam gear bolt. Ratchet/breaker arm to go towards 9o'clock also, but above other breaker. * Push down on ratchet/breaker with cam bear bolt socket and pull up a breaker with large socket. * The breaker with large socket needs to hit the side of the cam gear socket for this to work. The closer to the bolt head end the better (i.e less chance to flip the cam gear socket off the bolt head. - Loosening Left Left Cam Gear * Same as Right except positions are flipped and the large socket breaker arm goes above the cam gear bolt head. - Tightening Either Gear * Same positions as loosening, but position of larger socket breaker arm is swapped. If below for loosening than above for tightening and vice versa. It's been a few years since I actually did this so I'm going from memory and figuring it out in my head. I know it worked much better than trying wedge something against the thin housing as I think the service manual suggested.
  11. https://www.facebook.com/groups/Florida4x4/ It's a closed group but I haven't seen them turn anyone if you put in the request. I strongly recommend against wheelin alone unless you are already very familiar with terrain you are going to be covering.
  12. Earlier 95 and before have low gearing so they rev pretty high at highway speeds. Always wanted a 6th gear if possible. I was told by an Xterra guy that doing the knock sensor relocation can gain you a 1 or 2 mpg. I know these things are notorious for malfunctioning or incorrectly think there is a knock. Also, I'd strongly suggest looking into replacing the O2 sensor. It helped mine, it still smells rich but not as bad.
  13. ^ Yeah what he said, especially compression rod (aka tension rod, strut rod) bushings. See this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32546-how-to-replace-strut-rod-bushings/ If these have never been replaced in the life of the vehicle there is a good chance they are bad. Also, when it's jacked up make sure one brake isn't dragging more than the other.
  14. Where do you scrub on 31's? The only place I have had problems with 31s on stock suspension was at full lock the front tire would rub the frame some.

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