headpeace

So I guess I really do have to scape off my www,nissanpathfinders.com sticker this time . All in the name of progress, right?

you all think I could use castrol multi import ATF in my 93 without harm, I've got about 7 quarts in the garage http://www.castrol.c...ntentId=7028224

4X4PARTS.com has both a 3" body lift and multiple different suspension lift kits available Body Lift: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-inch-body-lift-p-5496.html

any updates??

Welcome! Nice lookin ride.

thanks for the clarification B

nevermind my previous post, they would both be the same as far as servicing the bearings go 5523 is correct. To service the bearings the hubs must come off but the bearings are not in the hubs

but not if they're cold.... I couldn't resist

maybe take the fill plug and the drain plug out, get one of those tiny maglites and try to see in there and fish it out with a wire clothes hanger or something

junkyard which part is broken, part of the oil pressure sending unit or part of the wire that runs to it?

I'm with him ^, if it's a bad part they should make it right. Ask for a manager, take them out to the parking lot and show them with your meter that it's not charging correctly.

I seem to remember someone (Simon?) saying the maxima alt wouldn't start charging until you get up to like 2000 rpm, maybe soemone else will chime in here that knows more about this. I do know 19 volts is NOT right, that is not good.

why don't you just put the BL on? THat would save alot of unnecessary trimming if you'll be doin it anyway

look sweet, what size are they?

try a R51

here's ouachita national forest trails ONF Trails And there is a map just like this one available online too for the Ozark national forest, I just happened to have this one pulled up in another window. Google it, it's not too hard to find. I was actually checking out some trails on the ozark map around clarksville a couple of weeks ago. Edit: Oops, I just clicked my link and realized it's the east side of the ONF, there is a map for the west side too, that would be closer to you.

I'll second that, I killed my power antenna after it froze in a ice storm. Now it just sits at the half way point and doesn't move at all

I copied this from another forum, it was originally called the TK1 mod. I think this is what hoohaa (grassroots) is doing but I could be wrong. I personally would just get the grassroots one cuz my fab skills to do something of this nature and do it correct are lacking. Here you go: This was copied from N4w I believe...written BY TK1 OK here's the deal. Parts required: 2x 5/8 bore ss rod end bearing teflon lined McMastercarr P/N 63215K38. 2x 5/8 I.D. spherical(tapered)washer male half McMastercarr P/N 91131A080. 1x 5/8 x 4" grade 8 bolt, lock washer and castle nut. Assortment of 5/8 spacers. cotter pins. 1.) Grind or Machine the weld off of the top until you see a line indicating where the parts separate. 2.) Tap the bushing pin with a hammer until it pops out. If you have to hit it too hard you need to grind more. 3.) Bore one side .500 inch deep to .001 inch less than the O.D. of the bearing. the bearings I used are 1.1875 O.D. (you will need the bearings before you start machining) 4.) Bore the other side .500 inch deep to .001 inch less than the O.D. of the bearing. this should leave a shelf in the middle approx .250 thick. 5.) After you bore both sides you'll be left with the afore mentioned shelf. the hole in the shelf is approxamatly .722 inch in diameter, this needs to be bored to 1.000 inch. 6.) You will need some 5/8 in spacers. these are like washers but have a smaller O.D. I got mine at Lowes. you need to stack a couple to get about .125 inch thickness. 7.) Put your bearings in the freezer for a few hours. 8.) Take one bearing and put it in your centerlink. Make sure it goes in strait, it should slide right in. When the bearing and the centerlink come to the same temp the bearing will be press fit. 9.) Put the bolt through the bearing and put your spacers over the bolt so that they are in the middle where the shelf is. 10.) Put the other bearing in. 11.) You will need to drill the mounting hole in your idler arm out to 5/8. 12.) Connect the centerlink to the idler arm using a 5/8 x 4" grade 8 bolt. Place one of the tapered washers on the bolt with the flat side facing the bolt head. The bolt in from the top. Place another tapered washer on the other side with the flat side facing the idler arm. slide the bolt through the idler arm and put a lock washer and castle nut on. 13.) drill the bolt for a cotter pin when you know the location that it needs to be. DISCLAIMER The maching requires a boring head and a mill to do, also it must be properly centered and square. Unless you have the proper equipment and machining knowledge let a machinist do it for you. You are responsible for you own vehicle modifications and subsequent consequences. This modification is working fantastic on my vehicle but I take no responsibilty for how it performs on yours

4x4parts as far as customer service. You could try Steevo maybe, I think he did or still does sell those

go with the 3" BL.

it fits, but its tight

Thanks all for the help, it turned out to be the fusible link at the pos battery connection. One of the wires broke off at the connection. Checked the dealer, they don't stock them anymore but he could order one to be here wednesday for $30.00. No thanks, came home cut the wire and soldered it back in, works great. I am about to head to the JY to try and find one or some that are in better shape though. Thanks again

No radio, nothing at all. The first thing I did was pull both connections at the battery and clean them because I thought it was just some corrosion, unfortunately that's not the case.

I have 12.5 volts off my battery, but no power to anything else. My headlights are wired directly to the battery via the headlight relay mod and they work fine. Otherwise no power anywhere else, no lights on the dash, no blinker lights. Won't start at all. Is there a main relay or fuse I can check??