XPLORx4

Hehe. AC stands for Automotive customizers. Their website is 4x4parts.com. The 2” coil spring lift is in the suspension submenu

The SGII plugs into the OBDII port. Unless add-on sensors can be linked to the OBDII, I don’t think it’ll support them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure what level of detail you’re wanting, but I really like the simplicity of the Scan-Gauge II which i have plugged into my 97’s OBDII port all the time. It doesn’t display graphs or anything fancy, but it displays the essentials. Besides reading and resetting codes, it also computes instantaneous mpg, average mpg per trip, mpg per tank, and distance remaining until empty. ATF temp is not reported over OBDII, but engine coolant temp, voltage, throttle position, engine load, and a variety of other useful info can be shown. I have the unit mounted over the center AC registers for easy viewing. By not using a Bluetooth OBDII reader and an app, my phone is free to use for other purposes while driving (maps, Pandora, phone calls, etc). I still have a Bluetooth OBDII dongle with an app, but I only use it for advanced diagnostics, not for regular use.

I am not familiar with the Volvo fan relay, so unfortunately I don't think I can really help too much with your electrical issues. However, I am curious as to what you are trying to achieve by installing an electric cooling system fan that reduces the radiator efficiency by 20% (due to some of it not being shrouded).

The 4x4 driveshaft is 3 pieces plus 2 u-joints. One piece bolts to the pinion flange, one piece is the driveshaft itself, and the other piece is the slip yoke which I sets into the transfer case.

Als, your brake line has way too much tension on it. Remove the caliper or reposition the hub so that it’s not as stretched.

I would advise replacing the whole cv axle. The connecting shaft should be held in the outer joint with a clip or other type of retainer and should be well seated and sealed by the cv boot. The clip seems to have failed and allowed the shaft to pull away from the cv joint itself.

I can’t confirm the part number needed for 2” lift springs, but you do need to remove the coil springs fully to install the bags and to drill the correct diameter hole in the lower spring mount to feed the air tube through. Failure to drill the hole wide enough will pinch the end of the bag and tube and create a leak. If you want to use 60742 with your 2” lift, use them with the factory bump stops also in place.

At this point, I’m guessing your R50 is worth only about $2500-$4000. The 5-6% error in the odometer won’t really have much effect on mileage for resale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By the way, if you’re running larger tires, your speedometer reads slower than actual, which means your odometer reports lower than actual. Therefore, your true MPG is better than what you get by computing odometer trip distance divided by gallons filled since last fill up.

To restore your odometer accuracy, get a speedometer recalibrator. I have mine set to within 0.5mph with 285-75-16 tires. A Dakota Digital SGI-5 is a good choice. I think the Yellowbox is the easiest to install. http://yellr.com/yb_home.htm

Why did you have to weld two pieces in?

If the distributor won't rotate any further clockwise to get timing correct and you're still 4 degrees low, you should move it anti clockwise by one tooth to give you a more centered range of adjustment.

The distributor does sound like it was reinstalled one tooth off. The gear on the bottom of the distributor is helical, so the distributor shaft will rotate as you drop the distributor into place. I would note the position of the rotor, pull the distributor up to disengage the gear, rotate it slightly, then drop it back down so that the rotor is in a different position. A timing light will help determine if you're 15 BTDC.

I don't think any of the wires you've found on those boxes/relays on the driver's side feed the passenger tail lamp/turn signal. I could be mistaken, however. If you are looking for a definitive answer, you can use a multimeter or test light to see which connector or wire gets +12v when you activate the right turn signal.