XPLORx4

Try checking page EL-84 and following in the service manual, linked below https://www.dropbox.com/s/pafywl7qwwmpj0t/EL.pdf?dl=0 If you can not determine which wire disabled the tach, you could remove the cluster, pop off the clear plastic cover and remove the needle from the tach.

If the light says “Service Engine Soon”, this is called the Malfunction Indicator Light and is triggered by a fault in systems that affect driveability and emissions. The error code can be read by an OBDII scanner. Usually disconnecting the battery resets the error stored in the powertrain control module unless there is a pretty severe malfunction. This would typically be observed by poor driveability.

The R50 front grille, fenders, hood, and headlights were given a “facelift” in late 1999 and this was introduced as model year 1999.5. It’s likely that a fender that is advertised to fit up to 2004 models will not fit your 1998.

The tire pressure indicated on the door jamb only applies to stock tires and wheels, stock suspension, and stock weight. If you change any of these, throw that tire pressure recommendation out the window. I haven't run the doorjamb pressure (26psi) on my Pathy in over 20 years. The best way to determine ideal tire pressure for your rig is to do a chalk test.

You can replace the arms with the wheels on the ground, but it's pretty tight under there and it'll be hard work. No matter how you choose to do it, replace ONE link at a time. You will likely need a ratchet strap to help move the axle to line up the bolt holes.

Sounds like the ignition system thinks the transmission is not in Park. Check fuses first.

Yes. You first need to remove the dash bezel (2 screws on the bottom, and tension clips above the vents). Then pull off the fan speed and temp control knobs. The faceplate pops off to reveal the bulbs.

Yes, I have done it. All of the instrument cluster and AC control lights in mine have been converted to white LED (which ends up looking slightly bluish due to the color temperature.) They dim just like the OEM bulbs. I think I got mine at superbrightleds.com. Sorry, it was so long ago that I forgot which bulbs I used, but you will want to choose bulbs that have the greatest number of LEDs mounted omnidirectionally.

What are the conditions under which the vibration occurs? Vibration could be caused by worn U-joints. It could also be caused by the slip yoke not being sufficiently engaged with the splines of the output shaft. This would be more likely with a large suspension lift. It's not too hard to remove the rear driveshaft. Before you do, wiggle the front of the driveshaft near the slip yoke. If there's a lot of play, that could indicate the slip yoke needs to be slid over the output shaft more fully. You'd need to lengthen the driveshaft or somehow make a pinion yoke driveshaft spacer to fix it. Check for worn U-joints by rotating the driveshaft and watching for slop in the U-joints. To remove the driveshaft, remove 4 17mm nuts/bolts holding the driveshaft to the pinion yoke on the rear differential. Once the driveshaft is free from the pinion yoke, you should be able to easily slide it out of the transfer case.

It’s 3 pieces. Slip yoke, main shaft, and pinion yoke.

I would fix the wiring to your cigarette lighter so that it gets a full 12 volts, then just install one of the devices mentioned above.

I am guessing that there is something at the inner bearing or bearing seal that is not fully seated, preventing the CV axle from fully sliding into the spindle. If you've already got the knuckle reinstalled, it's easier to remove the CV axle from the spindle by removing the bolts on the lower control arm/subframe, while keeping the knuckle bolted to the strut. In this way you can slide the CV back and forth to see how it's hanging up. Does it have the same problem on both sides or just one side?

I take it that your sorted out your engine and front axle issues, huh? How did that go?

Xterra WD22 used the 3.3 until 2004. Pathfinder R50 until 2000.

Are you installing the factory drive flanges or aftermarket manual hubs? What parts did you remove or unbolt to pull the axle? The FSM recommends removing the fasteners attaching the subframe to the lower control arm. This involves less disassembly than unbolting the strut and knuckle.