XPLORx4

OME/LR combo refers to Old Man Emu + Land Rover springs. However, that's of little help without information about whether those springs lifted, lowered, or kept the ride height. The mention of part numbers or vendor information would also be helpful.

Hawairish, your observations confirm something I learned a few years ago when I replaced a CV axle with a replacement I bought either at O'Reilly or Autozone... or possibly RockAuto. I cannot recall whether the axle was a Duralast-branded part or whatever brand O'Reilly sells. I have typically bought CV axles locally rather than waiting for parts to ship from Rockauto due to the urgency of the repair. Anyway, during the replacement, I noticed that the inner cup on the previous CV was different than on the replacement axle. The wall thickness of each of the cups was different, and the bearing sizes were also different. I believe that the thinner-walled cup with larger bearings allowed more operating angle before binding, whereas the other axle whose inner CV cup had thicker walls and smaller bearings had binding at a lower operating angle. I was able to check the wall thickness and bearing sizes by popping the grease cap off the back of the inner cup. Unfortunately, it's hard to tell just from brand/part number/new/reman whether you'll get a thin-walled inner CV or a thick-walled inner CV. Anyway, if I recall, I think I may have returned the thick-walled CV axle back to the store I bought it from (eg. Autozone) and got one from the other store (eg. O'Reilly Auto), which had thinner walls.

Measure the distance from the end of the pinion flange to the mounting surface of the third member on each. I don’t know what the sensor is for, but if the third member dimensions match, I think you should be ok.

I think you can just get a replacement bushing.

Your 4wd system will apply at most 50% torque to the front driveshaft. Because the front differential is open, the wheel with the least traction will get the most torque. In your situation, the drivers wheel probably had lots of traction and the passenger wheel did not. The open diff transferred engine power to the passenger wheel. what kind of tires do you have?

I used to run 265/75R16 BFG MT on my Ultra Rogue 175 wheels, 16x8 with 10mm offset, and they fit with my 2" lift. The worry I had was how much clearance is there between the tire should and strut. I do know that 15x8 wheels with 32x11.5R15 tires need no more than 4" backspacing. When I upsized to 285/75R16, I did have to install wheel spacers to clear the strut.

The early R50 models were specced kind weird. The diff ratios weren’t based on the transmission but instead on the equipped tire size. For the 97 model year, at least in the US, the XE and LE were equipped with 235/70R15 tires, with the steel 15x6 chrome wheels on the XE, and spoked 15x6.5” alloy wheels on the LE. Both had 4.363 diff gearing. Because of the smaller tire size, they had a different steering rack with more throw that gave them a tighter turning radius. The SE models had 265/70R15 tires, with slightly lower diff gearing (4.636:1) to account for the taller tires. They also had a steering rack with less throw, resulting in a wider turning radius. If you want to install bigger tires, you will have no problems fitting 30x9.50R15 on the chrome wheels. You might even squeeze 31x10.50 on those wheels but you might have slight rubbing on the right inner wheel well, especially when turning fully right, because of the combination of wheel width, wheel offset, tighter turning radius, and larger tire size. I know you’re probably on a tight budget, but if you so plan to continue modding this R50, I would advise running some inexpensive 30” tires for the next year or so while you save up for new 16x8 wheels and tires. Unless you do a lot of fender liner trimming, you won’t be able to fit 265/75R16 tires without a 2” lift. I have owned my 97 LE since 1998, and I went through all of these same issues, but I had to do so without the benefit of the internet. I spent a lot of money on trial and error getting my rig to its current configuration.

Hmmm that sure looks like an XE to me but if you have the original window sticker that says SE, I guess you have a rare unicorn. SE models typically had alloy wheels and black fender flares and chrome bumpers. Any way, check the door placard and the vin plate on the firewall. You should be able to easily fit 265/75R15 or 31x10.5R15 on those wheels. If the gearing is 4.36, you’ll notice an immediate reduction in acceleration performance. The speedometer could also read too slow afterwards. Ideally you should probably replace the wheels with 16x8 or 17x8 wheels and upsize to a tire size in the 31” diameter range until you lift it.

The 97 SE models should have been equipped with 265/70R15 tires on 6-spoke aluminum alloy wheels. If you have chrome wheels and 235s you may not have an SE. You may have an XE. Check a couple of things: what is the tire size on the door jamb? look on the vin placard on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor and check for an axle code HG46 or HG43. HG46 is 4.636:1 final drive ratio and HG43 is 4.363:1 ratio. 97 Pathfinders equipped from the factory with 235 series tires (usually XE and LE) have 4.363 gears They also have a steering rack with a little more throw than models equipped with 265 series tires (usually SE).

You must be using a spacer lift. With a 2" coil spring lift, there is no binding or locking of the CV joints when extended all the way, because the max extension isn't changed from stock (unlike spacers, which allow 2" further extension). Manual hubs have to be engaged when you're off-roading, and you will probably break a CV joint if you extend the front suspension all the way driving on moguled terrain.

I drove my 97 with a bad knock sensor for 15 years, so I think you’ll be ok.

I have this adapter and OBD Fusion on my iOS devices. iKKEGOL iCar 2 Mini OBD2 OBD II WiFi Car Diagnostic Scan Tool for IOS iPhone iPad PC with Switch Auto Sleep(Black+Blue） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFFG1EO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tAdGm9tYfi2pl

I did this already. To do so, run a 16awg wire pair from inside the cabin where your switch is mounted through the firewall. I route my wires through the diamond shaped plate where the clutch cylinder would have been attached. Run the wires (inside a wire loom for protection) along the cowl beside the brake lines and down to the fuse box behind the battery. First, pop out the fuel pump fuse. Turn the ignition to ON and using a voltmeter, check which one of the fuse terminals is hot. The non-hot side goes to the fuel pump. You will be cutting the wire on that side of the fuse later. Turn off the ignition and replace the fuse. Unbolt the fuse box. Remove the alternator wire from the stud on the fuse box. You may also need to remove the positive battery cable to give you more room to work on the fuse box. Use small flat screwdrivers to pop open the clips holding the upper and lower halves of the fuse box together. Locate the fuel pump fuse. Cut the FP fuse wire you identified earlier and connect the ends of your switch wires to the the cut wire. You should use male/female solderless connectors on the OEM cut wire in case you want to undo the mod later. Route your wires along the existing wire bundle, then snap the top and bottom halves together. Put it al back together and you’re done!

There’s likely a malfunction with the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Enjoying a 2wd for offroad use all depends on the difficulty of the trails you drive on. I would recommend avoiding all mud, and don’t drive on any roads that require steep, slow climbing since you don’t have low range gearing. Carry with you some means of self-recovery in case you get stuck. That means a d-ring shackles, tow strap or two, a hi-lift jack perhaps, and maybe some MaxTrax. Air compressor and tire deflators also.