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KevinKernaghan

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    White 1995 Pathfinder 5sp 2WD, in terrific condition! I searched for one for years because I knew it would be a nearly indestructible and highly road-trip-worthy SUV with decent gas mileage and great styling. As of yet, it hasn't disappointed, even with exhaust manifolds ticking.
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Do Not Go Off-Road
  • Year
    1996

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  1. Well, if you're driving a 90-95, Nissan implemented the GREATEST FEATURE EVER to stop you from wasting money on scan tools and mechanics with the exact same scan tools: Diagnostics are under the passenger seat! Woohoo! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=diagnostics Unless, that is, you were looking for performance-related diagnostics, in which case, I have no idea what to tell you, there may be no way to hook up a reader.
  2. Is this the ground? Because if so, well, there's some kind of problem... And if it isn't, well, I bet it was still important... If not, let me know where that ground is, since I've now messed with all the door/hood/hatch switches and everything seems to be working fine...
  3. This post has been dead for a while so I know it may take some time to get questions answered, but... My alarm is finally going crazy! I've been trying to find symptoms like it on here, but no luck. I have no keyfob and have just been passive-arming for the last year or so. Finally today, after a long road trip, I get home and my car alarm starts going off 3 to 10 minutes AFTER it is fully locked and beeps "armed" 30 seconds later. What could be causing it to have such a delayed reaction? It's not even in "contact" mode, the switch is in the middle position. I checked all the doors with the dome light and they're all closing with no flickering, and I raised the hood switch up, but it still went off after 10 minutes or so. What's the best way to test and make sure the hood switch is functioning properly? Can I bypass the hood switch so that the alarm system thinks the hood is always closed? Kevin
  4. Actually, it's just about the newest WD21 you could get your hands on, a 1995. I blame it on rapid temperature changes, a dry climate, and dust particles infiltrating every nook and cranny of my car (I do take care of my baby, it's just that Lubbock really, really blows) Anyway, it's a nice long crack running longitudinally almost perfectly above the steering wheel. I was wondering if this had happened to any of you, and if you had any interesting fixes or solutions. I probably don't sound like I treat my car very well, but I like to think of myself as a real perfectionist about the quality of the interior, which I have found so far on my Pathy to be extremely well-assembled. Thanks, Kevin
  5. I've got it, for now, running off of an add-a-fuse going into my dome light section in the fuse panel. It takes really minimal power to keep the memory active, so I don't think I should run into much trouble, but it does bug me that I had to go to this much trouble already. Oh well...it works!
  6. I need to find a constant 12V power supply under the center of the dash behind the radio somewhere, to splice in some units for satellite radio. The cigarette lighter, apparently, isn't of this type. Anyone have any ideas? I guess if nothing else, I can do an add-a-fuse on the fuse panel...let me know if you have any suggestions! Kevin
  7. Oh, this poor Pathfinder... On the other hand, at least, because it IS a Pathfinder, it's life is surely not over as though it were any other car, however, leaving it in the hands of these guys is probably not such a swell idea. Jumping Nissan Video sigh...too many video cameras in the hands of too many people...
  8. Yes! That is one of my favorite features of the WD21 Pathfinder: onboard diagnostics. No more paying some guy to hook up a circuit to your car to tell you what your problems are without actually fixing anything! Somewhere on this forum is a "pinned" list of the procedures regarding those blinking LEDS and the trouble codes you can read from them if anything is wrong. Otherwise, if you think you put the idle speed back close to where it was when you began, then everything should be alright. Keep playing with it to get the idle speed into a smooth range, I believe mine indicates on the tachometer at around 800 or 900 RPM when the engine is fully warmed up. Sorry the searching didn't work, the only thing I would suggest for answers is to search "ECU" or "ECU codes" for more information. Enjoy!
  9. I think 88Path is right, it may just be bad gas...I'll wait a one or two months and see what happens on the next tankfuls...hopefully some major improvement
  10. Well, a couple of times my battery connections have crapped out and I found that if I just took the connectors off and scraped away at the terminals with a wire brush, things would work again. One of these days I really need to go for an Optima battery and just be done with the whole mess entirely...
  11. Let's see, my Pathy is not configured for off-roading as much as the rest of yours, and I also don't live in such a cold climate to need all the snow stuff, but I try to keep it self-sustainable in the event of a mechanical problem: - Chilton's guide (don't leave home without it!) - Mini-Maglite - Giant Maglite (with dead batteries, really more appropriate as a hammer/weapon) - Multitool - $7 Wal-Mart basic socket set (the driver probably isn't well-built enough to survive more than one emergency) - Bungee cords - Jumper cables - Wire brush - 4-way tire iron (locks up nicely to the spare tire carrier) - Extra belts leftover from when I replaced all three at once (I know two of them are only an inch different in length and are probably interchangeable, but I forget which two...but I suppose if you were in a REAL tight jam you might just have to sacrifice power steering for an alternator...) - Assorted fuses and junk (though Nissan, in their occasionally extremely awesome forward-thinking, provided us with a few fuses inside the fuse panel door) -A bunch of old blankets and sheets, to protect the cargo floor and protect me in the event that I have to get under it in an awkward place. Almost all of this stuff fits in the commodious pre-airbag-era glovebox, and in the amplifier access panels in the back (which is probably stupid, I'm concerned I might accidentally pull too hard on the jumper cables and rip out my taillight wires so I just be careful). I still need to get a portable air compressor, because those are just handy. They make a few that take forever to use, but are at least small enough to squirrel away under the drivers' seat... OH and a golf club under the rear seats. I actually have no idea what that's for, but hey, who really knows what anything is for on these newfangled automobiles?
  12. I recently replaced vacuum tubes leading in and out of the carbon canister and vacuum tubes attached to the brass circular sponge-sandwich object near the throttle (I have absolutely no idea what that thing is, but there was a broken vacuum tube on it), and my highway mileage, once set at about 300-320 miles per tank, jumped up to 400 - 420 miles per tank. Now, however, my city mileage, which was once 260-280 mpt, has dropped down to maybe 200-240 mpt! What's the deal? Has anybody else experienced anything like thks before? I mean, don't get me wrong, I'm very satisfied with the increases in highway mileage, only I simply use my Pathy in highway driving much less than I do in stop-and-go traffic. Let me know if you have any suggestions! It's a 2WD (blasphemy!) without a roof rack or running boards, but with a spare tire carrier.
  13. Well, I tested it cold and it spun pretty freely...so I suppose I should look elsewhere. My "coolant temperature gauge" (if you can call it that) only pegs after hours of driving at about a quarter of the scale...this is why I wish car companies would give us actual temperature readings instead of dummy gauges(though now I think most cars have digital displays that can tell this information). So I suppose it's probably most likely a thermostat issue; either that or maybe Pathys just have a really competent cooling system? How long do yours take to warm up (measured to where the heater starts to blow warm air after a cold overnight rest), and where on the "gauge" do they finally land?
  14. Interestingly enough, I HAVE occasionally noticed a loud school-bus-like whooshing sound at low speeds and high revs...I guess I may have just answered my own question... Are they rebuildable or should I find a new one?
  15. My '95 has been very slow to warm up lately. How do I test if the cooling fan clutch is working properly? I figure this is the first step I should take before I dig through the entire engine to get to the thermostat... I searched but couldn't find anything about the stock cooling fan...
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