90seven

Does it come with the kit?

265/70R15 is the stock tires on an SE.That's ~30.3in. if I remember.

87 octane is fine. Try adding a can of RESTORE to your oil at oil changes.

I had this same problem with my steering wheel. When I turned left the wheel slanted left but when I turned hard-right, thew wheel would straighten out until the next left turn. When I crawled under, I coulded find where it could've slipped off to, only to realize that the little pieces of junk I was brushing away was actually the disinigrated bushing. The other piece was in good condition but I replaced both anyway. Pretty pricey for a piece of rubber. Its a dealership part. But then again, IMO, you should always buy OEM boots and bushings.

Aren't the brakes self adjusting? Just put hit the brakes in reverse.. and viola! Adjusted..

Most places sell the rear drum replacement kit that comes with all the springs. Even if they don't need replacement, I usually just do them anyway. How often am I going to open up that drum? Probably not for a long while. When's the last time you changed your rear brakes anyway? The rears usually last a lot longer that the fronts. I remember when I was hammering the crap out of the drum waiting for it to come loose, only to find out that I still had the parking brake engaged from when I jacked it up. What a fool.

The stock alloy wheel specs are 4" Backspacing and +20 Offset.

But, but, but.... The factory alarm will be set off as soon as the timer expires, when the alarm is supposed to arm. Usually around 30 seconds or so. I was wondering why my alarm was going off every few minutes when I brought it home from a shop. I figured out that the mechanic had placed the hood prop in the wrong place forcing the hood upward and not fully allowing it to be depressed.

3.75 is what I have on my wheels (15x8). Rubbing isn't too bad, I had to trim about 4 inches from the bottom of the inner wheel well to not rub during turns. No biggie.

For those of you with Warns installed, are you using the Warn bolts that came with the kits, or have you used high grade bolts? statikiz *Note: It is recommended by most to use high grade bolts in place of the studs and lock nuts provided by Warn, due to the number of people who have reported that the original Warn studs brake over time. I'll be getting these installed in the next week and was wondering if I should look for replacement bolts. I'm going to have 4WheelParts install them. I don't have the time, nor the tools. (The horror stories with the dust cap, make me worried that I'll give up )

I've had my Viper Alarm/Remote Starter for about 2 years now, and I'm happy. Every once in a while the stock alrm goes off, but that's only if you don't lock the car right away. As long as you arm the Viper before the stock alarm arms you're good... I think. The issue with the reotee starters installed on a manual is one thing, but what about installing the remote starter on a vehicle with a chipped key as like my 2001 Alty. Do the later model R50s have chipped keys?

Check your hood pin switch. Sometimes that's a problem.

I beleive this is refered to the "death wobble" as I read earlier. I'm experiencing this as well. I would have added the link, but it's a bit difficult using my Blackjack II. I'm sure you can find it or someone will be nice enough to find it for you.

Silverstars are great. I noticed a huge difference. Very white compared to stock bulbs. I love them. Luminix will be my next bulbs though.

Hafa Adai.

I did that too. I only had the Check Engine light come on for about 2 days.

Remember to twist and NOT pull.

Due to gas prices these days I started letting my wife take the Pathy to work since she works closer to home than I do. I now drive her Altima. One her way to work yesterday she stopped by Cheveron on Blue Diamond and Rainbow in Las Vegas and someone had approached her when he saw a sticker I had on it. She was explaining that a man had asked her if it was a " '97 " and she was confused. LOL Just wondering who you were. Where do you stay?

Unless you're driving your Pathy on race track or speeding down the Lions Back, your stock rotors should be sufficient. As said, ODO will be off a minor bit. Other than that, its really is unoticable. I, personally, am going to revert back to stock wheels and 30s for the sake of better fuel economy.

Same here except my Pathy is running around 170K. 3.75 quarts in and out. I guess the VGs are just that damn good.

You're speedo will be off rouhly 2-3MPH slower than traveling speed at 60MPH. OR When I drive 1 mile in my Altima my Pathy only shows .9 miles. I know that much.

96-2004 are unibody. Nissan returned to body-on-frame for 2005 but soon going back to uni-body. *Sigh*

Hmm... a lower price.

Not really sure why the wheels rub, the 4" backspacing is the stock backspacing. Then again, the wheel is an inch wider than stock. My wheels are 15x8 but I have it with a 3.75" backspacing which pushes it outward. Rub is non-existant. I don't think it would be much of a problem if its not that bad of a rub.

I'm from Guam, but I now live in Las Vegas.