trenton163
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Posts posted by trenton163
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On 1/12/2021 at 3:11 AM, Slartibartfast said:
The bolt in the middle is the only one holding the balancer to the crank. The little bolts hold the crank pulley to the balancer. Mark the orientation of the crank pulley to the balancer before removing it so you don't put it back together in a different orientation and lose your ignition timing marks! It's been a while but I think I removed all the bolts, got the pulley out of the way, and then bolted the duck's foot puller to the balancer.
Thanks for the reply! I guess I am unclear as to the reason for taking them apart. Unless I am missing something, it seems like it would be better to keep them bolted together and just remove both as a whole? As for the timing marks, don't you align them with the mark on the cover and there is a key on the crank to keep the marks aligned so as long as they are set correctly before you remove them they should install them same way? Sorry if I am asking the same question over again.
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Hi Everyone,
I have potentially a dumb question. I am getting ready to change my timing belt. It will be the biggest item I have done to date and I want to make sure I know everything before I start.
On the VG30E I know you need a crank puller to take the harmonic balancer off but do you need to take all the bolts off as well or just the big crank pulley bolt?
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Hi Everyone,
It has been awhile but I wanted to update this and follow up with a few more questions. I did the following last weekend:
- Pumped out all the old gas from the tank. I went through the pump so I could see the inside of the tank. Since it was stored in a Garage in CA there was no rust.
- Bled the Brakes and greased the caliper pins. Thanks to everyone for suggesting this, the brake fluid was really old and I definitely felt a difference replacing it!
- Changed the power steering fluid,
- Oil change,
- New battery,
After a little hesitation she started right up with no warning lights
. I pumped up the tires and drove it around a few blocks with no issues.
Here is where things go bad and I need some advice.
I went go get a smog test so I could pay all the back fees and it passed all the tests except for the last one. It was a Evap pressure test. It looks like there is a leak between the gas tank and the charcoal canister. The Smog guy said that it usually is a bad fuel filler neck and this is a common failure for older cars. Does anyone know of a common fail point to check first?
The next question is a bout the doors. I know that I have the common door lock timer fail as it locks itself a lot even with the key in the ignition. My problem is that I cant unlock the rear passenger doors, I can see the pin try and move up and down when I try and lock and unlock but is feels stuck. Are you able to take to door Panel off with the door closed or do I need to get a slim jim to open it?
I know that some of this may sound like I should just go out and try it myself; but the truck is about a 7 drive away from me so I have to try and remote diagnose problems first and then try them out.
Thanks again everyone, any advice is welcome!
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Awesome job! Keep up the great work and keep us updated!
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There is a lot of videos online. try searching for a xterra or frontier as they will have a similar process
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Awesome, thanks for all of the info everyone. I will most likey start this whole process in a couple of months once I get enough funds together. I will let everyone know if I succeed haha!
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Thanks for all of the info everyone! I definitely will take all of your advice. As far as the fuel goes, is best to pump it out through the cap or do I need to remove the pump? Which I believe is under the rear cargo area carpet? I really do not want to drop the tank but I will if I have to.
Thanks again everyone.
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Hi Everyone,
It's been awhile since I have been on here. Since my last activity on here I have moved, gone to college and started my career. All the while my pathfinder has been siting in my garage back home waiting to be resurrected...
I has been sitting in an enclosed garage for about 8 years. these are the things that I know that I am going to do to get it back on the road:
-Replace all fluids, Oil, ATF, PS, PB
-Remove old gas, (I foolishly didn't put in any fuel stabilizer)
-Replace Battery
-Possibly new tires? ( they where almost brand new last time I drove it and they are still holding air, but there may be flat spots)
Can anybody suggest anything that I maybe forgetting or overlooking. Any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks
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Cool. Thanks for the help. I have looked online for the parts. I can see that I can buy the regulator separately so there has to be a way to take them apart. I just can't figure it out.
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Okay, so my drivers side rear window regulator broke( 92 pathfinder). I have gone to junk yards and ebay and have replaced it with 3 of them and all have broken on me.
I now have one where the regulator itself works, but the motor is crap, and another where the motor is great but the track is broke. I have tried to switch them but all I got was a busted finger.
Does any one know how to switch these? I really don't want to take it to a body shop.
Also, has anyone else had any issues with the plastic bits breaking on them? The first one that I had worked great but the plastic clips that hold it together and stop it from raising and lowering broke.
If anyone can help I would be much appreciated
Thanks Trenton
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So I was under my truck today and I noticed that my steering gear is leaking (a small amount) of fluid from the front. The whole front drivers side seems to be covered in oil/fluid. I think that this is a really old leak that I just haven't really noticed.
I will try to get some pics posted, but I was wondering if anyone knows what it could be and/or how hard it is to fix?
I was looking on rockauto and a seal kit is like 30 bucks, I'm just wondering how hard it would be to do?
Thanks Trenton
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Worst part, they moved the rear door handles
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My front ones didn't spray, I replaced the pump (it was filled with build up) and now the front work great. My rear does the same thing as yours, So I would make sure that all your pumps are clean. If they are dirty you can run some clr through them and see if that helps. I didn't work with mine so I spent 20 bucks and got a new one! Good luck.
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You are welcome, glad you got it done!!
How did you finally get them loose?
B
I used a lot Of pb blaster, in series with the impact wrench. It just took a long time for them to finally break free.
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Slow down in the corners
it's the design of the IFS, when you're in a corner your front inside wheel leans WAY in like this --> / or this \ depending on which way you're turning So just the inside edge of the tire is literally dragging on the ground...But where's the fun in that?
Alignment will help but its ifs and as u corner they will be like / / this or \ \ that but the toe is what gets messed up when you crank...along with camber so it should help a lot with the issue...also if your locked they will chirp...also how bald are the tires
How did you know I running on doughnuts! haha! Will the new strut bushings affect it at all?
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I am in the process of a front end rebuild ans so far I have replaced the all of the tierod ends torsion bars and strut rods. I am going to take it in for a alignment but before I do I have a question.
When I installed my torsion bars I tightened them until I got the ride hight where I want it ( about 31.75 at the lip and about .5" at the upper bump stop). But now when I go around turns at around 40 mph or more my tires squeal really loud.
So my question is that will a alignment fix the problem or should I back off the T bars a little? I really dont want to as now the truck is level and everything. Any advice would be great.
Thanks
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I did it! Thanks for all the help guys!
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Dont quote me on it, but I think I remember on here one time that it could be a failing alternator. May want to check it out. Mine flicker everyone and a while but I also think that it is the dimmer switch. Good luck.
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Alright thanks for all the help guys, hopefuly I can tackle this project over the weekend.
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Does anyone have any tips on how to get the tension rod off so I can can replace the bushings? I have used a .5" breaker bar and a electric impact wrench and they still wont come off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am going to get a alignment soon and I dont want to have to pay a shop to do something as simple as this.
Thanks, Trenton
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Here is my set up,
I use the "Little Wil" Wilson CB Magnet Mount Antenna. I got it from amazon for 35 bucks, it haas the coaxial cable and I just ran it through the back hatch with the antenna on the roof towards the back. I like being able to take it down if I need to. Works really good for such a short antenna. The fun thing is the PA function, I mounted a trumpet speaker in front of the radiator and ran the wire to the CB through the hole in the firewall for my amp power cord.
I have that same stereo !!
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Okay so I finally got around to taking it apart and I found that the harness that connects the wires to the dome light assembly looks like it could be shot. I will post some pics when I get a chance. Does anyone know how to get a new one? I have looked online and I can't seem to find it.
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I read some where on here that the rear door latch goes bad, could that affect the dome light? The rear works fine. I took the assembly off and everything looks good, changed the fuse and the bulb. any more ideas?
Thanks
How to change your timing belt!
in How-To's
Posted
I see, thanks for the clarification!