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About Calvin

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie
  • Birthday 01/13/1972

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1993 Pathy XE Weapon R filter cat-back hi-flow exhaust JWT S1 cams and heavy springs ported heads and polished chambers bored 40 over balanced/blueprinted oil relocation/kn filter Calmini steering Energy Sus bushings Napa Gold ball joints slotted/crossdrilled front rotors ceramic pads
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  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  1. Calvin

    Misfire after VG30e Rebuild

    Update on the VG30E misfire issue: *Found intake manifold had loosened. Re-torqued to spec *Found Vac leak at fuel pump regulator-fixed. *Tested the fast idle mechanism located at back left of air plenum-working *timing light showed I was 20 Deg BTDC-adjusted to 15 Deg BTDC RESULT: runs very rough on warm up and continues to misfire afterwards. It does get a little better once it's warm.
  2. Calvin

    Misfire after VG30e Rebuild

    Hey...Swapped in inj from used motor. Auto repair shop said injector was working according to their analysis machine. They said the "wavelengths" were correct. Vac leak is my suspicion at this point, or the machine shop screwed up when they put the block/valve train together. I took the timing belt off again and made sure everything was set at the marks before putting it back on. No difference...actually got a little worse than what it was. Should I get a timing light just to verify? If so what kind? Haynes says the timing isn't adjustable. If it was off wouldn't it show??? With all I've done to this thing it should be good and strong and this is really frustrating! The lifters are so loud it sounds like a loud sewing machine goin down the road! Thanks. Calvin
  3. Calvin

    Misfire after VG30e Rebuild

    Hey all...Newbie here (to the forum, not nec the pathy). I've read numerous posts and haven't come across anything like the probs I've got going on. I'll try to keep it brief! Problem rig: 1993 xe manual with about 175k. Oct of 08: Shattered #4 piston rod and piston. Valves left "smilyies" in top of what was left of piston Machine shop said block was ok, but crank had to be reground. Machine shop repairs and work: *bored 40 over/honed *assembled short block with reground crank; orig 5 piston rods and one salvaged from a '94 motor; new pistons; full short block and flywhl balanced; new oil pump; told me block did not need decked *Installed JWT S1 cams and heavy duty springs *new guides and stem seals *ground valves to correct installed height *complete valve job *port/polish What I did: *Assembled and installed engine with new cap, rotor, taylor 8mm wires, ngk plugs Probs I'm having *180 PSI of compression all around except for 130 at #4(the one that orig broke) *runs rich and smells like gas *#2 cylinder fouling plug (black soot) and not firing/hesitation and rough idle/bad mileage *lifters on 2,4,6 clicking loudly! *rear main seal appears to be leaking ECU shows no trouble codes Local shop wasn't able to diagnose any probs except #2 cyl not firing I've swapped injectors, plugs, wires and nothing seems to help. even installed new cap and rotor again. Cleaned MAF and sealed up a couple of bad spots in air intake tube. This seemed to help, as did the new plugs, but it soon returns to missing and hesitation. I plan to test for vac leaks with carb cleaner. Any other ideas greatly appreciated!! New motor has about 900 miles on it.
  4. Calvin

    Changing Sparkplugs

    I've run plats for the last couple of years and I'm gonna swap em out as I'm having misfire issues. Maybe that will solve it. I've heard they foul real easy if your fuel/air mixture isn't right on...

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