Barbecue

That's for the replies guys, I know there have been lots of exhaust threads lately. One more quick question, I've seen on a lot of the cats advertised they have a small air connection pipe on the side, what is that for? I don't think the cat currently on my pathy has one...

Thanks edicer, that's some good advice. I've got another question: does any company manufacture a high flow cat in non-stainless steel (aluminized, or reg steel)? I'd like to weld up the system myself to save some money, but I can't weld stainless (just regular, old steel mig welding). Thanks, -BBQ

Hi everyone, I've got a '91 XE and am looking at building a custom exhaust set-up. I'd like to keep the project as cheap as possible as I'm a do-it-yourself kind of guy and don't want to put too much cash into a higher mileage vechile. My question is about the catalytic converter; I don't want to simply remove the cat, as I would like to keep it %100 legal. I was wondering if I could weld-in a used cat from a larger (v8) vehicle, and whether the larger size would work in the same manner as getting a high-flow cat. Thanks in advance. -BBQ P.S. Who has K&N air filters and likes them? I'm thinking of getting one...

LOL. Weeeaaakkk.

Actually it applies just like regular paint; it may be a tad more viscous, but it's extra thickness is negligable. It comes in aerosol form, but I prefer to brush it on as you can really get it into creases and cover large areas without the need to mask. Speaking of masks, I usually wear one when I paint with this stuff, it stinks. When I can, I'll put some pictures up of places where I've used it and the results.

I have done a LOT of rust body repair, specifically floors. I got my experience on a '70 mercedes coupe so it was all trial and error. What I found to be helpful is get cardboard about the thickness of cereal box and use that to cut to shape your patch, it is very easy to cut and you just keep trying and re-shaping until it is perfect. Mark on the cardboard with sharpie how you want your bends to be. Then when the cardboard is perfect, it is easy to trace the shape onto sheet metal and cut that out; chances are you'll need to fine-tune that a tad but you'll be very close. I repaired the lower portion of my driver's side fender in this method on my '91 pathy just the other day. Here's a tip, the absolute BEST rust paint out there is called "Zero Rust", it was designed for painting bridges. It is pretty expesive and REALLY stinks, but it is bullet proof and will stand up to absolutely anything. I've used this stuff a lot and it has never let me down, it is perfect for rust repair work and chassis painting.

Hey guys, thanks a lot for the informative replies. I don't think it is sagging too much at all and it looks as though there is a ton of adjustment left on the adjustment threads. I'll just giver a few turns and see what my results are.

So I finally got my '91 XE and am doing a few things to get it up to my standard. One thing I noticed is that sitting on its stock 235/75/15 tires was that the front looked a tad saggy (just a bit, could be normal). I've got 31" tires all ready to go on the Pathy and was thinking I should adjust the torsion bars which has never been done by the looks of it. I'm just wondering how many full turns of the adjustment nuts will most likely be required? I know I can just do a couple turns, drop it off the jack and check but I'd rather not have it up and down a bunch of times. Thanks for reading, any help will be most appreciated. P.S. I'll have pics up soon of my ride, I'm doing a bit of rust repair on the quarter panels at the moment. -BBQ

Ah ok thanks for the help! Yah know, I was just thinking about that, I'm used to working on 1970's mercedes stuff, not used to nuts, just bolts! I'll have a closer look, might need to buy a different set of nuts as the mating surface on the yota alloys is flat, whereas I'm pretty sure the mating surface on the stock steelies which are on the pathy now is dished (tapered) a bit.

Hey guys, I've purchased a set of 31" Michelins on 4-spoke alloy Toyota wheels (off a 4runner), I've been told by many that the lug pattern is fine and will fit my '91 Pathy. My problem is that the wheels/tires (which were a great price), did not come with lug bolts or the small center caps. The wheels currently on the pathy are stamped steel ones so I don't think those bolts will be long enough. What should I be looking for for lug bolts? and is there something I can do for center caps? Thanks in advance for your help!

Hey everyone. I'm a new guy who's got a 1991 Pathfinder coming my way in about 4 weeks! The Pathy is currently owned by my sister who is its second owner; she's leaving Canada for a while so is selling the vehicle to me for a good price. I'm planning on doing some minor stuff to it on a budget if possible; already got 31" Michelins on rims waiting to go and am keeping my eyes out for other bargains. Future plans will include bush bumper (might weld my own as I've got some welding experience), CB radio, and maybe a safari style rack. I plan on using the Pathfinder mostly on southern Vancouver Island which is peppered with great 4x4ing opportunities although I'll probably keep it pretty casual with the occasion fishing/camping expedition to the middle of nowhere. Looking forward to learning lots on this site. -Barbecue