veilside180sx

The SBC is actually more compact than the VG30DETT, therefore easier to stuff in there.

The VTC (not VVL or VVT) on the VG30DETT and S14 SR only adjust the intake cam timing. The only motor in that genre/time frame that had true VVT or VVL (variable valve lift) as Nissan calls it, was the SR20VE/SR16VE.

Thankfully, I have no issues with you disagreeing.=) I have yet to decide what I will eventually do to power mine.

I'm well aware of what you are saying. I see this in the KA as well. The SOHC due to the single large exhaust valve, flows better down low due to increased velocity than the DE. It's the difference between sucking through two straws vs one large. Obviously the higher up in the range you go, the DOHC will become more effective.

I honestly don't see the point. It's hard enough to find room in the WD engine bay for one turbo...let alone two tiny T too small's. The DOHC in this application isn't necessarily going to help much, as the SOHC many times will flow better down low (where we need it) To each his own, and good luck with it. I'd settle for having room to stuff a single 50 trim in and call it a day w/o having to use a stupid oil pump to get it back in the pan.

PM sent for JGC springs

Don't get me started on those screw balls. Feel free to search around on sr20forum.com and you'll see all the stuff they've screwed up. An SR is not necessarily difficult (not much different than in an S chassis), but there is no reason to give up the torque you would be with a square 2.0 vs 2.4 with a long stroke. JGS KA D21 dyno at 7psi

Would be stupid to swap a KA with a SR in a D21/WD21. The KA with it's larger displacement makes considerably more torque and spools the turbo faster.

Yes, you'll need a press to be able to install the wheel bearings.

I had the exact same issue. Had to ovalize it, and cut off a corner to make it work. Next time around...I'll just make my own from scratch.

It'll still effect MPG

'94 201k and counting.

I get 18 city / 22 hwy in my WD21 with 31/1050. I don't think that his 20mpg from the 4Runner is anything to shake a stick at.

Idle issues are usually tracked down to the IACV.

I've owned 12 different B13's (91-94) and a B14 (95-99). You'll get better mileage out of a 5 spd, and they are good transmissions. 5th gear pop out was more prevalent in 91-92 which are highport motors. 94 had a lowport motor, and any aftermarket stuff would be different on the intake side anyway. 5th gear popout was never an issue on the GA16DE motors, just the SR20DE. SE-R cars have a VLSD from the factory, but the E/XE/GXE/SE did not. The E did not have a rear sway bar, but the XE/GXE had a small one. The SE-R had a larger rear sway bar. On my 91 GA16DE car I avg about 40-43 hwy, can't remember what I got in town though. SR20DE cars usually get 32-34 on the hwy if they've been well maintained. JDM motors are plentiful and relatively easy to swap for either one. Best SR20DE based forum would be sr20forum.com or sr20-forum.com, and there are a few GA16DE motored cars on there too.

I-10 is definately FLAT.

Nissan ecu's don't like piggy back's. The self learning features will typically negate a good deal of any changes you would make anyway. Almost all piggy backs alter the maf voltage to make adjustments which throws off the timing curve. Reflashing the ecu is the best practice, but still requires someone with competence to have set it up.

Just find a 3.3 shortblock, then don't have to worry about that.

I love the Kershaw Ken Onions. I have a few of them and have always been nothing but impressed with them.

The SR wouldn't be my first choice for the heavy Pathfinder. There just isn't enough torque for hauling around a 3800 lb rig w/o getting higher into the powerband frequently. It'll easily make the power, but you'll more than likely get annoyed having to rev it out all the time. (this coming from someone that has owned over 25 SR powered vehicles) Your money would be much better spent just having someone build a single turbo setup for your existing VG. Something with a small/mid size T3, or 50 trim would be perfect for it. It would offer good spool, plenty of power, and the top end if wanted. I've been debating doing this, or keeping it NA with the 3.4L build.

The 5000's are not charged. At least the 5000's I just installed tonight were not. They worked just fine once installed.=) I'm very pleased with the rears, and expect I will be when I get time to put the fronts on as well.

My DD is the '94 Pathfinder. My play car is a '98 Sentra SE We also have my wife's 2000 Accord EX V6.

The Z31 used a couple of different trannies. Listed by strength of trans... FS5R30A (same internals as the Z32) FS5W71C (same internals as the 240SX, besides the bellhousing) FS5R90A (noodle of the early model turbo's)

The Z31 tranny or the Z32 trans? We use the Z32 trans in 240's with an adapter plate for cars pushing more than 400whp, but don't bother for anything less than that. I'd have to double check my part numbers to see what bolts up to the Z31. On the old drag car I worked on, we'd avg 7 runs out of the car with 630whp on the stock trans before it'd snap the output shaft like a toothpick.

SOHC trannies are a dime a dozen. Even if it is bad, they are easy to replace and cheap to get a hold of.