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  1. I can’t remember the last time I posted on this forum… but yes I still have fun with Nissans. Latest victim…. 1995 HB with R2.8 Cummins / SAS
    4 points
  2. Out in the AZ desert shaking down the new toy, 02 with 5spd manual. Almost finished with my pathy; the mechanical work is done, waiting for some exterior components to come in to finish the build. Looking for other R50 owners in the Phoenix metro to run some trails.
    3 points
  3. I’ve done this on a 2001. Bought it with a broken secondary timing chain. It’s a pain in the butt. In this case I recommend getting a Chilton or Haynes (same pictures and instructions) as they actually were very helpful and had good pictures for reference. This project is a big but i would agree with you in this scenario and think at least pulling the timing cover is necessary to fix the problem. If you’re gonna pull the timing cover, you might as well replace the chains unless they look immaculate. Intake, battery, valve covers, much of the wire harness, a plethora of vacuum lines, radiator, fan, pulleys, harmonic balancer, vvt solenoids, cam bearing caps and timing chain cover comes off. Whether you replace the chains or chain tensioners, replace the gaskets and o-rings. There’s a ton of o-rings and seals associated with the timing chain cover and vvt components. Use your vin on nissanpartsdeal.com to look at the exploded view diagram of the timing chain assembly to find all the o-rings and gaskets. Order these from wherever you want but just make sure you replace them. Before you remove any chains, make sure the appropriate chains have the proper timing marks (mine was missing the timing mark for crankshaft sprocket and was hard to guess which link mated with the mark) also, don’t remove the bolts from the cam phasers for any reason. If you have any questions just let me know. I have a folder full of reference pics of the timing chain project.
    2 points
  4. Can confirm, the 9449s do not settle much and definitely don’t sag. I’ve had the rear loaded with the tire carrier, drawers, and a ton of tools/parts/gear for at least 8,000 miles consistently and I haven’t noticed any decrease in the amount of lift over time. They sit fairly level with all the weight so personally I love them, but obviously if you don’t keep the rear heavy there’s no point. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s a truck that is raked back with any cargo you add. My girlfriends 3rd gen T4R is like this and it irks the hell out of me
    1 point
  5. The new girl exploring her new home After ~500 miles, those springs just haven’t settled & her tail is just too high. Working on that!
    1 point
  6. Need to get the new shoes dirty.
    1 point
  7. Also make sure the nylon guide block at the bottom is at the correct height to align the latch with the striker.
    1 point
  8. Take a look at the latch mechanism. There's not much to it. You'll see the bit that's supposed to grab the latch. If it doesn't move, spray some pblaster or WD40 or whatever's handy up at the joints and work it around until it moves freely. Also check that the springs are intact. I doubt it's the striker, though if the latch seems to move like it should, you might check and make sure the rubber bit isn't adjusted so far out that it's preventing the latch from engaging. That wouldn't happen on its own, though.
    1 point
  9. I'm really gonna miss seeing your R50!
    1 point
  10. He’s pretty busy right now but I was cleaning up his electrical a bit before he drove across country. He has one if the light control devices below (I have the same but not yet mounted. It requires only a single line into a control pad in the cabin (I think he used the clutch delete to pass through the firewall). Another line runs up the edge of the passenger side windshield (with his black color it’s pretty well hidden) to his rack. All of his exterior lighting is controlled by that pad & it sits in front of the shifter. 8 Gang LED On-off Car Control Switch Panel with Wiring Harness and Label Stickers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NRS53X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9iQXjlqrzAMo6
    1 point
  11. That would be great. Once I get some engine work, transmission work, pass smog, get insurance, and registration paid. lol
    1 point
  12. It looks GREAT in person. This was just one of the many shuttle runs we’ve done between Portland & Seattle to exchange parts. Here, @02_Pathy donated his old Falkens to me when he upsized on his rig. Watching him drive away, I can’t help but think it’s probably the best looking R50 out there!
    1 point
  13. A new addition to the barn this summer - these are day of sale pics. My goal had been a clone of my Pathy for eventual total parts interchangability or in house donor. An ‘02 would also get me the best OEM LS & a cabled throttle. I only had a limited time to purchase & overhaul it before it would be out of town for a year or so. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] spotted this one & a month later we had inspected it and I bought it. It’s the exact same exterior color & built just one month after my Pathy. The tan interior doesn’t match my Pathy & all my spares - plus it will make it harder to obscure gear left in the truck - but overall, I’m happy to have it. Only 123K & once we maintenance it & freshen the suspension, it should last a long time. Let the overhaul & modding begin! Many thanks to [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who has been heavily involved in every step of this process. As you can see - I didn’t even get it home before we’d removed the brushgaurds & he’d polished the headlights back to clarity.
    1 point
  14. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. On another note, my pathfinder is officially sold: Got 3500 out of it, which is what we bought it for. Sold it to a nice guy who wants to go camping and shooting with it. By the time all the parts were off, all that was really left was the lift and tires.
    1 point
  16. Beautiful spot along the Deschutes River in Central Oregon
    1 point
  17. On 17 Mile Road, AZ Front end def needs a different bumper
    1 point
  18. Strapped on the recovery tracks! Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. great video dude, looked like a lot of fun. I've said it before and I'll say it again, any new R50 owners gotta check out Tyler's youtube channel, the videos he has on all the details you need for the lift provide a TON of good info. Recent and up to date content, informative, and specifics. I spent a while digging through them when I first started working on my rig and it was an invaluable resource. The forum also has a ton of info, but the videos are straightforward and lay it all out in an easy to understand way. Suspension stuff is expensive and a little intimidating to do for the first time, and the videos gave me a lot of confidence in my purchases and my install! Keep up the videos dude, the work you put in is showing! Looking forward to whatever is your next project on the rig so I can steal some ideas hahahahaha
    1 point
  20. Go to a different inspector that knows his arse from a hole in the ground.
    1 point
  21. Hello guys I found something interesting today for Nissan Pathfinder who needs this information can easily be downloaded from here Nissan Pathfinder Service Manuals PDF Nissan Pathfinder Owner User Manuals PDF Nissan Parts Catalog Software - Nissan Fast 2012 contains information for Nissan submitted for European, Asian, American, Canadian and Japanese markets. Hope it helps Please make this a sticky.
    1 point
  22. Dear friends, I have a big trouble last 2 years on my 1998 3.3 v6 manuel 5spd 4x4 transmission pathfinder. Pathy sometimes good but sometimes misfired only 1500-2100 rpm on the way in any gear.(neutral gear or idle position no problem this hesitation only when acceleration/on the load) My car accelerates at 1000-1400 rpm without hesitation. It is still unhesitating between 2200-6000 rpm. I tried the followings but I can't figure it out for 2 years,i think i am gonna burn it.:( -new spark plugs(i tried 3 set for NGK BKR6E-11-BKR5ES-11 and Platinium NGK 7090) There is no obvious defect in the spark plugs when i removed. -new spark cables 3 set. -All pistons have ignition, because I tried pulling the plug cables one by one. -new hitachi maf sensor and i tried my friends car mass air flow sensor. Values good 4.8 g/s idle and 14.5 g/s 2500 rpm -changed before a new coil-new chamshaft position sensor (RSB56 ignition control module),rotor, cap and finaly i bought 2 new distributor during this time. Advance timing checked and adjusted with timing gun 13-15-17 btdc over and over.(i know timing adjust procedure, car always in operating temperature, tps bottom/ brown socket unplugged mode and the pulley mark is in the 4th notch from the left.) -new throttle position sensor and i tried my friends car working tps and adjustments on the nissan service manual procedure with 0,3mm-0,4 mm feeler gauge or 0,48v trick. I tried throttle body cleaning and checked all spring bolts possible cracks connections -I checked all grounds,tried new cables. -I tried egr delete (I canceled the egr with sheet metal and all hoses blinded) -I tried 2 different fuel pumps. Change it fuses and relays. I changed fuel filter 2 times. -I tried 1 new map sensor and tried myfriends car sensor. -I tested at 2 different times all injectors in the test machine. They dont leak or dont have bad spraying. -I tried other fuel alternatives and i connected liquid petrol gas system. You know this have 6 new lpg injectors,tank,ecu and injector harness. But no difference. -I checked 3 times timing marks from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. (40 teeth and 43 teeth verified on the belt from service manual) -I tried another timing tensioner. -I checked it charge unit. Normal voltage 12.2 v-car working voltage 13.7-14 v -I tried new battery. -I changed 2 times crankshaft sensor on the transmission bell -I changed knock sensor -I tried another air filter and air temperature sensor -I checked fuel preassure regulator. Vacuum hose connected 34 psi and disconnected 42 psi its good. And no fuel leaks or cracks on the vacuum hose. -I changed up 2 oxgen sensors. -I checked evap leaks from the hoses blowing a smoke. -I changed PCV and hoses -I changed Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor -Checked 2 cats its always empty. -I tried good working car ECU(its same 1998) and i found same model ecu harness i try it 500 miles but no different.(You know the ecu harness connects to almost all sensors and distributors, this isnt bad connector or cable problem i have comfirmed) -I tried new injector wiring harness. -I checked brake booster for vacuum leaks -I checked all vacuum hoses i tried spraying carburator cleaner all important points. And i try smoke machine on the intake manifold. -İdle stable 800-850 rpm but, i changed iacv and fic selenoid. I tried it blinde a idle control valve hoses.(for possible vacuum leaks but dont solved) -I changed oil preassure sensor. -I tried all sensors unplugged mode. speed sensor-maf-map-o2-tps-evap-knock-crankshaft-egr- -I checked all brakes-all u joints and rear-front shafts and rear differantial limited slip locks-bearings-teeths. -I finally had the complate engine rebuild. Replaced piston 0,50mm, ring, valve seals,all lifters, oil&water pump, gaskets,all belts and other possible parts. Top cover grinding and adjustments were made. But no difference:( Have you encountered such a problem before? Or another advice? I don't think so, I don't have any problems on slopes or at different speeds but maybe clutch maybe transmission maybe intake and exhaust valves? Sometimes Pathy works fine and this problem does not appear in this range itself. And this misfire has never happened for outside the 1500-2100 rpm range. My car can run fine for hours/ non stop 200-300 miles and its works always max 91 Celcius I have a ODB scanner and i check all sensors referance values from the nissan service manual.I changed it even though i knew some parts were working. I have 2 trouble code but its not important. (back o2 sensors because cats empty and i tried sometimes unplugged mode) I checked long and short fuel trims but no problem on the values LTFT1&2 or STFT1&2 in the +%5-%5 range. It is very difficult and expensive to find another engine in my area. I need your suggestions to solve the problem.
    0 points
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