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  1. 9 points
  2. 6 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 5 points
  4. 5 points
    A couple weeks ago I was able to strip down an R50 bought as a parts truck that was headed off to the JY that afternoon. Since I expect to have my truck another 10-15 years, some of this will be replacement parts if needed. I plan to use some of the trim pieces to experiment on where & how to place mounts & to attempt to reclaim some of wasted space in the body walls. Finally, it was a great opportunity to just dissect the interior & see what was under everything. I took a ton of reference photos for the future. You can imagine how excited my wife was when I came home....
  5. 4 points
    This. theres very little member overlap from the FB page to the forum. Hosting pics can get pretty quick and easy once you find a service you like. I use Imgur. You upload photos onto an account you creat for their website, and then they have special links for all kinds of image hosting. It works best if posting into NPORA on a laptop, but I do plenty with the Imgur mobile app and NPORA’s website in safari.
  6. 4 points
    Finally, after around 16 hours of fighting with almost every single nut & bolt, the front is done (except alignment of course)!! I didn't take any pics along the way because of the frustration of having to heat almost every fastener up with the torch, breaker bar w/4ft cheater pipe, high torque impact gun, you get the idea, but I only snapped 1 little bolt off (one that holds the bracket of nonsense on top of the drivers side strut tower and a bunch on the hubs). Had to ditch my Mile Marker hubs, as they were locked in the lock position and when I was attempting to take them apart, damn near every one of the little bolts that hold the "cap" on snapped. Once I got them off I inspected and repacked the wheel bearings, then put it back together with the stock drive flanges (thank God I saved them!). She drives good, now has about an inch & a half "Cali-lean" going on, but that'll be addressed midweek when I tackle the rear. Time for a hot shower and a cold beer... Sent from my Mobile Communications Device
  7. 4 points
    Update, so for the past week and half. the truck been slowly worked on, sitting on the hoist. Removing parts when i can come in, been getting help from the shop, Nissan Seals/Gaskets been a waiting game as we go along and see things that are needed Week ago, i installed these new belts lol off they come again to remove upper oil pan Under Carriage was pretty clean in turn made the removal of parts much easier Rear Main Seal This crush washer above the RMS was probably the longest wait Cleaning the upper oil pan and lower Box of hardware for the lift top to bottom. All Nissan parts except rear bump stop TO BE CONTINUE......
  8. 4 points
    Auto mode (AWD) simply allows the center differential to slip to compensate for different front and rear driveshaft speeds while turning. It normally biases output to the rear driveshaft, but can transfer up to 50% of torque to the front driveshaft if conditions warrant it. It doesn't know whether the front and/or rear axles are locked. In fact, you can have both front and rear locked while in AWD, and it'll work just fine. Granted, if you're in a situation where you're using any kind of selectable locking differential, you'd best already be in 4H or 4L. Auto mode is for use while driving in inclement weather, not for off-roading where a locking diff is desirable. Since the ARB is a selectable locker, it runs open when it's not engaged. Hence, it'll be invisible to the center diff while in Auto mode. By the way, the ARB locking diff bolts directly to the ring gear and fully replaces the carrier, so it doesn't matter whether you have an LSD or an open diff to start with. The Lokka (front diff) is an automatic locker. Again, whether you're in 2H, 4H, 4L or AWD, it'll work the same. The AWD system won't even know it's there.
  9. 4 points
  10. 3 points
    87-89 were orange. When the brought the 4 door in it went to white lights. My friend has a 90 and they're white. Someone swapped that speedo, and they probably found a nice low mileage one to put in. I'd be replacing the timing belt asap if you haven't already.
  11. 3 points
    Not sure if you know this, but that NPORA facebook page and this website have absolutely no relation. If you need help with uploading photos a mod will be happy to help you here. @mjotrainbrain
  12. 3 points
    Fitted up my 33" spare - 255/75r17 to match my 255/85r16 tyres. Also a BFG MT. Only JUST fitted - very tight. Had to let it down to about 4 PSI. Would have gone in more easily if the towbar was just a little further out. I think my bar must differ from US spec ones as some here have fitted 33" spares no worries. In case you're wondering, the factory Nissan towbar is incredibly strong. I broke a Toyota towbar in half at the tongue weld when doing a moderate recovery with an 8 ton snatch strap... and yes, I removed the ball and replaced it with a shackle. Also went on a fun evening trip with the Land Rover club down at the Ashley River. 18 vehicles. I was the only Nissan. Lots of slippery mud and a few nice off camber bits and ruts.
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    I am starting this thread for everyone to have a place to share their fishing pictures. I’ve just started fishing this year and I have fallen in love with it. My best friend drinks lots and lots of wine and so has built a strong relationship with the owner of the winery he shops at, Rose. Rose has a big pond on a farm that is slap full of large mouth bass! It’s a super awesome fishing spot. Rose’s Pond: These are our first fish caught at Rose’s pond: Some more pics from Rose’s Pond: This one is my current pb (personal best). I was fishing a ned rig and on my second cast I got a bite. It felt normal, maybe a little weak/small, I thought it was a gonna be a small one and that I might be slightly embarrassed to hold it up. So I’m reeling it in, again it feels weakish and easy to reel in, when all the sudden it began swimming away from me and nearly tore the pole from my hands. I regained control of the pole and the cheap Shakespeare I was using was nearly bent all the way into an arc. My heart is pounding and I’m in total reaction mode trying to reel in as this thing is dragging line out of the cheap reel in my hands. Then it stops fighting and I see his large body barrel roll at the surface of the water. My friends who are with me both run over to where I am yelling and cheering! They saw my pole bend in half and know there’s a big fish on there! I got him to the bank and flung him behind me before he could break the cheap line on my reel. There he was, a chunky stud of a bass. I picked him up and had to use my whole hand, not just my thumb, in his mouth not to drop him. His mouth was so big that I could fit both my hands on his bottom lip!!! It was crazy! My friends who are much more experienced than me said he weighted at least 5lbs and may have even weighed as much as 6-6.5lbs or more. I was beside myself, really, for hours afterward. The feeling of catching that thing is alive in me now and has caused me to fall in love with fishing. Here he is: This one is out of a tiny pond I found on Google Earth: Me and my smallest boy Owen fished this pond for 30min without even the slightest nibble and I had let my line set right in front of me while I told Owen that it was time to go, “there’s no fish in here boy... just turtles” and BAM!!! A big ole bite! I lost the first bite and quickly landed the second one! They were right at my feet! You can’t see it well but it was a 2.5# largemouth bass! We have a small retention pond at work and I got a wild hair one evening and whatdoyaknow! Fish!! A fair sized, and fairly rare in Georgia, white crappie. Kind of an ugly fish IMO. These pics are from today, Labor Day. There’s a big waterfall in a neighborhood near my in-laws and above the waterfall is a fairly big dam: I fished lure after lure for an hour trying to figure out what these bass might want.. finally I put a chatter bait on with a big swim bait trailer and BAM! Got one!!! I felt a genuine sense of thankfulness for the little guy. Below the dam was a small concrete area where the water spills into. I cast into it with the chatter bait and instantly had the swim tail bitten off! After a few casts I pulled out some beautiful redbreast sunfish:
  15. 3 points
    I’m not going to lie, it’s pretty nice - here were two of our stops before coming back to the lake up the street. And its a Douglas Fir - Redwoods are California, it’s pretty much all Doug fir here.
  16. 3 points
    My son’s first fishing attempt - it was what he asked for on his 9th Birthday
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    When you replaced the bulbs, did you replace them with the stock type (I'm assuming they're incandescent, if they're replaceable) or with LEDs? LED bulbs cause weird issues in some circuits. If that's what you did, I'd try incandescent bulbs first--and while you're in there, make sure you got everything buttoned up properly the last time (all the plugs fully seated and all that). I'm not surprised the dealer tech said to ditch it. They're used to working on much newer stuff, and likely regard your '03 as a dinosaur. With their labor rates, the price of having them try and figure it out would get silly quick, especially if they start firing the parts cannon. The manual Hawairish linked is your best bet. Good luck and let us know how it goes! The later manuals tend to be heavy on the "press this button on the diagnostic tool you don't have, now press this button," but there's usually at least a circuit diagram to get you started. My dad took his Tundra in with parking lights that wouldn't turn off (probably a bad BCM). Toyota quoted something ridiculous to diagnose and repair, so he drilled a hole in the front license plate and installed a battery cutoff switch from the auto parts store. Park, turn the battery off, lights turn off. Fixed.
  19. 3 points
    @Sharar, welcome to the forum. A few things come to mind: Have you tried things without the new bulbs installed, or with the old bulbs re-installed? To confirm, the 4wd light is on but the truck doesn't engage 4wd? Have you been able to definitively confirm if it is or isn't in 4wd? How's your technical aptitude, or willingness to learn? Factory Service Manuals (FSM) are available online, for free, and are an extremely valuable resource. Not talking Haynes/Chilton, but the real Nissan Dealership stuff. Manuals found here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Specifically, look at the Transfer chapter (https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/2003/tf.pdf). Your "All-Mode" system is ATX14A, and there's a self-diagnostic mode described on TS-62. If the dealer inspected the solenoid and it functions fine, you should still confirm if that returns a diagnostic code. Keep in mind many diagnostic codes don't indicate a problem with a specific part, but part of the system pertaining to the part. The All-Mode system uses numerous inputs. Re-iterating my first question, if you have a known change to the system (bulbs), revert that and re-test. Hopefully it's something trivial, but if it working fine before modifying the switch, then I'd be starting with the switch.
  20. 3 points
    Alright folks, my (almost) 200k mile suspension rehab is finished (except alignment)! So to sum up, thanks to a snapped coil, I replaced my apparently tired Old Man Emu MD suspension after roughly 140k miles of use. New parts are as follows: (FRONT)new OME HD front springs, KYB struts, OME trim packers (7/16" spacer), stabilizer links, repacked wheel bearings (replaced them at ~150k), a little wire brushing, applied rust converter, then rattle can bedliner. (REAR) near new OME MD springs (bought from@CDN_S4 years ago), near new OME Nitrocharger shocks (bought from@hawairish years ago too!), new SFC 1" spacers, sway bar links & bushings, a lot of scraping, wire brushing, rust converter & rattle can bedliner. She rides much more firm now, didn't realize how worn out everything really was! [emoji38] She Now sits between 35" & 35.25" to the center of the fender flare at all 4 corners (on fresh 255/70/16 Wildpeak AT3W's). Now I'll start on the rest of the 200k service (change all fluids & filters from bumper to bumper) I guess! Heck, I even restored my headlights! She'll never be as clean as those Quey's, but maybe all my cleanup work will make@Mrelcocko happy! (Didn't go crazy with pics because I was way too involved, but here's what I got!) Sent from my Mobile Communications Device
  21. 3 points
    Even though people regularly get them confused, Iowa is nothing like Idaho
  22. 3 points
    Hello from Vancouver, BC! I got my R50 last December. 2004 Chilkoot, 5 speed, just under 200000km (~120k miles) when I bought it. Suspension in the back was shot (bottomed out with any load or passengers in the back, bumpstops non-existent), but it had some 245/75/r16 KO2s on it, and previous owner had done a decent black plasti-dip job on the stock rims. Two months ago I backed over a piece of sheet metal and completed destroyed a sidewall. I got a temporary non matched tire, and used the incident as an excuse to order the larger set (265/75/r16) I really wanted. And hey, since they wouldn't clear the strut perch with the stock rims, I'd have to order some new rims too. Tough life Fast forward a few months, and I've now replaced the suspension (OME MD springs front and rear, OME shocks, Kyb Gr2 struts.) Got about 2" of lift out of it (a bit less in the front.) I just got my new wheels and tires in yesterday! Had to do a bit of trimming in the front, but I think it turned out pretty well! The wheels are Procomp 69s (16") in flat black. Tires are KO2s again. These forums have been very helpful while selecting parts for the lift, backspacing of wheels, etc. Now that I actually have something to show, and a bit of experience with my R50 to share, I figured it was time to join up!
  23. 3 points
    That part is simply a metal brace to provide backup support for the splash guard. It's not terribly important if you choose to remove it, and it's probably preferable to replace the splash guard and the brace with a genuine skid plate such as this one: https://sfcreation.com/products/front-skidplate-14-aluminium
  24. 3 points
    Nissan Part No.:21230-8P300 - VALVE ASSY WATER CONTROL is the rear "thermostat" Nissan Part No.:21200-4W010 - THERMOSTAT ASSY is the thermostat on the front of the engine Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Hope that helps!
  25. 3 points
    Echoing what XPLORx4 said: there are no issues here. We put front and rear ARBs in @Rockit's QX4 the other month, so he can back drivability claims. Having them is inconsequential in Auto mode because they are disengaged. Though if you're also planning to get a front ARB, just know that ARB introduced issues that the previous locker did not have (I've installed both). The newer style requires pulling the pinion gear from the case, grinding it down 1-2mm on the head, and modifying the oil seal ring on the RH stub shaft, which requires a press to remove and reinstall in a new position a few mm's off. Lousy design on ARB's part.
  26. 3 points
    Finally got my diff back from the shop all new bearings and races, also the speed sleeve was worn. I installed most of it today just working on my old backing plates, since they are impossible to find, plus I can never justify the shipping. Lots of patience and looking back in my photos. I also re loomed the speedo cable with some braided stuff. Next project is doing the braided loom to the entire engine harness, lots of connections and fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 3 points
    The big question, is the lockdown doing anything good? Sorry, but I am cynical about how the world is reacting to whole Covid 19 virus. It seems to me that it's real danger is more political than an actual health hazard. I am very glad I live in a mostly free state and country and don't have to put up with the restrictions others do.
  28. 3 points
    Follow these steps: (1) Open hatch glass (2) Crawl inside with a 10mm socket, ratchet, plastic trim removal tool, flat screwdriver (3) Use the trim tool to pop covers at the edges of handle (4) Remove both 10mm bolts securing the grab handle on latch (5) Grab a hold of plastic trim cover from anywhere possible at the bottom (6) Pull out toward the front of car starting from bottom, then the edges and finally the top (7) Hatch cover should come off once all clips are out and hatch cover is lifted upward (8) Use the screwdriver to move the release mechanism while you push hatch open
  29. 3 points
    New underbody camera is finally mounted. I went with a hard wire connection to fix the spotty connection issues the last one had, and so far so good. I’ve noticed that the front shaft spins with the wheels at all speeds so far, but I haven’t gone fast enough to get the 4wd error light or get rid of the vibration so I still don’t know what happens to the front shaft when that occurs. Time will tell, and I’ll update when I it happens. I ended up mounting it to the front of the crossmember that’s between the Tcase and tranny. I love the new spot because it lets me see the front wheels but also under the bumper for when I’m going over hills. And of course the underbody lights make it usable at night as well. My next goal is to shield it somehow so that it doesn’t get killed by road debris like the last one. I’m thinking super clear lexan, but it’s hard to figure out a way to mount the shield effectively or make any sort of box around it because there’s not much room where I put it
  30. 3 points
    Added some retrofit headlights! These are a Toyota DIY H4 kit from bxbuilt.com B3 bi-LED projectors with V2 Flat shrouds. I added halos to the kit, and have them wired for DRL duty, but they’re also switchback compatible, so I have them wired to the turn signals, and they function perfectly as hazards and turn signals. Andrew, the owner of BX Built, was super helpful along the way and answered all my messages about the headlights. He’s very easily reached on his Instagram account @bx_built. If you hit him up about headlights, be sure to tell him Tyler / @thewhitepathfinder sent ya! You’ve probably also recently seen these exact headlights (minus the halos) on @herotrooper ‘s R50. He was the inspiration for this mod! More photos to come, as well as a YouTube video!
  31. 3 points
    Daytripping in the Cascade Foothills with@TowndawgR50
  32. 2 points
    The only variation I'm aware of with Lego rims is that the super early ones take mag-style lug nuts with washers, and the rest take the standard acorn lugs. There's a part # cast into the rim that'll tell you which one you have. 4030032G00 are the early mag-style, 4030032G10 are the acorns.
  33. 2 points
    camped north of the pass and went thru Saturday afternoon. Snow was all melted for extra creek runoff and perfect weather conditions! 11/10 will do again. A mile or so past the summit coming down into the dunes Creek crossing beauty shots looking down the pass looking back from the sand
  34. 2 points
    Look on the other side of the axle towards the front. It will have an arch over the pumpkin, and short arms that L forward, and then 2 short links that go up to connect to the subframe. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  35. 2 points
    They sell a body lift now, it’s one of their newest products https://sfcreation.com/products/r51-pathfinder-body-lift-kit-1
  36. 2 points
    First nomination. I missed Sand month, and I’m not on sand anyway, but in the Great Sand Dunes NP on Medano pass. Two for one special with my friend Fred’s ‘95. What a fun time with great people! a few more
  37. 2 points
    So, I *think* 16576-5W900 (same as 16576-5W90A) is the part I need. The difference between it and 16576-4W00A is that 4W00A has an extra port with a metal plug right next to the resonator opening, while in 5W900 it is sealed. This is just for reference in case someone finds this thread in the future.
  38. 2 points
    The existing snap ring may or may not fit. Mine did not. What i had to do was buy an assorted pack of snap rings. Solved my problem.
  39. 2 points
    This past weekend I stopped by Hawairish’s house to rework the arb compressor bracket. It turned out great! Sent from my Pathfinder
  40. 2 points
  41. 2 points
    True. After fumbling around in the junk yard last summer, I can confirm there are 3 face lift grill logos. 99.5 -2001 SE grill emblem. Same style as 99.5 - 2001 LE emblem but has a different curved profile on the back side of the emblem. You could make it work with a small amount of creativity 99.5 - 2001 LE grill emblem. Same as above except curved profiled on the backside 2002+ grill emblem. noticeably different outline and the backside curved profile doesn't match either of the above. However, R50 buttercup on here has a 02+ emblem on a 99.5-2001 grill from what I've seen.
  42. 2 points
    It does sound like a bad regulator on the cluster. Tests you can do is turn the key on, engine off and see what the gauges do. If they max out again, unplug the sender for the temp gauge and see if it drops. Do the same for the oil pressure. If they drop, odds are pretty good the regulator has failed.
  43. 2 points
    Nice work, it always saves money, gives you a better sense of satisfaction and of how things work, when you do your own wrenching, As far as your rear ride quality, if you used factory replacement KYB rear shocks, those will be just about at maximum extension when the truck is sitting level. This lack of available down travel will make your ride more harsh than it needs to be. If you swap those out for a shock that is appropriately valved and 2-3" longer (to match the added height of your springs), like the Bilstien 33-185352 (or there is a less expensive option from ProComp, but the part number escapes me), you'll find the ride quality improved. Just food for thought.
  44. 2 points
    I Just finished installing new suspension in My '01 Pathfinder, up front I put in KYB Excel G-Gas Struts with Adelco Springs (Stock size) and a 1.5" SFCreations spacers (gives about a 2 inch lift), in the rear I put NRC9449 coils which are a HD Coil with KYB Gas-A-Just Gas Shocks (Have around a 2.5" plus lift in the back). I'll admit with the 9449 coils the back rides a lot stiffer especially over speed bumps. All in everything cost around $800 CAD with shipping. I used Rockauto, LRDirect, SFCreations. I did all the work myself, Struts were the hardest which took a few days and rear finished in a couple hours. The 9447 I believe gives close to a 2" lift in the rear.
  45. 2 points
    As much as I hate to say it, it seems like experiences with AC coils have some variance. I get pretty solid trail usage out of my R50, and I also do plenty of daily driving (I did almost 1000 miles today, yup, 1k). I don’t really get top out except for when I fail to slow down for unforeseen trail obstacles. It’s a stiff ride, I’ve driven a broken-in OME, and no doubt it was a smoother ride. But, at the same time, I’ve never considered switching after installing the AC’s. I’ve heard and talked with other other people who seem to get more top out than I do, @Dbot being one of the two or three conversations I’ve had about it. cant go wrong with the land rovers, 9447 or the stiffer 9449 are both great from everything I’ve heard and personally experienced. I have the 9449’s. Those are two solid part numbers that won’t give much more or less than an inch of rake if you lift the front 2”
  46. 2 points
    Nothing like that here. Lots of bikers coming over from the west side this past weekend. Maybe half the people I see when I go through town are wearing masks. It hasn't blown up locally yet, but the county has the highest number of Covid cases per capita in the state. (I think we're also #1 for chlamydia, so, go team.)
  47. 2 points
    Sorry for the delay all. Been on sick leave pretty much since around the time i picked this thing up, not fully sure whats going on but i tested COVID negative so thats good still. On to the R51. Here's the photos from when i picked it up, had a good 2 hour drive home when i picked it up which gave some good learning to the overall characteristics of the vehicle and showed some of its problems. On that drive discovered some of the wheels could use a balance but thats fine as i planned on replacing the tires anyways not sure what i want to do for that - Had Cooper ATW's on my QX4 and they were great, now deciding if i want to stick with those or "upgrade" (read as spend more) on falken wildpeaks AT3W or BFG KO2's. And i also learned the AC has a bit of a leak inside the cabin some condensation but theres a tsb for that i saw and just need to buy a little hose. Next day i drove it to work and noticed my rad was leaking. This was actually a good thing to some extent as i could smell coolant when i bought it but they washed the engine bay so i couldnt see where from. I was happy it was leaking at the top seam as then i could throw a brand new rand in and know that my tranny would still be safe for now. Fast forward another couple days and a CEL for P0455 and P0456 together and alternating, just to play it safe i got a new gas cap - didnt help but was cheap and easy - and then replaced the evap canister purge valve with one from rock auto and so far haven't driven a ton since but no light as of yet. I also did some other maintenance items such as a new air filter, rear glass struts, wipers, had the dealer before i picked it up (for free) do a serp belt and front brakes. The last bit of maintenance i did was polishing up the headlights as they've used a bit of help. Oh and the wheels got some bad corrosion ill need to take care of. Moving on to mods i wouldnt really say i have done anything yet waiting on some money as being on sick leave has delayed some things for now but I saw complaints about they headlights so i decided to try out some new more expensive headlight bulb replacements and went with the Sylvania ZXE's. I wouldnt say in person its a huge difference but there is some improvement - in the photos though you can really see the temperature difference. I have an old light bar and some pod lights ive been considering throwing on but dont want to block the front bumper as im not fully sure as to the v8's cooling capabilities, and have been wanting to do ditch lights but RAGO wasn't the greatest informant if their frontier brackets would work or not. I have not yet ordered the SfCreations body lift as again just waitng on a little bit more money but have beem watching to see if other people are doing it - I think i would be the first v8 to try it and im curious as to how no lower fan shroud would effect anything (if at all), Lastly for a little bit of personalization i did essentially in the toyota world the Raptor light mod and threw some ambers in the grille. Easy to wire up together and mounted with some small zip ties, do power them i wanted to use a fuse tap but couldnt find any locally of the mini ATO's so instead i just tapped into the passenger side corner marker for power and straight to battery for ground. Big photo dump Day i got her Headlights before: Headlights with the ZXE: And lastly with the amber's installed:
  48. 2 points
  49. 2 points
    Sunday Drive up north mendocino count
  50. 2 points
    Went for a proper run on some private land out at Thomson's Flat with the Land Rover club this weekend. Pathfinder went fairly well on the 33s, better than my old terrano on the same ground. Much like the terrano though, I caught the rear bumper on the exact same obstacle and had to remove it. Not much holding it onto the r51! Just two bolts and a few screws plus clips down the sides. I also got a bit brave and completely destroyed the right side step on a big tree root. Unfortunately I got stuck on it and had to get towed off backwards. This cause the front mount on the side step to get rotated, which in turn damaged the wiring loom to the back of the truck. It completely cut the wire to the fuel pump, and blew the fuse too. Had to do some Bush wiring to get the truck going again! And replace the fuse. Thankfully it drove home as it would have been a long slow tow down the river out (several kms down a rough riverbed) and then a trailer home from there. So, a few mods to come. Bullbar and winch are here, just need to fit them. Then I need sliders and a new rear bar too. And front suspension. Also need to do the dual battery setup and fit a new airbox. Time and money...

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