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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Saw a FB classified ad Thursday night: a complete and rebuilt Wagoneer Dana 44 with new 5.89 gears, new carrier, new PowerTrax locker, new bearings and seals, new calipers and rotors, used Warn hubs, and other goodies. Goodies included new shock tower brackets, some new steering dampers, beefy 1.5" x .25" DOM tube adjustable steering links on heims, and even new matching gears for the H233B. $1000. For that ask, I couldn't pass it up even without any intention of ever SAS'ing my truck. The axle alone is getting harder to find, as they're coveted for Nissan and Toyota SAS for the width, driver's drop, and 6x5.5 pattern. I had to have it. On Friday morning, I reached out to the seller and he tells me the intended vehicle, a 2000 Frontier SE V6 CC, blew a head gasket months ago, and he was bailing on the project. Then he offered the truck for another $700. What happened between then and Sunday morning is a blur, but around noon I picked up a buddy, rented a truck and trailer, and drove an hour into the desert boonies to buy a Frontier and SAS project for $1700. Behold! Loaded up, ready to roll. Had to air it down a lot just to get the straps secured. Heavy metal! Took three guys to get it in...and only my wife helped me unload once home. Given how impulsive this purchase was—and then me asking her for help lifting this—I'm surprised she didn't drop it on my head. She's a keeper. The deal also included an extra t-case from an Xterra and a pile of leaf springs he was going to make a custom pack from. I've been sitting on crawler gears for the R50 for months and was planning to pick up a spare t-case unit anyway to bench-install things, so this was too great of a deal. It's from an MT Xterra though, so I'll need to confirm this TX10 bolts up the same as the AT. Easy risk when it's free! The look on my neighbor's face seeing another Nissan truck in my possession was priceless. His initial shock was seeing this beater and not seeing my PF (it was still at the U-Haul place). He sees plenty of them between my own trucks and the few others that swing by my garage. Xterra, Wagoneer, and mystery springs (there's a another layer of them underneath). Intended goal is spring-under axle. Beef. Practically ready to go! Axle came from a 1981 Wagoneer. 5.89s and locker. The truck is in somewhat rough shape, though. It's a beater, but the body and frame are in overall good shape and it has potential for sure. For $700...I couldn't pass up. The head gasket appears to be the most pressing issue at the moment, but it runs and I was able to get it up and down the ramps. Interior needs a deep cleaning, but is otherwise intact; driver's seat needs replacing (rest of the seats are in good shape, just dirty), windshield is cracked, fender flares gone, and I'm sure I'll find other things wrong. Power windows/doors and pop-up sunroof. It's already on 33" tires, and the rears are in really good shape—Cooper Discoverer MTs w/ Kevlar sidewalls—lifted with blocks, new shocks. Factory LSD and 4.636. The front tires and suspension parts are toast and purposefully neglected due to pending SAS. Does have Calmini torsion bars, though. I've yet to really list out everything it has and needs. Title is clear, but I won't be able to register it until the engine is fixed. It's been a small fantasy to SAS the R50 and, given my familiarity with the entire subframe setup, I've previously given significant thought on how I would do it (and having seen another similar project, how not to do it). I was not expecting to get another truck. I already have a 1998 Frontier KC 2WD that's been a side project (in case you missed it, my most recent project was swapping out the H190 3.7:1 axle for an H233B with 3.9's, repacked LSD, and WD21 disc brakes...it was a "while I was in there" project because I needed to change the fuel pump). So now, I've got three Nissan trucks and few decisions to make. A few months ago, I had grumbled to a few R50 friends about wanting a 1st Gen Frontier CC. The reason was twofold: I don't need both my PF and KC. I don't have a commute, but the PF is as "daily" of a truck that I have, and the KC is just for Home Depot and steel runs. A CC solves both passenger and hauling needs. If it was time to move on from PF ownership, a CC would be the optimal choice to transfer over my lockers, rear discs, and wheels/tires to. However, the PF is my knowledge wheelhouse, but I have much more history with the KC, a.k.a. "Old Blue". Either would be really hard to part with. In the meantime, with the KC being in a restorative state, I can justify buying new stuff for it, and putting the take-offs onto the CC (such as the windshield, which has a couple small chips and pits). There's probably too much work required to get the CC to a pristine state, but a few hand-me-downs will help greatly. In the end, I'm certain I'll be keeping the R50, but one Frontier will need to go. Then will need to figure out what, if anything, gets SAS'd. Anyway...I've got a ton of ideas and options, and I'm stoked to have stumbled across this deal and thought I'd share. I'd love to hear some ideas...I'd list out all the options I'm considering, but it's a pretty exhaustive. What would you do?
    3 points
  2. More parts fun last weekend. @Ravens794, better known as ricksha_r50 on Instagram, stopped by for some parts. We got him hooked up with my old 4.6/lokka front differential as well as some other odds and ends. Extra roof rack parts and an OEM hitch were also in order. And he dropped off some parts so that I can pass them along to another owner this coming weekend. It really is an R50 junkyard growing in my own garage. He's one of my favorite R50's to get the Pines to Spines treatment. His build is really coming together, you can see more on his rig here: Or on instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ricksha_r50/ Super nice guy who was a lot of fun to meet! I'm glad the lokka will be getting put to good use.
    3 points
  3. Ok, issue resolved. I like to get in the habit of documenting solutions for others in the future. So the issue was the driver's side control arm bushing. It was the front bushing. This was very odd because I've never had a bushing pop before. I've had them creak before on other vehicles but popping is new to me. If I thought popping/clunking would ever be possible, I would have assumed it would be with suspension articulation and not steering related. The popping did transmit sound and shock down the entire front end of the subframe, but didn't really transmit it to the other end of the control arm though. I have two r50s, so I decided, I'd swap things around piece by piece until I found it. Ended up swapping the whole rack and tie rod assembly from my 2001 over. After that didn't make any difference, I swapped over the driver control arm. I've put about 50 miles or so on it and haven't heard any popping. This has been quite the rabbit hole for my 2002 and now, I've refreshed the front end of my 2001 since I've confirmed my suspicions that the tie rods and ball joints were shot. Also donated my 1 year old rubber rack bushings from my 2002 to it also. I'm definitely not looking forward to paying for two new alignments while the barrel of the parts cannon is still smoking but I digress.
    2 points
  4. On another note, my pathfinder is officially sold: Got 3500 out of it, which is what we bought it for. Sold it to a nice guy who wants to go camping and shooting with it. By the time all the parts were off, all that was really left was the lift and tires.
    2 points
  5. @mjotrainbrain The box camper would be pretty awesome. Can't say I've seen offerings like that here. The KC definitely has personal importance, but it's not the end of the world. My dad and I have changed ownership a few times ever since he bought it new, but it quickly became my daily college ride in 98. It's been lifted, it's been lowered, it's been neglected (it was replaced by a 2017 Frontier). I had considered selling it previously just to avoid having a 3rd vehicle around, but I'd rather it just sit on the side house and see occasional use than go to some stranger who'll just trash and scrap it. Instead...and I'll implicate @TowndawgR50 here, but he and I have been chatting about the project and his interest in becoming the next owner, which I'm thrilled about. I think no matter how this pans out, Old Blue will see a bit more restoration before it changes hands to anyone (just went to Maaco today to get an estimate for body work and respray, actually). That deal would be awesome because I'd know it'd be in good hands. I found myself looking for a variety of parts the CC last night. I'm quickly warming up to the idea of completing the SAS project for it and otherwise building it up.
    1 point
  6. The beams raise and lower very slightly even from the 2 opposite ends of adjustment. Is the qx4 already lifted? With rear rake, it can drive the beams into the road even with the highest setting. The adjustment is meant to compensate for a stock qx4 with rear cargo to point the beams “lower” since the front is faces up under load. I only noticed the beams raising and lowering after facing the headlights onto a wall and switching between the 0 and 4 setting. The beam in total moved about an inch on a wall a few feet in front of me, just FYI.
    1 point
  7. Weak LSD is better than an open diff, but, yeah, the R50 LSD isn't great. You can swap in the whole third member from an early Xterra to increase the breakaway torque a little (if the gear ratio matches--check the data plate in the engine bay, should list HG43 or HG46). Or you can open it up and restuff it back up to WD21 specs, though you'll still need another third member to scavenge the parts from. Hawairish did a great writeup on what's involved with that. And, yeah, the R50s all got rear drum. It is possible to disk swap them. Hawairish wrote the book on that, too. Sorry to hear about your '95.
    1 point
  8. You're probably right that a shop got the wrong diagram and sold the PO two cats they didn't need. If you have the smog shop's comments in writing, hold onto that, just in case the next idiot makes the same mistake as the idiot who started all this.
    1 point
  9. Here's a video of it in action. Apologies for the potato cam.
    1 point
  10. Thought I'd upload a few pics from my trips over the past few months. Have done a few with the club and solo, including Omarama Saddle, Forks Stream and of course Macauley hut. All great drives though not terribly challenging (doable in a stock vehicle). She's been running well with no mechanical issues other than having to replace the rear brake pads.
    1 point
  11. Gearbox is back in! Nice and quiet and shifts beautifully... I've also purchased another (non nissan) project which meant the white pathy had to go. I pulled most of the trim out but the rest of the car has gone to a new home. Hopefully the new owner does something with it.
    1 point
  12. Gear ratios for the R50 (96-04 Pathfinder) are either 4.636 or 4.363, depending on original tire size (96-00), and 4.363 for 01-04. The ratios are NOT interchangeable with gears from the WD21, as the H233B rear end has 33-splines vs 31 on the WD21 H233B. Notably, the front diff (R200A) on the R50 has a reverse-cut ring/pinion, so no ratios other than 4.636 or 4.363 will work. Many, but not all R50's were equipped with rear LSD. There may be an orange "Use LSD oil only" sticker on the back of the rear diff. If not, the sticker may have come off or the LSD is open. However, the breakaway torque on the R50 stock LSD is abysmal, and largely unsuitable for any type of decent traction advantage on rugged terrain.
    1 point
  13. Have you fixed the power valves? If not, that’s a must. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 Key & fob are easy - it’s the chip that’s the problem. Watch the pressure on the AirLifts. I’ve used them & they’re great but it’s imperative for their longevity that you keep a minimum pressure in them. BTW, I found a quick & easy way to pop them up was with a bicycle CO2 inflator - works pretty well since they are low volume. It’s instantly ready & fits in the glovebox or the palm of your hand.
    1 point
  14. Finally installed my Doug Thorley headers on my 1995. They've only been sitting in the closet for 5 years.
    1 point
  15. OK guys, I'm now officially in stage 2 of my pathfinder project! It got plates Wednesday. That means I'm going to bash it around for a month or so and see if anything comes up. Then its back off the road for the next bit. As a sidenote, I'm glad I picked this sucker up when I did. I've continued to poke around craigslist/facebook marketplace/kijiji out of curiosity (one of the funny things about living in interior BC is that the lower mainland almost exclusively uses craigslist while the interior, a mere 3 hours away, doesn't use it at all) and all the pathfinders on there are similar or worse condition for substantially more money! One in roughly this condition is now seeking like 7-8K CAD, and there isn't a single one below 220K kms in western Canada now! Sheesh. What a difference two months makes. Edit: Aaaay got pictures working! The Pathy The old rig with the pathy creepin' On the way back from the mountain So now I'm going to compile a list of to-do's for stage 3. Any recommendations or "actually you're wasting your time there" for long term reliability or "boy I wish I changed that before I was 4 hours up a fire road north of Pemberton" for the following would be most appreciated. "The Good" Mods: For the lift I'm planning on using is a wide combination of parts: Front: KYB Struts + bellows OME HD front springs OEM/Moog strut mounts and bearings (the Nissan dealer's service desk in my town won't give me the time of day so actual OEM is kind of sticky) Rear: OME shocks LR 9447 Springs I already have one of those air bag kits in the back - I think I'll keep it there after the swap which will let me add some pressure if I want to emulate 9449's for the occasional trip or two. We get loaded down but I don't tow. I'll probably post the lift-related stuff in the LR spring thread, as that appears to have become the de-facto suspension lift questions thread provided LR springs are involved in some way. Protection: Fleury's missing link and front skid plate - maybe I'll add the rest later? For what the current goals of the vehicle are I think that's fine for now. For tires I'll have to see. I'd like to keep the stock wheels as I think they are really cool (they're kinda rough, I'd restore them over winter - I have a pretty good paint setup for small objects) and I understand the stock wheels get complicated with bigger tires. As this is an adventure and cruiser build more than a rock crawler, i don't need to go crazy here. Reliability changes/upgrades: Replace Thermostat and maybe water pump - from what I've been reading a lot of you guys are very much a "if it aint broke don't fix it" water pump attitude. Let me know! Replace bushings and/or ball joints or whole pieces for all of the control arms and similar in the vehicle. Replace wheel bearings while wheels are off for the lift RR drum shoes One of the sensors on the TPMS is shot. I'd like to get the light off ideally. Cosmetic/Auto/Other: Spare Key (from somewhere...?) touchscreen head unit backup camera - when we do trips in the Blazer, because half the cargo area is puppy area, the back is piled to the sky and there's no rear visibility at all. I'm imagining the same problem here. Clean and de-surface-rustify anything that I take off before it goes back on. The original back end of the exhaust is pretty done. I'll have to stick another on. LED map lights Swap the stock towers for Yakima ones so my tent can come over! Stage 4: When I get here I'll have to evaluate. I have dreams of a rear bumper, sliders, a locker, maybe even manual hubs, extensive electrical stuff, what have you, but we'll worry about this stuff once stage 3 is done and I'm cruising in it. Please note, I'm not looking to do everything on the cheap! I respect a ton of other forum users who are getting amazing results while spending very little money, and the Pathy is an amazing vehicle to allow you to do that. However, I'm OK to spend where it counts to get the vehicle I really want. I didn't buy a Pathfinder to save money specifically, I purchased one because I've always wanted one!
    1 point
  16. Status update: it was the distributor, I replaced it back in February and it runs great now
    1 point
  17. Made the front diff plate a little more badass looking, tried to make chrome flames coming out of the bolt holes but I made the stencils a bit too small. All powdercoat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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