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Down here in Tassie we call it the "Covid Tax" old $2-$4k Landcruisers and Patrols down here now go for anywhere between $8k to $16k, it is stupid. Even caravans, and in particular off road campers are going through the roof too, we got ours delivered leading into covid for mid $20k and they are now selling $40-$50k second hand because the waiting times on new ones are up to and over 18 months. All because everyone can't go on interstate/international holidays any more they are buying up all the 4x4's ad campers so they can see their home state, and camp etc... I'm calling it, there will be a glut of 4x4's and off road campers on the market in the next 18-36 months, back at realistic if not rock bottom prices.

I've never had a strut suspension to bits, and I've seen a few threads about strut top issues, but I'm not sure I'd fire the parts cannon just yet. Having it still make the noise when it's on jackstands makes me think it's not load-related, which isn't what I'd expect for either a strut top or a TRE. I'm also noticing you said both tie rods seemed like they were making the noise. Maybe both outer TREs failed prematurely, at the same time, or the noise is transferring really well from one side to the other, but noise on both sides of the rack has me wondering about the rack. I'd pop the outer TREs out of the knuckles and repeat your jackstand steering test. If it doesn't make the noise, steer the knuckles by hand to check the strut tops, and if those seem fine, check it again with one tie rod, then the other. If on the other hand the steering still makes the noise when it's not moving the knuckles, that suggests an issue with the rack, steering shaft U joints or rag, steering transfer box whatsit, or possibly the column. I would double-check the rack bushings, too, though again that seems like a long shot given how little load they're under with the truck in the air. If the feel-stuff-while-it-makes-the-noise test fails, disconnect things one by one until you find the problem. Obviously be mindful of the clockspring while doing this. I think the shafts are keyed so you can't reinstall them cockeyed, but I would still put a paint pen mark on them before pulling them apart just to be safe.

100% I test drove 2002 Pathfinders & 4Runners back to back in 2002 when I bought mine. The 4Runner was a disappointment in every way to me at the time. On the other hand, I thought the Pathfinder looked blasé but it’s engine, handling, AWD system & MUCH nicer interior & creature comforts sold it to me. As a consequence, I’ve never thought much of 3rd Gen 4Runners & have never regretted it. Had the 4th Gen 4Runner been out yet, I probably would have bought it. And I’m definitely not anti-Toyota, I have a 5th Gen 4Runner & LOVE the GXs.

Yeah it’s kinda funny how they managed to make it the suspension simultaneously so squishy and yet also harsh. My girlfriend has a 99 limited and the rear always sags under any decent weight, but at the same time it’s not comfortable on bumps either. For people who think unibody trucks are crap off-road, they need to take a look at XJs. I do wish the pathfinder came stock with longer travel IFS, but I don’t mind the unibody

Play free bird! This topic's been beat pretty hard over the years, so you'll likely find several recommendations if you search around a little. They typically have vehicle weight ratings as a guideline for picking a size that'll suit your application.

Usually a hit with a hammer will get the old water pump off just be careful not to damage the sealing surface. Put the bolts in a safe place so you don't lose them. Now here comes the fun part - cleaning the gasket surface mwhoawhowooahh. Nah, it's ok, but yeah, prepare yourself. Scrape as much gunk off as you can with a plastic scraper and don't gouge the surface. I found boiling the kettle then pouring that over it helped to loosen up the brittle stuff. Scrub ut clean with the steel wool until it shines like in the photo, spray it clean with hot water again and dry it well. Get your gasket that came with the new water pump and only put a thin bead of sealant on. Press it onto the surface on the engine. Luckily there's two mounting bolts there so I won't fall off. Then do the same with the new water pump, sealant on the edge all the way around and then place it onto the engine side. Bolt everything back up. You'll see I used only a 2mm wide adhesive and the stuff squishes out a bit. It's ok, at least it doesn't leak anymore! Now more cleaning! Clean your radiator and flush it out, overflow reservoir and clean and degrease your fan and belts. I cleaned my belts and they actually had writing hidden under the crud! I even gave my radiator top a fresh coat of gloss black while it was out. May as well while it's out of there. Anyway, sorry for rambling on, and I hope this helps out anyone else.