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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/29/2020 in all areas

  1. Well, I was working at my local Nissan dealership until almost 2 years ago. Not sure about the Zinc deal and how much it changes things. My 93 Pathfinder had a bit over 200k miles before I replaced the engine due to the woodruff key for the timing belt sprocket destroyed the crankshaft and the pistons and valves got to know each other. My 85 300zx had over 200k miles too before I suspect the oil pump broke. I was tired of working on that car so never bothered to figure out what went in it. Neither one showed any noticable wear in the lifters or cams. I did have a cam failure in a Z20 engine, but that was caused by a broken rocker arm. None of my other Nissans or the ones I worked on have shown problems with wear on the lifter faces or lobes. Where I work now, we see a few failed cams per year in GMs and Chrysler engines. Almost never caused by the oil though.
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  2. Posting in case someone else runs into the same...I need to replace the spring insulators on each end of each coil, 55034+A. They're ~$27 each, need 8 of them (two per coil). Over $200 for a cheap piece of plastic/poly sleeve. Screw that! Went to Home Depot and I'm using some tubing instead and saving ~$220. I don't mind spending money where it is worth it, but cannot convince myself these insulators are worth it. Top is the old insulator (it's old, thin poly), OEM $27 each , clear is the tubing I'm going to use to manufacture 8 of these for $1.20 each.
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  3. I doubt the mechanic would've disabled it elsewhere. Could be that the refrigerant charge has leaked down enough over time that the low-pressure switch won't let the compressor kick on. I don't know why that would stop the light in the button from coming on, though. Could be that's on the circuit controlled by the pressure switch, or you could be correct about an electrical fault elsewhere that just isn't telling the aircon to engage in the first place. I wouldn't expect a faulty relay to explain the light not coming on, but I don't know how Nissan wired it up. The service manual should have the wiring diagram (probably in HA, if not try EL), and some troubleshooting ideas as well. My first check would be shorting out the low pressure switch. If the compressor starts with that bypassed, that's a pretty good sign that the gas is low and needs to be refilled (and the leak fixed, if you can find it). If you've got no voltage across the low pressure switch, you've got an electrical fault elsewhere.
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  4. Plus a few more pics because why not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  5. Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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