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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/13/2020 in all areas

  1. Next weekend I'm replacing the front coils and struts, and the rear coils and shocks. I've got AC springs, KYB struts/mounts/bellows for the front and LR9447 springs and Bilstein 33-18552 shocks for the rear. Have the 8MILELAKE spring compressor that several mentioned recommended. I've only got basic garage tools, i.e. not a full range of tools that a real mechanic would have. My buddy is coming over (he's an F-35 aircraft mechanic) and he's bringing what he uses on his Tundra. Is there anything specific that you'd recommend to have on hand before getting started? I'd like to knock this out in 2 days or less. Don't want to get part way in and realize I need to fin some tool I don't have on hand. I've looked through the FSM and don't see anything but those that have done this work know better than the FSM what tools were needed/recommended.
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  2. Here’s a tip for the strut replacement. Loosen the nut on top of the strut shaft before removing the strut. It’s much harder to break that but loose after the strut is removed. Camber bolts, if used, should be installed on the top strut/knuckle bolt hole. When replacing the rear springs, you do not have to remove the pan hard rod, but it is very helpful to unbolt the sway bar mounts from the axle so that the sway bar doesn’t interfere with flexing the axle during installation. Also, unbolt the rear brake manifold on top of the diff to prevent overstretching the rubber brake line while you manipulate the rear axle. I would also suggest extending the rear differential breather tube to a higher location or possibly up into the cabin through one of the grommets on either side behind the wheel wells. (I routed my breather tube to the fuel filler neck area.)
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  3. I like my Tekton 1/2 from Amazon better than my Dads 20 year old Craftsman. Now their 3/8 only has inch lbs and newton meters, so I'm constantly having to ask Alexa in my garage what the conversion is for my manuals that don't have Nm. Its ratchet teeth are a little coarser than I'd prefer. But for what I paid I can't complain. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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  4. You're golden if you have that spring compressor. Just DON'T USE ANY impact tools on it and you'll be fine. A standard ratchet with a pipe on it will give better leverage. You might want to consider getting a pair of camber bolts in case stiffer spring gives too much positive camber. They'd go on bottom hole. Maybe some anti-seize and definitely a torque wrench to do it right.
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  5. With the clam shell spring Compressors , its all good and faster !!! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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  6. I swapped in a 3.3 into my 93 when I killed the original 3.0. the engine I go was from an Xterra(WD22) originally, was installed into a 96 R50, then into my WD21. I installed my plenum and exhaust manifolds from my 3.0, the manifolds fit fine, the holes were big enough to go over the 10mm studs without drilling. I swapped my 3.0 distributor and I believe I did the oil pan as well. Motor mount brackets bolted into the same places. I did get accessory brackets from Frontier/Xterras for the alternator, power steering and ac compressor. I was already running a Quest/Villager alternator that actually fit better with the D22 brackets. My steering pump was leaking so replaced it but only needed the pulley from the D/WD22 to make it work. Water pump is the 3.3 unit and the pulley is for the D/WD22. I had gone electric on the fan long before, but expect the clutch and fan will fit fine. I kept the lower intake manifold and injectors from the 3.3 and simply used parts of both engine wiring harnesses to connect everything. I wound up extending the oil pressure switch wire to reach the switch on the oil filter adapter, but could have simply pulled the plug in the block and put the switch in the same place as the 3.0. I put the sending unit for my aftermarket oil pressure gauge there in mine. All in all, not that hard a project and has been working fine for almost 20 years. I still don't have an ac compressor, but that is because it hasn't been a a daily driver for a long time and I find other expenses to take my money. Most of the time it isn't hot enough make living without ac in a truck that is mostly used for off pavement recreation.
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  7. We have plenty of JY around here. the problem is finding Nissans especially older ones that haven't already been stripped. See plenty on the road but that's the thing about them. if you do routine maintenance they'll run pretty much forever. I haven't babied mine at all and it's spent as much time off the road as on but never overheated it, kept the oil changed, timing belt ,etc. put an external tranny cooler on it and undercoated the entire body/frame right after i bought it new (not to mention all the mods I've done to date) but 320K miles with no major problems and 0 rust issues says alot about the quality of the vehicle. Don't see that in most vehicles these days for sure. There are plenty of other NPORA members in your area so might want to make an effort at getting in touch with a few that could point you in the right direction. maybe even some that are close enough to lend a hand with your project if the need arises
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  8. Shame you live so far away. When I went looking for mine took one day to find 2 xterras completely intact Bought the whole motor for $350 w less than 70K miles on it and they pulled it for me. I get mine back in the truck thinking about getting the other one just to build .If you cant find one though worth using and want to cover shipping, can get it pulled. stripped down to just the things you'll need and send it your way.
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  9. I've heard that the VG30 heads will fit a VG33 block, but the coolant passages don't match up, so there's some screwing around you have to do to make them work. Easier (and almost certainly better) to use the right heads. I'd be concerned about what else was wrong with an engine with a blown head gasket or that was already stripped to a short block. Your VG30 intake will bolt to the VG33. Use the VG30 intake gasket set. The VG33 exhaust manifold studs are larger, so you'll have to enlarge the holes in your manifolds if you're re-using them. IIRC the oil pan and possibly the pickup tube need either swapping or modification to clear the front diff, depending on what your donor is. Rockclymr's correct on the sprockets. Make sure you get the round-tooth belt to match the round-tooth sprockets. The balancer is the biggest stumbling block to the VG33 swap. The VG33 crank snout is thicker, so your VG30 balancer won't fit. I've heard of people using the VG30 crank and oil pump in the VG33, so they can keep the stock balancer, but that's an awful lot of work just to use inferior parts. Boring out the VG30 balancer leaves it scary thin from what I've read. There was a one-year-only Canada-only factory balancer that would marry the VG33 crank to the VG30 pulleys, but naturally they're unobtanium now. Mr. 510 makes an aluminum ring that replaces the balancer and allows you to bolt the V-belt pulleys to the VG33 crank without modifying anything else. He reckons the engine is fine without the balancer. The other option is to forget about keeping the v-belts and run the engine just like it was in the donor, accessories and all. Xterra/Frontier VG33s have their accessories in the same places and are supposed to fit pretty well. R50 VG33s swapped stuff around, so they'll fight you more, but I think someone on here made it work anyway. I'm not sure whether the later aircon pump will take the WD21 lines, but the alt and the power steering should be pretty easy to set up. If you haven't seen it yet, Mr. 510's VG34 swap thread has a lot of good info for the VG33 swap, even if you're not boring yours out for bigger pistons like he did. He doesn't come around here much anymore but he's active on the NPORA Facebook page (as David Carroll).
    1 point
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