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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/2020 in all areas

  1. its good to be back in Idaho for the holidays!
    4 points
  2. Wilco Hitchgate spare tire carrier finally arrived. I went with the high clearance model. It isn’t cheap but it’s well designed and built like a tank. The spare tire relocation bracket and Rotopax mount bracket (which mounts between the tire and rear hatch) is still backordered but I’ll post pics when those arrive.
    2 points
  3. Can you PM me a link. I prefer RIGd => Wilco => Detours in that order. If I can’t find a used one for a reasonable price, I would probably buy what you did as I want it for Tire/HiLift/RotoPax & Wilco has the best price/utility ratio new. I would probably use a different plate relocator as I’d like to have something with an LED that I can just keep in place with or without the swingate - possibly a ladder mount for the 4Runner.
    1 point
  4. I can appreciate that. I also thought long and hard about this, and debated trying to track down an OEM tire carrier as well. My situation is that I don’t have a garage or even driveway and live in a neighborhood in the city. I decided I didn’t want to struggle drill into the body of the car out on the street as cars are passing by and my neighbors are walking the dogs.. Particularly in the middle of the rainy season here in the Pacific NW. This seemed like the best solution for me at this time. Not only that but having the option for bolt-on rotopax mounts for spare fuel was appealing as well and with the OEM mount you’d be talking about custom welding etc which is out for me. You’re mileage may vary. Note as well the price was not over 1k - more like $750. On top of that since this is a relatively universal product I figure I can easily sell it for not a big loss if I decide to go a different direction in the future.
    1 point
  5. It did have the round tooth belt so that was what was confusing me. Don't know why they had the square tooth even listed for the 94. Didn't even say it in the description anywhere so that's why I was wondering the difference in the belt #'s. Guess if I had researched a little more beforehand wouldn't be asking silly questions. Maybe just a little excited to get it all back together.. I bought the Pathy new, did some upgrades over the years (Rear air locker,3"BL, ARB bumper, roof rack, etc). My youngest boy drive it all through High school, We've had it underwater, buried in mud to the door handles, not babied it at all and when we pulled the motor last summer it had 370K miles on it w no major problems ever. Now doing this SAS and engine upgrade is kind of completing what I planned from the beginning.
    1 point
  6. Been a while! The thread linked to the previous post is a fantastic resource. Just a couple small updates: 1) Earlier this year the exhaust rusted off aft of the muffler so replaced muffler and everything back. More aggressive than stock - sounds fantastic at 2500+ rpm with the pedal down - but as quiet as stock when cruising. 2) Hella 450 fogs to replace stock. Removed a section from bumper to accommodate larger fogs, filled the voids, and prepped and painted entire bumper flat black. 3) Indicator for hubs locked/unlocked. Just an illuminating switch wired to ACC wire for head unit. 4) Full exterior LEDs minus front indicators, headlights, and fogs. Load resistors for rear indicators to avoid hyper flash; attached to inside of rear light housing with heat-conductive double sided tape. 5) SFD kit from Pines to Spines is sitting in a shipping warehouse in Montana waiting for the border to open... No access to garage at the moment so likely that’s it for the winter, though I may try my hand at upholstery and repair the driver’s seat. Everything I’ve found in a yard has been pretty nasty looking. Major plans for next year or two include the rear tire carrier mod, new fenders at all 4 corners, new rockers, SFD kit with 33s, and possibly gear ratio change plus/minus Lokka for the front diff. I’ve toyed with the idea of a SAS for the front and a heavier rear axle along with a Cummins 4BT but that fab is on hold for a long while and I think that motor is just too heavy.
    1 point
  7. Our unibody trucks have all of the following components mounted to a front subframe: suspension (lower control arm + MacPherson strut) steering (rack and pinion) drivetrain (front differential) motor mounts A subframe drop uses a series of spacers to separate the subframe from the chassis and motor. You gain lift without replacing any individual suspension components, just by moving the subframe away from the chassis. Typical SFD sizes are 3" and 4" and do not require other suspension part upgrades, but you can use lift springs in conjunction with it...that's where the 6" total lift comes from (i.e., 4" SFD + 2" lift springs). Our CVs are near their maximum operating angles with only 2" of conventional lift; anything more risks busting CVs. (Note that springs alone can't cause broken CVs.) An SFD is essential/required if you want more than 2" of lift because it assures CVs can be kept within their operating angles. Also, an SFD only addresses the front suspension. For the rear suspension, OME and AC have 2" springs for non-SFD applications. Beyond that, there's an array of LR springs that are good for up to 4", as well as spacers.
    1 point
  8. Welcome @jessrob. Bearer of bad news here: Max lift the truck can support without an SFD (subframe drop) is 2", accomplished with lift springs (OME, AC) or strut spacers. The use of spacers may lead to busted CVs, depending on your setup. SFD allows for more lift, which allows for up to about 6" total lift, but they are custom parts. There are practically no performance bolt-ons for our truck except a K&N filter. No intakes, no headers, no tuners. Our VQ35DE shares virtually nothing with other VQ35DE-equipped cars. Anything you do here will be custom. The last statement also applies to exhaust. The truck is fairly capable and underrated, but there's no aftermarket for it. That's not to say things can't be upgraded. Lift is the most readily-achievable goal; OME has a great product in both springs and struts/shocks. I'd advise sifting around the forum a bit more to learn about lift options and SFDs.
    1 point
  9. Joy riding through North GA...... Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. I think the best tire all around for the stock LE rims would be a 33” 10.5 wide with 1 inch spacers all around. You’d still be able to tuck the rears, have a decent stance, and good contact patch but not too wide that you’d need wider rims
    1 point
  11. So our new garage/shop is ready and I have just sold my place in the 'burbs of Melbourne. Zero Covid cases for 3 weeks here so the lockdowns are over in our state for now Will be moving up to our rural property in about 8 weeks so you can expect some updates on this turd!
    1 point
  12. In the US, the 90-95 Pathfinder used the H233B rear axle with 31 splines. There were a couple of variations, disc brake and drum brake versions used different axle shafts and bearing retainers. The LSD and open diffs used different carriers. Finally transmission determined if the final drive ratio was 4.3:1 or 4.6:1. Somewhere along the line between 1987 and 1995 the H233B in the WD21 gained 2 more studs for mounting the center section, but I have heard it isn't a big deal. All this information is for 4wd WD21 All that said, disc brake versions usually had LSD. Drum brake had either open or LSD depending on options. 4.3 gears were found in manual transmission and 4.6 was auto. Years ago my 93 SE had its original equipment LSD and disc brakes. I liked it but wanted more. I had a friend that had a 95 XE with drum brakes, and he wanted a bit more as well. Both trucks were autos so had the same 4.6 gears. I bought a Lockright and the night before a Moab trip we swapped out the center sections of our rear axles. I put the Lockright into the open diff, it was very easy and simple and bolted in the center section into my disc brake axle. 18 or so years later, I am still driving with that same setup. Works fine. The LSD center section went into his drum brake axle housing fine, but we did make the discovery later that we had to add the spacer block I took out of his old differential carrier into my old LSD carrier to keep his axle bearings happy. After we got back from a week in Moab we did that and he had no problems for the couple years he had his truck. The Lockright was inexpensive and has been completely reliable in my truck running 33x12.50 tires, VG33, and an idiot behind the steering wheel. It will only fit the open diff, but it is a simple install and does make a noticeable difference over a LSD, even a healthy tight one like mine was.
    1 point
  13. I found it!! I had my girlfriend back the truck up at full lock over a bump and saw that the clunk was noticeable in the strut but was coming from lower down, so I went behind the wheel and watched the control arm. Sure enough, the clunk was coming from the three studs that attach the ball joint to the control arm. You could visibly see it shifting as the clunk was happening. So I went and checked the torque on the nuts and of course they were super loose. Torqued them down properly and the clunk is 100% gone now. I’m just glad nothing failed catastrophically! Yikes The only question now is whether it did any damage to the ball joint itself or the control arm while going over pot holes and rough terrain? I think it’ll be fine but I’ll keep an eye on it. My current theory for how things got so loose is the anti-seize we used on the bolts during assembly. My dad was helping me and insisted it would help make them easier to change the next time. Well maybe it made them just a little too eager to come out lmao I also got excited because I thought maybe it tightening those nuts could have fixed my highway vibration issue as well, but no luck there. I’m still thinking that’s coming from the bad diff bushings. Oh well, I’m just happy that stupid clunk is now gone
    1 point
  14. If you install the 2" spacers, you could potentially have binding issues with the front CV axles while the wheels are off the ground. This side-effect seems to be influenced by the particular brand of CV axle on your vehicle. The best way to confirm whether you have binding or not is to install the spacers, then rotate the front wheels (with hubs locked) by hand and feel for any resistance or binding in the inner or outer CV joints. If there isn't, you're probably OK. If there is binding, you may damage the CV axles on any type of terrain that might cause either front wheel to max out the suspension travel. Therefore, avoid such terrain. Also, another common side-effect of 2" spacers is extreme positive camber, which may be correctable with camber bolts. After installation of the spacers, you'll need an alignment.
    1 point
  15. I always liked some of the Rola units, but without some sort of lower crossbars or mounting options, they always looked goofy sitting above the OE crossbars. Beyond that, I'm not much help for alternative basket options. However, if you're looking for a lower profile "base rack" design with a ton of mounting provisions, consider some of the aluminum extrusion racks out there. They're pricey, and while some probably won't even fit our trucks without custom brackets, Prinsu universal racks (https://prinsudesignstudio.com/category/universal-top-racks/) and Smittybilt Adjust-a-Mount brackets (https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-AM-4-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00AQFE8BG) might be a viable option...albeit a $900 one, after tax, shipping, and some additional hardware. To that extent, my buddy @Rockit and I are in the process of making our own base racks out of extrusions that are made-to-order (cut-to-length and machined for assembly). I was planning to start a new thread on the topic when both racks were complete, but maybe some info here/now might spark some ideas. Cost-wise, we're also well under half the cost of the Prinsu setup, with a result that'll fit our exact needs. These slotted extrusions are great because you can mount practically anything, anywhere, and there are already a bunch of off-the-shelf accessories for Rotopax, Hi-Lifts, etc (Prinsu has a full line-up of them). I'm fabbing up all our mounting and accessory brackets, like awning mounts and lighting tabs, but also have some ideas for other items. But these racks are far more versatile options than any basket I can think of. They're also lightweight, extremely strong, and corrosion resistant. Cost is a little higher than an off-the-shelf basket might be, but the versatility makes it worth it. For Rockit's QX4, we're doing a 50"L x 42"W x 2"H rack using 2"x1" and 1"x1" quarter-round extrusions, with the LH side being 72"L for full awning support, like so: I made some brackets that'll get the rack about 1" off the center of the roof (the height varies because of the curvatures F/R and L/R on the roof), and around 1.5" at the corners. The brackets are also slotted so the rack can be raised another inch if we need clearance anywhere, or to level it out: Since I have an SE roof rack, mine will be a drop-in rack that's 52"L x 36", and uses 2"x1" and 1"x1" extrusions:
    1 point
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