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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/13/2020 in all areas

  1. You can just cut off the old clamp if you like. I've done it to both connectors on mine. Just try not to let falling copper wire strands fall down on to the alternator.
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  2. Pictures don’t do it justice. I’ve been behind & in front of all iterations - especially as we’ve started to make it our practice to run with lights on for safety due to the congestion on trails these days & the occasional idiot tearing down a trail in a Side by Side (SxS). This last version turned out great. It’s really rich & full. It was also economical - I’ll be following suit.
    1 point
  3. No thread. Just open the light, pull the lens and take it down to your local Tap Plastics. They can size it to the existing piece you have and cut it right there on the spot. If you prefer to do it yourself just find a high quality polycarbonate in your choice of color and cut to size. Just make sure to reseal it or you'll have water intrusion.
    1 point
  4. A little before and after. Cleaned up the rig from last weekends trail run with @RainGoat
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  5. Unfortunately, the 9004 dual filament bulb doesn’t lend itself to LEDs well. Most are blinding to oncoming drivers. For nearly 2 decades I’ve used PIAA H4/9004 Xtreme White (4150K) Headlights High/Low 60/55w. They’re their XTRA double wound high performance filaments, that’s why they say they’re equivalent to 135/125w. Since they’re Halogen they work perfectly in the OEM projectors. There are higher temp versions, 5,000K, 6,000K - I went 4,150K which is close to natural sunlight back in the day but I’d probably do 5,000K today. They are pricey but the quality is superb & mine lasted 50-75K despite the truck’s almost exclusive use on offroad trips & many of those years in ultra-harsh AZ. I tried some competitors in my sedan, including Philips & Sylvannia & they burned out in 1-2 years - the PIAA were much more cost effective in the long run.
    1 point
  6. I’d look at cleaning & lubricating the hatch mechanism. It’s pretty easy to pull the rear hatch trim. Also, inspect the metal latch catch for damage - some get slowly worn away with vibration over time.
    1 point
  7. If I had to do another SAS (Im planning on another once I graduate), I'd lower it some (around 4-6" total lift), change the angle and mounting location for the upper mount of the coilover/airshocks, put the axle side coilover/airshock mounts an inch wider on each side, ditch the doubler, make a different trans crossmember with a slot for the front driveshaft, triangulated 4 link instead of parallel, ditch the cradle. In an ideal world, I would sas a 3.5 next time. A bigger motor couldn't hurt either.. Overall I think it was fine considering it sat around 26" of lift. Less lift would solve so many of the headaches. I never experienced any death wobble or shaking luckily.
    1 point
  8. Yeah what i was thinking was mounting the knock sensor to the top of the engine in the hole of one of the bracket cable holders. Just get the same size of bolt but longer and hold it up there, only thing i do not know is if the KS harness has more than two wires. I need it to have two to splice it in. I guess i will just order the harness and hope it does not have the injector wires in the harness. The reason why people were using the 99 maxima harness for their pathfinder relocation was because it only had the two KS wires in the harness where as the R50 harness had the injector wires in the same harness. Well might have to guinea pig it. If it works out i will take pics or video of what i do and post it in to the "How-To" section for others that may stumble upon this problem and don't have time to take apart the manifold.
    1 point
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