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Hey man, I’m not a super active member here, but... I parked next to you at the Y the other day. That thing is a beast!

Update, in case anyone else has this problem. The actuator failed again - I haven't disassembled it, but I'm assuming another gear tooth broke inside and jammed up the actuator. I just removed the rear lift gate panel, removed the rod that connects the door lock actuator to the handle/latch/lock, and am using the key to lock/unlock the hatch. I don't know that I'm willing to pay $200 or so for a new actuator (Nissan PN 90550-0W021), since I don't use the hatch too much. As long as I can use it with a key, I can probably live with it as is.

Your truck is wired for the tire carrier, they just have the connector for the pin switch taped back on the harness. It appears that the wire for the switch has become shorted to the body somewhere. About the only things you can do, is perform a visual inspection of the wiring harness until you find the damage. It might be possible to simply remove the light bulb for the indicator, but that is just a band-aid, you have one wire that is damaged, odds are others are going to do the same if the problem area is not found and repaired.

27/5000 testing the flex ?

Lake mead top White rocks BLM camp western Utah. This 97 just finished off a 1676 mile road trip. Stockton CA - Winnemucca NV - Stockton UT - Lake Mead - Stockton CA.

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I took the hatch panel off per R50JR's instructions this morning (I was waiting for cooler weather, as my shop isn't air conditioned). It came apart pretty easily with a minimum of broken panel clips, and I found that lock actuator isn't working. When I removed the bar from the actuator (that goes from the actuator to the latch) and pushed over on it manually, the hatch opens normally. I priced the actuators thinking they'd be cheap, like a passenger door actuator. Wrong - They're $250 or so. I decided to do a little more looking online and found this thread: https://forums.nicoclub.com/lift-rear-gate-latch-problem-parts-help-t455161.html I took apart the actuator and found the same broken gear tooth as Gcohen6 describes. I removed the broken tooth, reassembled the actuator, and reinstalled in the the liftgate. It works now - the broken tooth must have jammed up the actuator. I don't know if it will work indefinitely, but for now it's functional and thanks to R50JR's instructions getting the panel off to get to the actuator isn't hard, so I'll replace the actuator if this one jams up again. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Thanks for the replies everyone - I'm going to see about removing the inside panel per R50JR's instructions above. I have the service manual referrerd to and found the diagram on BT-17 (thanks Slartibartfast). I'll post up the results.

230000 miles on the original U-joints in my 93. More than a few of them off pavement in Utahs forgiving climate. No problems with them, so no plans to replace. Plenty of other things to work on if I can find the interest. Working on automobiles 50+ hours per week, I don't have much interest in working on mine.

When you trade up from a lowered civic trying to get in the off-road scene Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk

So, as someone who works with tools for a living, I can testify that these are pure sheit, but they'll get the job done a time or two... The world is your oyster security fastener remover kit. http://www.harborfreight.com/33-pc-security-bit-set-68459.html B

Your seatbelt doesn't retract and you've given up trying to fix it.