Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/2020 in all areas

  1. I’ve lurked enough on this forum, so this is my little contribution. Hopefully helpful for people wanting more storage in their center compartment. I got this idea from a picture of a Land Cruiser using Wits End APU-1 for EDC organizing mounted under the console lid. Did a little measuring and found a decent fit for pretty cheap. This fits perfectly in my ‘01 QX4 center console, not sure if Pathfinders have identical center armrest? The QX4 has a top compartment and a bottom, larger compartment, each with its own flip top lid. I found these $10 elastic organizer panels from Propper. One is 10”x5” which fits under the top lid. The other is 7”x5” which fits under the bottom lid. https://www.amazon.com/Propper-10-Elastic-Organizer-Panel/dp/B011TWWYIS https://www.amazon.com/Propper-Elastic-Organizer-Panel-Black/dp/B00V7F6NAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=propper+7x5&qid=1591340857&sr=8-2 For the top lid using the 10”x5” panel, I used some heavy duty double-sided 1”x1” sticky pads and 1” Velcro loop strips cut to the same square sizes. Stuck the Velcro on the pad and the pad under the lid, total of 6 and lined up with the hooks on the back of the panel. (See progress pictures). For the bottom lid, I used the 7”x5” organizar panel. There is a removable plastic plate that divides the top console from the bottom, so I did the same process under this plastic plate using the 1”x1” double sided squats and Velcro loop strips cut to size. I have to cut some squares a bit smaller to fit the geometry molded under the plate (See picture). I also double stacked the double-sided 1”x1” squares to protrude past the plastic molding. Once I stuck the Panel into the Velcro squares, this things holds sturdy, hasn’t gotten loose even in the hot sun. Adds much more storage pens, knives, flashlights, really any EDC items. (See picture of final install). hope this helps someone. Ask me any questions. I’ll try to add better pictures. thanks!
    1 point
  2. In 2007, I was looking for a Jeep Cherokee and kept coming up short. Asking prices were too high, AC didn't work, and they weren't comfortable for someone over 6 feet tall. On the way home one evening after I was out looking, I came across this 2001 Pathfinder for sale and bought it that night. I drove it for 9 years, did a bunch of off roading, put nearly 100,000 miles on it, and then regrettably sold it, stupidly thinking I didn't need it anymore. I never was able to make it into what I wanted it to be, but it was always extremely reliable, comfortable, and I got a ton of use out of the cargo space in it. Earlier this year, I was bored and browsing Craigslist and found this 02 for sale nearby for $2800. 150k miles, super clean other than some small cosmetic issues and a little bit of interior wear. It has a factory LSD too! I bought it and spent the next few weeks hitting every junkyard in the area to fix all the little issues. I even found the factory Bose radio for it with a working 6 disc changer and tape deck. With the help of NPORA, I bought all the parts to lift it and overhauled the suspension. It's now sitting on OME springs (MD rear, HD front), KYB shocks/struts, and 265/70/16 Duratracs. It has a WD21 transfer case skid plate underneath and I installed Warn hubs, a CB radio, and a Yakima Load Warrior. I'd much prefer one of the lower profile roof racks in the pictures here, can anyone point me in the right direction to get one? I'm glad to have a good overlanding vehicle again. It's been a lot of fun putting it together. I've been a total lurker up to this point, but thank you all for the mountains of info I was able to dig through to get it to where it is now. Next mods are probably more skid plates and some rock sliders. I also have a buddy selling his 93 XE...so pretty soon I may have two Pathfinders!
    1 point
  3. That's not a problem when checking the cams lol it just makes double checking the distributor easier since it's already lined up mechanically Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. As of today, it's driveable. For the struts, I rented two pairs of spring compressors from O'reilly and Autozone. They were identical other than the color of their plastic case. Compressing the OEM coil seemed easy enough other than the jack screw rods invading the same physical space as the strut coil cap. Upon removing the coil, it was apparent the gas struts were shot. Compressible by hand with about 5 lbs or less force. It didn't really want to rebound. Later during the reassembly, the gas strut rod kept sagging down until I held it up and put the nut on top. It's weird because I haven't felt or seen any signs of bad front suspension behavior on the vehicle. I assumed the struts were good since my '01 R50 nose dives with brake pedal use whereas the '02 doesn't. Since it rides ok as far as my tastes go, and I really don't want to wait for KYBs to ship from Rock Auto, I just moved on to the reassembly stage. Compressing the AC coils by hand sucks. The coil is slightly tapered but when it's being compressed, the taper becomes exaggerated which changes the geometry of the jack screw rods on the compressors. They push into the strut foot and/or cap depending on how they are oriented. You have to use a set and compress it, then when you run out of room, Use the other pair of compressors on different coil sections to continuing compressing. Repeat this a few times until you have the spring squished enough with enough cap clearance. Then when you start decompressing, you have to play musical chairs with the compressors at different spots just to get them off the spring. Half of the time, there's not enough clearance to fit a socket on the rod so you have to use an open end wrench. So for the second strut, I paid a local shop to swap the coil for me. I set masking tape sections on the components so all they had to do was align the tape when they reassemble. New oem strut bearings were also installed during reassembly and the orange triangular gaskets were reused. Once I reinstalled the struts on the vehicle, I put the wheels back on the front and back before I tightened the 3 top strut bolts. With the vehicle being supported by it's tires and wheels, I used a ruler to measure rear end height, took the rear wheels off, then used a jack to lift the back up to the previously measured height using the diff as the jack point. At this point, I used my torque wrench and tightened all the trailing arm bolts, panhard bolt and sway bar link bracket bolts. The lift is definitely noticeable in the rear. Old suspension yeilded 14.8" at the bottom of the hitch vs 19.4" now. Back end of running board height: 11.8" vs 16.0". Somehow I failed to record the original front running board height but with the lift, it's now 15". I'm curious how much of that I'll lose when everything settles in. So I drove it around town a bit and the rear end feels amazing. I've become so accustomed to death sway that I now have to relearn how to drive without anticipating sway over road irregularities. I also don't hear the thump in the rear end where the bushings shift under torque load changes at a low speeds. The coils are great too since now I can cross intersections at full speed without kissing the bump stops when the whole family is in the car and I have no complaints about the Bilsteins. I don't feel any harshness or bumpiness from the AC coils yet. The front feels a bit funny, but I suspect that's because my camber is off until I get it aligned tomorrow. Once it's aligned, I'm going to throw on the steelies and my Warn hubs. Additionally, I extended the rear diff breather hose from 16" to 5'. It now routes up and over to the fuel door area.
    1 point
  6. You could get creative and make that space into another storage box and/or just put a Dashmat over it.
    1 point
  7. About $35.00-$40.00 for the entire dash with the airbag attached from Foss or Pick N pull. I go to both all of the time.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...