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Patiently waiting to get these Wildpeak AT3Ws installed with Pro comp 69 wheels.

Installed OME HD + Fluerys 1" spacer up front and LR9449 in the rear.

Wow, that turned out really good for a DIY repair like that!

My old 3.2 diesel r50 flexing it out on the way to Montgomery hut on the west coast. Procomp es326500 rear shocks, would definitely recommend. These require the rear spring to have a free height of at least 400 mm.

in villa gessel argentina

Florida sunsets

For historical purposes I'm going to finish off this story. Initial problem was an oil leak at the bottom of the transmission bell housing. There was oil elsewhere on the engine but after 200k miles that didn't surprise me. Talked it over with some friends and came to the conclusion it was the rear main oil seal. To replace the RMOS I had to drop the transmission. I followed the Haynes manual and used the service manual to get an idea where some of the parts were because some of them I had to go in blind. I was going to try and list the steps but there were too many. Some notes I can offer from this operation are as follows: 1.) I needed two universal joints on a socket to get to the crankshaft sensor on top of the bell housing. It's a blind bolt so it's hard to get to but was easy to put back in. 2.) I had to order the copper crush washers for the transmission line from Nissan, it didn't seem like anyone else had them. 3.) If you are removing the transmission entirely from under the truck take into account the height of the jack when you decide the height you will jack up the truck. Luckily I didn't need to take it out from under the car but the 10 inches I had the truck jacked up was not enough if I wanted to move the transmission from under the truck when using this adapter transmission adapter. 4.) The transmission fill tube is about a half inch too long to remove from the truck when the transmission is on the truck. You have to remove the transmission to remove the transmission fill tube. Conversely when putting the transmission back on make sure to insert the fill tube as you're raising the jack into position. 5.) Two people would be really helpful when lining up the transmission for re-installation. 6.) Do not use water based paint when marking the relative positions of the drive shaft and the drive plate to torque converter. I did and after a few weeks of condensation it was almost entirely gone. 7.) To remove the top bolts on the transmission you have to lower it, use a deep socket on an extension and a universal joint to reach the bolt. 8.) The passenger side upper bell housing bolt has an air line right in front of it. You can get around it, don't work about breaking anything because the bracket that holds the air line in place is held in place by the same bolt you're removing. The whole thing will just fall out once you remove the bolt. The air line is just coming from the back of the transmission and ends about where that bolt is. The end of it just hangs in space. 9.) For putting the bolts back in on top of the bell housing I couldn't get my hand to hold on to the bolt at the same time I was trying to get the socket in place, there was not enough room. I put gasket sealant in the socket, put the bolt in the socket and then waited about 30 minutes to let it set. I was then able to just use the socket with the bolt in it to get it into place and screw it in halfway. the gasket material easily let go when I pulled the socket back out. 10.) The Haynes manual recommended 9 quarts of transmission fluid, the service manual says 7.5, the service manual is right. I took the car to the shop after the job was complete to have them look at that rattling I described in a previous post, it turned out it wasn't the transmission at all but the heat cover over the catalytic converter. Not the first time I have been fooled by that tin. And after all of that, the oil leak wasn't from the rear main seal. The oil leak was from the valve cover gaskets leaking down the back of the engine making it look like it was coming from the transmission bell housing. Replacing the valve cover gaskets was a much easier job. Neither the Haynes manual nor the service manual do a good job describing how to remove the upper air intake manifold though.