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Just a little update to painting all the trim,handles,vents,tag housing etc Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Good luck buddy. If using tape the green 3m 401+ works best in my opinion. The better tape job will totally reflect the paint so take your time and you should be ok brother. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Just got done removing the fender flares, brush guard, and tire carrier so I can practice painting the stuff I'll leave on the car (side trim stripes, mirrors, pillars, etc). I have no idea what I am doing but this makes me feel more confident... it's not going to be a waste of time! Wish me luck, and cheers!

Nice work!

Thank you so much for the wealth of information!!! I’ll take some photos tomorrow of the center arm rest / console and figure out the color code. I’m doing all kinds of fun work tomorrow. Got the brush guard off tonight, gonna take off all the black trim bits for a repaint and to do some rust mitigation. Cheers!

We're going to level 3 (which is pretty much level 4 with UberEats) on Tuesday. Then to Level 2, which allows restricted domestic travel, in a further fortnight. As a practicing doctor at a New Zealand hospital, frankly I am very grateful for the lockdown. If not for Ardern's quick response, we would be in dire straights currently, I think (based off what's happened in the UK, US, Italy etc). Anyhow, unfortunately I lost the progress shots off my old phone when it broke, but I have a few later shots I took. Essentially the hooks were mounted to 6x150x75 mm angle iron, drilled to fit the factory mounts on the side of the chassis, with an additional 6 mm plate underneath to the radiator support, so the hooks bolted to 12 mm of steel. I used grade 8.8 M10 bolts torqued to the correct spec (43 Nm) to mount to the chassis. The hooks themselves use grade 8.8 M12 bolts, which I torqued to the correct 78 Nm. The design and build is very strong, much stronger than what the mounts are bolted to. I would however recommend putting a single piece of angle iron across the lower radiator support to brace it, instead of two individual plates, one either side like I did. I bent my lower rad support doing a big pull with a bridle, and a front lower brace would have prevented this. The iron is oriented so the 150 mm side points up. The 75 mm side points out horizontally and the hook bolts to this. The lateral bracing plate sits underneath the 75 mm side, and connects the hook bolts to the lower radiator support captive nut where the factory hooks bolt onto it. The lateral bracing plate should not be built in this manner - rather it should be constructed out of a single piece of plate or angle iron to tie both sides together and brace the lower rad support across its full width. It looks so shiny in this picture because it had just been returned from the panelbeater after someone backed into it outside my house and destroyed the front right corner...

https://www.mudstuck.co.nz/collections/snorkels/products/snorkel-4x4-nissan-r50-mudstuck

My old 3.2 diesel r50 flexing it out on the way to Montgomery hut on the west coast. Procomp es326500 rear shocks, would definitely recommend. These require the rear spring to have a free height of at least 400 mm.

Florida sunsets

@Mrelcocko We would have to ask @ferrariowner123 I believe he used Yahoo auctions Japan. That's where he tends to source lots of JDM treasures, but I'm not 100% sure about the origin story of the steering wheel.

I finally got around to doing a little bit of the painting on the trim of my 96 Pathy. 7 step process 1.Scuff, 2.clean, 3.prime(2 coats), 4.24 hour dry, 5.light scuff, 6.clean, 7. paint(at least 2 coats or more if so desired) Using 3m scuff pad, rust-oleum self etching primer, rust-oleum matte black paint (Custom Shop) clean rags, oil and grease remover. I painted the running boards on my 97 Q six months ago and they still look as good as the day I painted them. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk