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Not too long ago I was underneath my Quey checking things out getting ready to do some undercoating and noticed that there was a wire connected to my exhaust pipe flange then going to one of my heat shields for grounding. I never noticed it before it was kind of a shock to me because I had no idea why that wire would even exist thinking maybe someone put it on not by the factory. So I crawled underneath my Pathfinder to see if there's one on it as well and sure enough it had one too rusted away. Now no question put on by the Nissan. From the research I've done and all the literature I've read there's a lot of people that say you don't need it and then there's a lot of people that say you do need it. I've read that it suppresses electricity that can affect your radio and other electrical components also that it may affect your O2 sensors. I've had a pesky O2 sensor code for quite a while. P0156 Bank 2 sensor 2. My check engine light is usually own due to this code. I just haven't got around to addressing the problem yet. Sometimes the CEL would actually go off on its own but it would come back on eventually. Here's my scenario on the ground wire. I definitely would put it on if you do not have one or if yours is rusted away because since I put mine on, P0156 code has not come back. Whether or not it had anything to do with the CEL being on who knows? It's been 3 weeks and light is still off and no little amber light stareing me in the face. If anyone has any info on this please share. #R50OBSEESED #j.cox I didn't want to take the chance of breaking a nut so I decided to ground mine using a hose clamp and a piece of wire that would be used for a tailgate. So spread the hell out of it with anti seize Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

You’re right I should have looked into it further. I typed “nrc9447” into google and got a bunch of nonsense results apart from that one site I shared. I’m glad there are other sources and I’ll definitely look into the one you posted. The condescending attitude is unnecessary though. I get it, everyone here has spent years learning about mods and trying everything under the sun before settling on something that works. The thing is, I’m fresh out of college and on a tight budget so I’m not really in a position to mess up countless times. Like I stated in my original post, I tried to research as much as I could and lurk on here for a few weeks before posting so that I wouldn’t waste your guys time, but I’m really trying to lock down the specifics as much as I can before making purchases so I decided to post and ask for clarification. There’s so much conflicting info even on this forum about what works and what doesn’t, so it’s hard to sort through sometimes. Anyway, I really appreciate your responses and hope to stick around and keep learning.

https://jalopnik.com/does-tire-rotation-include-tightening-lug-nuts-michiga-1839270921 Keep in mind that this could be interpreted as being specific to this case. But also consider that president set in courts can and does have far reaching implications and can be hard to change once set. I'm not defending nor arguing against either side, just presenting this article for your review.

I still think of them as the “pound” sign

Thank you!! It took a lot of measuring and remeasuring to get it to where its welded center on the brackets and not crooked. Ive yet to jack it up by it with the highlift but ive done some jumping on it and am happy with its strength for at very least a deer deflector Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

The bumper looks awesome man!

Yeah thats true but i do not want to drill into it or spend money on a two inch clamp for it, id rather get new lights for the front and wire these into a switch and into my reverse lights because ive been thinking my reverse is pretty dark at night. Plus would be nice to have highbeams for those tailgaters But mostly i just want new lights lol. Ill probably still end up having to get those clamps no matter what Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

You can easily attach those lights to the tube. Tube gives you endless mounting possibilities.

Far more often than not, shops around here just blast them on with the rattle gun with no concern of under/over torquing. Every time I’ve had new tires put on at the shop I use(wife’s uncle), I’ve had to fix the lug nuts. They get the tire pressure perfect but the lug nuts, not so much.

Lets invest in your research skills a little bit..... https://www.google.com/search?q=nrc9447+springs&oq=nrc&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j0l4.3465j1j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 If you follow the above link for a google search on "nrc9447 springs", you'll see it yields way more than one result, with lrdirect.com, the recommended buying website, showing up as the first suggestion. Post #155 on the thread that was linked in my previous response lists lrdirect as the preferred buying website, and also explains how, although the spring belongs on the front of a land rover, it fits perfectly in the rear of a pathfinder. It also has some shock advice towards the end. I'm not trying to bite off heads here, I'm just trying to save us all some time and encourage you to do thorough research. You'll have the most fun upgrading your pathy if you know how everything works because you researched it yourself. It's more rewarding that way. As for the function of your OE spec shocks paired with LR coils, it will be easier for your shocks to bottom out, and the down travel of your suspension will be limited by the length of those shocks. I can't say whether or not you'll notice them reaching full extension anytime you're on the road. Regardless of that, the shock will still function safely and normally when paired with those springs. If i remember correctly, factory spec is about 24", and common lift shocks are 26". The other popular option for 9447/9449 coils is bilstein's 29.7" shock. It's recommended that if you go up to the 29" shock that you extend your rear brake line, diff breather, and bumpstops.

Dang I'd love to have it man finances are tight right now if it was tax time I'd be all for it, never mind the shipping. Around the end of January beginning of February I'll touch base with you to see if there's anything around you available. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

KiwiTerrano, We will be traveling to Queenstown June of 2020. Will be in Queenstown for three nights two days prior to hunting. MTG

tightened and torqued down the 4WD spindle nut and the clunk in the front is gone!

Ok I’m thinking you might be right about the Land Rover springs in the rear. In terms of sizing I think the 9447s should be appropriate for around a 2 inch lift height. When I do a google search, this is the only site that pops up. https://www.steveparkers.com/product/nrc-9447-defender-90-front-coil-spring-blue-yellow-stripe/ It says that they are FRONT coils though. Is this correct or will they fit the R50 rear? One issue that comes up with using the Land Rover coils is that I just bought a set of Gabriel ultra shocks for the rear because I only anticipated around an inch of height gained with the OME springs. Will the Land Rover springs offer too much lift to safely use in conjunction with the Gabriel ultras? I chose them because they have pretty much the longest extended length out of all of the factory spec replacement shocks and someone in another thread recommended them for use with a lift around 2 inches or less.

I dropped my rear drum on my foot last night. Broke my toe. Hurt so bad I cried. #butterfingers Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Definitely not trying to be a smarta$$, but I've been using hashtags on here for most of my residency. #IreallydontknowhowtoanswerthatLOL Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

#whyarewespeakinginhashtags #ohgoditsgotmetoo #sendhelp

Nice! Should come to NZ, in the South Island you can see pretty much all of those options on any given day

fitting 32’s on OME MD springs will be pretty much impossible. 32’s would necessitate either 1: AC springs (4x4parts.com) Or 2: OME 2928 HD springs and, after they’ve settled, a 1” strut spacer would be recommended. For the rear, Land Rover springs would work best. Check page 7 of the below thread for the best estimates of lift height and where to order If you add wheel spacers, you might consider only putting them on the front so that your tires in the back still tuck easily inside the wheel well. As far as specific brands to look at, I can’t personally recommend any, nor do I recall they’re being much of a forum consensus. Of the people who do run spacers on stock wheels, I can think of @02_Pathy and @hawairish

I put a light coating of molybdenum grease on the body of the bolt that is in the bushings. That helps prevent the bolt from seizing in the bushing. That makes future repairs easier.

Did a full polish and wax, and wow even being a 17 year old truck that paint looks amazing. Also replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor, and also fixed the tachometer side of lights. Next is knock sensor, O2 sensor, climate control lights. Then hopefully we can begin on the fun stuff!

The post speaks for itself. What a ridiculously good looking WD21, and I couldn't believe the price... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-nissan-pathfinder/