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You might want to try Nissan for many of the parts. You will want a timing chain kit. When you have it apart, you will want to inspect both of the timing covers closely for damaged gaskets in the internal oil passages. The front cover is known to have the gasket fail between the cover and the passage plates screwed in the backside of the cover. Those gaskets are not available as far as I know, but can be easily made. When I was at the dealership we just replaced the timing cover when they developed internal leaks. It was not terribly expensive. Those passages are for the variable cam timing phasers, so when they leak, you have cam timing codes and poor running pop up. There is a couple of tiny screens in there too, be careful not to lose them. Many of the gaskets are from a tube, but there is a bunch of little O-rings used. I suggest getting a FSM for your engine and read it. Use the exploded diagrams to make a list of all the little parts you are going to be replacing. I am going to warn you now, Nissan engines are not inexpensive to rebuild. Years ago I built a Z24/Z22 Frankenstein for my 1980 200SX, and it wound up costing about $1000. And it was a primitive SOHC 4 cyl. Also, they have very tight tolerances and will not tolerate mistakes very well. Good luck, do it right and you will have a very good engine when done.

As an aside for those reading- When you lift with a lift spring (OME, AC, etc) we put the spring into OEM spec struts. The strut limits the total length the assembly can be and therefore limits the total droop of your suspension. When you lift with a spacer, the spacer goes on top of the strut assembly. Therefore the total length possible will be the strut length plus the spacer. The CV axle has limits to the angle it can be at before it binds, on stock suspension that angle can't normally be reached. Typically with lift springs the strut length still isn't long enough to cause binding issues. If you have lift springs + spacer, or just a big spacer, then you're extending the length limit and could reach the binding angles when approaching your max droop. That's one of the reasons why lift springs are different than lift spacers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my understanding.

Someone take a profile picture of the seal and I’ll try to find it in bulk

Make sure you loctite the power valve screws while you put it back together, they're known for dropping into the VQ engines and causing problems. Also, the EM section of the service manual (which you can download from here if you haven't) should have all the procedures/torque specs/etc you need for the rebuild. Good luck!

Its manual, so no worries there.

Also, searching for VQ35DE parts as opposed to VG35DE might yield better results, as that is the engine you have.

I found that trimmer line works great for clearing the drains and for pulling wires through the car.

You might want to check the drains also. They are located in the front corners of the sun roof recess and drain down the A pillars. Just run a stiff wire or equivalent down the drain to open it. Test it by pouring a little water into the drain and watching to see if it runs out down at the rear of the front fender. I had a similar problem and after I cleaned the drains the leak went away.

QX4 tail lights would require doing something about the reverse lights (at least for post facelift). I do really like how they look though.

Gotta say I like either of the stock R50 tail lights or the QX4 tail lights better than the 2fast2furious Altezza aftermarket stuff.

I appreciate the feedback and agree with both of you. I originally smoked the taillights to give it a contrast to the silver paint. Now that it's painted, I have thought of changing them back or even getting some aftermarket euro ones. Just don't know how the euro ones would look on it though. Also going to switch the front headlights out to the black lens ones vs the ones I currently have that are sprayed over. Just waiting for a deal on them. Mjo, are they ever really done? Lol. Really the only other things I have planned to do to it is clean up the under carriage spray it black and add some red accents to it tastefully, build a skid plate for the front to protect the radiator, clean up the engine bay/engine & re-route the intake to help protect the engine when river crossing and possibly build a swing arm tire carrier. My current rear tire setup was a temporary solution from the start, but will be the way it is for some time while I think of a design for the swing arm. Other than that, I don't plan to do too much more to it. Maybe some engine enhancements to try to increase the HP a little, but nothing crazy. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

I gotta agree, non tinted taillights would probably look better, looks pretty good though otherwise! How much longer do you anticipate before it's "done"?

Dude I absolutely love the color, it looks super good. I gotta ask though, why the tinted lights? ?? The regular red would match well with the red you have going on and look really good, and tint like that is not at all safe. Cars with tinted lights are impossible to see at night, and the only thing that really catches the eye of someone behind you at that point is the reflective license plate, which appears to be covered by your tire carrier lol

Spent part of the day re-badging. Blacked out the rear emblems and added a nismo badge. Also made a one off side body decalto replace the ones I had on the glass, creating an entirely new R50 trim level- The Nismo expedition off road trim package, lol. Really digging the flat black/red contrast to the new color. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

Finally got around to making some slimline nerf bars from the stock mounting hardware and 1-1/4" steel pipe. I primarily.made them to deflect rocks and road debry. Hopefully they will protect the body a little over having nothing at all. Also got part of the bug out kit and rear tire rack back on. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk