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What elevation do you live at? This will affect the answer significantly. Both here in Bozeman and back in Dillon where I used to live the elevation is about 5000 feet, and mine isn't even happy trying to do the speed limit (80) on it's own. When I lived in Dillon I had to tow my friend's Miata (about 2000 lbs) back from Butte and it definitely noticed it on even the slightest inclines. I also didn't go above 45mph since I was flat towing him with a strap. I haven't really pulled anything with my tan one which is a manual and has the 4.63's instead of the 4.36's, but it holds its own significantly better by itself that the auto does. You'd probably be better off with your manual than you would with an auto, and there's no doubt that it COULD tow it, but that doesn't mean you SHOULD.

Hello I am new to the forum group. I am buying a 2001 Pathfinder LE 3.5 V6. I have some plans with it already for the exhaust, im thinking about taking off both mufflers and running duals. after the cats there will be mufflers and then side exits or axle dumps. or take off the cats then just mufflers. which one will be better for a great sound. my buddy had a 3.9 dakota with thrush welded, sounded like a v8 at idle, i want something that sounds like that! also thinking doing a 5.6 swap. opinions needed. thanks

I would say the R50 (Pathfinder) will be better off-road stock - more flex in the rear end due to the 5 link setup. Might be a wash depending on which has a LSD (check the diffs for the sticker) - also likely much more comfortable on the trip to and from as I would expect the VQ in a 2000 R50 vs the VG in the WD22 (Xterra). Even better if your R50 has the All Mode transfer case. That said the WD22 is a simpler body on frame platform, so much easier to lift compared to the rather difficult unibody R50 - so if your going to Mod it - the WD22 would likely win out in the end from sheer tire size and travel due to the lift. Lots more available parts due to the larger commonality with the W/D21 and W/D22. I had a modded to heck WD21 for a long time and it did excellent work offroad, but man - that platform is just...old. The R50 was designed ~1994 and the W/D21 was designed ~1982. WD22 is really just the same truck with new sheet metal and a cheaper rear suspension. The airbags are nice.

Another approach would be to use the high beam wire near the switch to trigger the light bar. That is upstream of the drl module and won't trigger the light bar relay. You could also just get another switch, they are cheap. Would also protect you from official attention since it is illegal to operate a light bar on public roads in most places. Just wire it in so that it prevents the light bar from turning on unless you want it on with the high beams. The factory or dealer installed foglights in my path were wired this way, but triggered with the low beams. I didn't like that set up, so moved the trigger to the park lights so I could run the fogs without the headlights, a more desirable setup in heavy snowstorms. At least it did back when we had heavy snowstorms here...

Unless you are in a cool area I can't imagine why the belt wouldn't have been replaced if AC worked. The compressor pulley should freewheel when the clutch isn't engaged. I can't remember if the R50 will engage the clutch with the ignition on but engine not running. Did you try doing that and see if the pulley will rotate a little? No real harm in putting a belt on and seeing if it works. Worst case the thing howls like a mad man. When you do, be sure to check the tensioner pulley freewheels and doesn't click or sound rough. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I believe you'll need a resistor and a relay to accomplish your goal. The DRL voltage is usually quite low, somewhere between 3 and 6 volts. (Use a voltmeter to check the DRL voltage.) If you tap into the high beams for your light bar, the DRL voltage is still high enough to trigger the lights. You need to add a resistor between the high beam wire and your automotive relay so that the relay will not trip until it gets enough voltage. The size of the resistor will vary based on the relay's "ON" voltage and the DRL circuit's output voltage.

Great trip with some of the PNW folks this past weekend @Stpickens and his dad in a slick kitted out Subaru, @zakzackzachary @02_Pathy @Citron and @SteelerCam. Ran section 1 of the Washington Back-country Discovery Route and got my technical fix afterwards at Jones Creek with @02_Pathy

The 3.5 a significant jump over our 3.3 in terms of towing ability. I personally wouldn't tow just about anything with my 3.3 other than very very light loads.

The 3.3 can barely tow heavy on flat ground. I can’t remember exactly how much weight it was but I think it was about 4000# including the trailer and it was nearly unable. 0-60 was seriously like 30 seconds or more and I had to drop down into 1st gear for steep-ish grades and 2nd for anything else. Lighter towing isn’t as hateful but I still end up dropping into 2nd for steeper grades, which on highways means I’m doing like 35-40mph. Empty trailer isn’t too bad. I can make my way pulling empty by choosing to wait for good opportunity when pulling out into traffic and the likes. Overall the 3.3 just isn’t able to handle its own when towing and it really shines a light on how underpowered the motor is for the weight of the vehicle. Lastly I have an automatic trans and I noticed the thing doesn’t shift the same after towing heavy. Soft shifts are softer and it’s since cleared up but it did have a bump midway thru 1st gear every morning directly after towing heavy.