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Get your kybs from rockauto. Won’t find a better price. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1997,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1212051,suspension,strut,7584. No such thing as longer struts that I’m aware of that wouldn’t require serious modification. You won’t need longer ones for 2.5 inches of lift though. And don’t replace the control arms. Aftermarket ones are junk. Just replace the bushings with poly https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nolathane-Trailing-Arm-Lower-Bushing-FOR-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-R50-46045/283156264183?fits=Model%3APathfinder&epid=2294724819&hash=item41ed6db4f7:g:kkAAAOSwk~VcvjZO

I have one in my windshield...I wasn't really sure what it was until I looked in the FSM. I thought it might've been a front defroster element at first (in addition to the normal defrost vents). Some vehicles have them in the same manner, but it would be uncommon for a brand like Nissan to do it...I've only seen them on higher end brands. My stock antenna is pretty much completely gone (broke off down inside the housing), so the diversity antenna seems to be doing its job. I'm probably going to replace the real antenna with some kind of stubby since I don't use the radio that much, especially once I replace the crappy bargain basement deck that's in it.

I linked to that in my original post. What's listed there doesn't seem to match what's actually in my gear cluster. The T5s @Strato_54 linked look like they'll work.

Hello everyone. I just picked up this 98 Pathfinder SE 5speed 4x4. Looking to do some minor mods for offroading. In the middle of rebuilding the suspension components, lifting it 2in and a manual hub. Next will be the wheels. I havent decided to get aftermarket or stick with the stock. Suggestion?

The previous owner of my rig put one one (with a throttle body spacer). It's not a true cold air intake...just basically removed the factory air box and used an adapter with a cone filter. It's probably actually worse than the factory air box given our already scorching air temps here (only 104ish today, which is a tiny bit cooler than usual for this time of year). Having the engine heat on top of that can't do good things I'd think. I'm just going to stick with it until I go full snorkel, though. If I weren't planning on that, I'd probably pick up an original air box and reinstall that. The open filter does make a nice, almost turbo-like hiss when you get on the throttle, though... ?

Not worth it, just makes the intake noise noisier. No power gain. Tried it, save your money.

Sounds like a solid plan. Polyurethane bushings are a great upgrade for the R50 platform and provide a lot of bang for your buck. I have changed all rubber bushings on my truck with SuperPro front poly bushings and Chasis Unlimited rear control arm poly bushings with fantastic results. Id reccomend the upgrade to anyone with the budget and time. Thay said- Id argue that the Nolathane products Ive used recently arent the best quality available, but OK if your on a tight budget. The bushings available from AC(SuperPro) and Energy suspension are great quality and worth the additional cost. Energy suspension runs slightly higher on hardness scale(70-80 on the durometer scale) than the Superpro units(50-60, slightly harder than OEM rubber of 40-50). For street driving this may be desirable but translates more vibration and road noise and will increase harshness off road. I feel the SuperPro units have a great balance of polyurethane performance without inducing the standard issues that come with polyurethane since they are only slightly harder than the OEM rubber units. I use my vehicle for towing and off road recreation and the entire suspension package (see my signature) has made for a great dual purpose vehicle.

i waved as we went past the signs for towards grand rapids! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to surprise you guys and tell you all I finally washed the Q. #IM.FOS #justforlaughs Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

About posting pictures, you need to host them externally and embed the direct link into the post.

Finally got my two inch spacers installed

Oooooo boy. Might have to put my welding skills to the test this winter. I’ve been wanting sliders since I pitched my factory mammoth steps, and these look wicked! FYI, looks like a bit of bare metal still showing. You should probably spray bomb that so you don’t get rust, or if you have, disregard. Lol

I usually get 17-18 mpg with about 70/30 highway/city. That's accounting for the 265/75/16 tires which adds about 8-9% additional miles per revolution over stock size. Without factoring that in it would be around 16

If you're planning to change your wheels, then now is a great time to consider your plans for the vehicle as far as tire size. If you want a tire larger than 31", you'll either need to use wheel spacers or get wheels with shallower backspacing. By planning accordingly now, you can avoid having to use wheel spacers later. The general consensus is you need 3.75" of backspacing to clear larger tires. With yours being a 98 you'll have no issues clearing 15" wheels too, which is a common and cheap size to meet those backspacing requirements. Rig looks clean, good luck on the build!

The smashfinder that could Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

And then a $30 gusset kit, weld job was $220 exactly, so $550. this is how he mounted them. He welded the brackets on and then the sliders to the brackets. He opted out on gusseting at the frame rail and instead gusseted at the first horizontal bar.

The pathy got to crawl on some econo cars today Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Crawled over some cars today at a local 4x4 event. Made it all the way through Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Upgraded my windshield washer nozzles from 2 to 3 streams. The ones I got from the junkyard honestly match the fading paint on my hood better haha

That looks like it took a ton of patience!

Saturday I welded my exhaust back together.. it was extremely difficult! I had to turn the MIG all the way down to 14 volts and wire speed was at 85. I basically had to spot weld the crack all the way around until it was completely solid, then I drug the weld over the spots for larger surface area penetration. If I slowed down at all it’d blow a hole in the pipe instantly.

Why mount the inverter to the headliner? The little cubby on the back passenger side would be a good place for it

Wow, that's a gorgeous color. It'll be nice when the truck is all put back together and you can get some pics that capture the color properly.

Sneak peak fellas. Who can guess the color? Hint: New Toyota color released for 2018, Not Heritage Blue*- Correction Not Calvary Blue! Forgot that the fuel door latch was on the drivers door panel, so I had to drop it off so they could finish up, so got to snap these pics! Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk