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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2019 in all areas

  1. so i have some nrc9448s coming in the mail wednesday and some Bilstein 33185569 5125 shocks coming tomorrow. hella excited to put these on and no longer sag every time i need to bring my tools somewhere Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    4 points
  2. Cousin popped by the shop today and they aren't wasting anytime! Won't be long fellas. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
    3 points
  3. I can't help it. I'm in love what can I say and I'm not afraid of showing it Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
    2 points
  4. 2 points
  5. Swapped the front ends on @ferrariowner123 1996 and the Pines to Spines 2003 today. He graciously donated the 2003 last year to @hawairish and I with the request that we swap front ends at some point, which he and I knocked out this afternoon. All body parts and lights bolt on with only the hood latch on the 2003 and wiring for the lights on both rigs needing some modification. The 2003 uses 9003 series headlights and has the corner/turn signals combined where the 1996 has separate signals and corner lights and uses a 9004 series headlight. With both rigs present and @ferrariowner123 's electrical knowledge it was a fairly straight forward job to swap and modify the plugs to get everything sorted out. The fender flares do not swap over and have to travel with the appropriate fender but once paint matched shouldn't be too noticeable. All in all a neat project with both rigs fooling you at first glance.
    1 point
  6. No, it was not obvious at all. Actually i almost put it back in but i thought i would clean all the grease out first and so i did using compressed air (yes i was also just playing with it) and while it was spinning in my hand it started making the exact same noise so i chucked it across the room and put a new chinesium bearing in. edit: i could see discoloration on the outer race where heat was building up but the cage and rollers looked nearly perfect. It had to be the inner race that was damaged..
    1 point
  7. Manik: good call.... That's pretty much what I was thinking as well.
    1 point
  8. There aren't a whole lot of diesel guys on here, unfortunately. Hooking a smoke machine to the intake (if you can make or borrow one) could help track down a boost leak, if that's what it is. From my limited knowledge of diesels, I'd also want to check the wastegate in case it's sticking open or something, and maybe check the fuel filter and any water trap the fuel system might have. I'm not familiar with how EGR works on a turbodiesel but I know it'll make gas engines run like crap when the valve (or the solenoid controlling vacuum to the valve) sticks open. I've temporarily blocked off EGR for testing purposes by just bolting a sheet of something between the EGR valve and the intake manifold where the gasket should be. Might be good to start there and see if it resolves the issue or just pisses off the computer (if it has one?) before committing to pulling the whole thing apart. Your best bet, if you can get ahold of one, is the factory service manual. NicoClub is a great resource for manuals, but I think most if not all of what they've got are US-spec, so that's no help for your ZD. I've got a fragment of a service manual for some kind of van that covers the mechanical side of the ZD30DD, but it's non-turbo, doesn't include much troubleshooting (just "name that rattle"), and looks like it's for some kind of van. Hopefully you can find something better than that. Good luck!
    1 point
  9. Ive had everything oh my Q painted for at least five months and everything still looks great. The key I think is making sure to put 2 coats of the primer and at least 2 if not 3 of the paint. I went 3 with the paint on both of mine. My Dad used it for his top on his Tracker almost a year ago now and it still looks really good.. It is garage kept though. Of course the anount of sun and weather as you know will im sure affect the long term results. Good luck. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. The end result looks very good, great work as always! I'm with Kyle, interested in long term results too. How long have you had it painted like that so far?
    1 point
  11. Looks good, let us know how it stands up to sun and weather, looks like an easy way to restore some of the trim on our aging rigs. -Kyle
    1 point
  12. We did a 72 mile off-road overnight trip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. Hi guys just joined in from "Kenya"....I got one 1993 Nissan WHYD21 Pathfinder it's been out of the road for 7 Years and I just decided to put it together. I am here for a lot of information and source parts that I need..
    1 point
  14. I just put a T in my cooler line and installed the sensor there. It is the outlet from the trans so pretty close to what the trans temp is.
    1 point
  15. Depends on what kind of hardware you want. The vendor I've been using to make my polyurethane rod ends can supply everything needed for both upper and lower sets, not including the tube, for around $350 to my door. So Im thinking 600 out the door for a complete set of 4 ready to bolt on with polyurethane bushings. The units above were polished and prettied up post welding which isn't necessary and brings up cost. It was purely for aesthetics. Currie Enterpries makes Johny Joints that are to size for the R50 that run about $55 a piece, 8 required for a set, and that doesn't include threaded tubing adapters or lock nuts but would be a superior product for a dedicated wheeler.
    1 point
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