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@02_Pathy let me lead the way and probably ate dust. He’s a trooper alright. So much fun meeting people in real life. Him and Micah are great guys

I'm trying to see where the PCV line comes into the bottom of the throttle body from the passenger side valve cover. I don't see anything related to that. I do see the 2 hoses for the coolant that flows through the throttle body. Does anyone know what the size of hose those are, so I can order a pipe nipple to bypass it as I do the rest of this project? Does anyone have some pictures of where the PCV hose comes into the throttle body? All I see is the ventilation hose from the driver's side valve cover to the rubber intake boot. The only thread I found google searching for pics goes to another Nissan forum where all the pics are no longer linked. I'm afraid I'm going to have to start taking things apart to find it, and I'm worried I won't have everything and will get stuck waiting on parts. Thanks

Extend brake lines if you’re adding shocks that are over 26”. The longer shocks are what will stretch your brake lines, as they are the main limiting factor in axle droop. You should get longer shocks with your lift, the common 5100’s are 26”, but me, @02_Pathy and @micahfelker are on the 29.7” 5100’s and all use or are going to use (Micah) extended brake lines.

The bearings wouldn't be sealed and the axles wouldn't be retained properly, so I wouldn't trust it very far (or through water or dust), but I'd expect once or twice around the block to be alright. I don't think the axles could slide out of the hubs enough to get loose, though I'd want to check that before going for it. Given that you already know the axle is junk, though, I'd be inclined to just replace it and get it over with.

I just put a T in my cooler line and installed the sensor there. It is the outlet from the trans so pretty close to what the trans temp is.

P0300 is just a misfire. With Nissan, it is a multiple cylinder misfire. Misfire on #1 is a P0301. P0325 is just the normal knock sensor code that is very common for the VG engines and doesn't really do anything. Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier, but I would have told you that the valves would have been fine unless you had a timing belt break while under heavy load and high rpm. I have done a bunch of timing belt jobs on the VGs, and your symptoms would have had me pulling the timing covers off again and rechecking the right cam timing. 1 tooth off it will start and run just a little rough, but throw misfire codes. That right cam is a sneaky bugger and loves to slip just a little when you are not looking.

If it's clapped enough to pop in 4x, I'd be surprised if it didn't make some noise the rest of the time. If you want to be sure, you could remove the drive plates (or unlock the hubs if you've got manual hubs) and try it like that. If the noise goes away when the CVs aren't spinning, there's your problem confirmed.

What's that old saying.. "Timing is everything"... The timing was advanced about 20 degrees too much, reset, reinspect for the LAST time and we are golden! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Warning: Don't watch this if you're afraid of body damage ?

Very sweet! That solves the cup-holer issue finally. Hmmm..... :cool2:

I’m late as well but, I to like the white letters out. My tires did not have that option.