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clean qx4! it was random but it was nice meeting another npora member local here in hollister hills! nice meeting you MLML! im no longer alone sf bay area lol .

Nice meeting Delta R50 today at Hollister SVRA!

Alright time for some catch up, still on the road and visited CO, AZ, and NM after Utah. Notable places, Mesa Verde and Monument Valley Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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do a leakdown test. itll tell you more than a compression test. have to push compressed air to each sparkplug holes. make sure the cylinder have all the valves closed when doing the testing so you can tell which one is leaking. hissing sound from intake manifold or air filter = bent intake valves hissing sound from exhaust manifold or exhaust = bent exhaust valves open radiator cap. bubbles coming out from radiator filler = leaking headgasket from cylinder #? hissing sound coming from oil dipstick = piston rings are leaking or have blow by

Attention to detail. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

The power for the hid is a positive and a negative I would just cut the connector off of it and then get two butt connectors and some wire to hook that up to power and ground. I wouldn't worry about not having the connector to fit in to the one on the back of the light Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Missing the plugs for the adjustable projectors on both sides and missing the power plug on one side. And I don’t have a switch for the adjustable motors either Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I done my rust repair I had no idea about buffing the clearcoat when finished. It look like crap and my Dad told me I needed to buff it and it should bring the clearcoat out. It done wonders. Like night and day. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

that’s right! i got home after getting only three stitches but she said i was lucky because i nearly severed my tendon after the main knuckle on my left pointer finger. But as soon as i got home i finished painting the fender i was originally working on! not the greatest picture and it’s okay that it’s not perfect yet. i’m needing to get white for other areas of the truck so it’ll get cleaned up then. i’m going to do the rocker panels and front fender aswell but i’m done for today with the grinder lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I took my radio and climate dash trim bezel off to install my electric brake controller display and manual activation lever. Getting the whole thing installed is a project that will never end. When I unscrewed the screws at top, the plastic ears broke off above the mid-point of the circle. I superglued the plastic back together to have a flat foundation, but I knew that would not be strong enough to last. So I used JB Weld to glue 2 metal washers to the plastic to reinforce it. It seems to have worked well. Just a warning if you take it apart, be ready for the plastic bits to fall off so you can find them. The 2nd pic shows how I installed the manual activation lever through one of the switch knock out panels.

I wasn't having this problem with my alarm. But when I opened the driver's side rear door, the interior lights would flicker, and occasionally they'd stay on, and sometimes they wouldn't with the door open. I replaced the door switch and it fixed it. I think I found the door switch on Amazon for $18 delivered. It was an aftermarket switch from SMP (Standard Motor Products). I've found it advertised as low as $12 other places, but S+H made it more expensive. My rear door hatch does this sometimes too, despite how hard I slam it. And going down rough roads, sometimes the interior light will flash on. The switch is internal to the latch and isn't independently replaceable. I think it is $200 new from Nissan USA. I found a website where you can order it from Japan for $110.

Love that color. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

I finally connected up the aiming motors to the HID's on my fixer upper 96 Pathy. Made my wiring harnesses and went to town. I'm that guy that takes forever, but when completed it's done near perfect and the right way. OCD just a little. Ha Ha. Following the wiring diagram to a T with little to no problems. The key here is making sure your connections are In it for the long haul and your wiring is in the back seat buckled up. I always take a little more time making my harnesses and triple checking to make sure all the connections are ran and done right the first time. I've in the past learned it goes together a hell of a lot easier than coming apart simply by triple checking your wiring you can avoid the cussing segment.. Lol. I've included some pictures of the install. Please feel free to ask any questions you have. This is my second factory HID install and I'm here to help. SUPPLY LIST- purchase a set of Factory HID's with aiming switch. Bussman Eaton easy I.D fuse panel, 2 - 30amp Nissan relays or equivalent, (red,black,yellow)14awg rolls of wire, butt, ring, Male and female connectors. Heat shrink rap, 3m rubber splicing tape, 3m super 33 black electrical tape, wire solder, blow torch, wire loom and wire ties/holders. I wanted to use a fuse box making things look 100 times cleaner eliminating a cluster f#$k of wires connected to the + side of the batt. Hope this helps Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Day 4 of our roadtrip, visited Arches National Park Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I used 3m marine grade adheasive and filled in where it shrunk. once dried I trimmed it to match the molding where it shrunk with a razer blade. looks good and cant really tell

Time to freshen up the front end a little today Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Here's some photos of the rig's transformation from when I got her to the police cruiser stage, then to a good trail rig to the present day Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk