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may 2016 sf bay area NPORA r50 meet Union City, ca npora members xplor4 and enjoi408.i forgot mikey's npora user name. (gray r50 pathfinder)

Agreed, that group was the reason I deleted my facebook account. Everytime I'd go on I'd just get super annoyed with incorrect information and people who think they're God. And I wouldn't get a sfd from there either, as there are incorrect specs floating around which could be annoying to align best case and dangerous in the worst case

Thanks. I don’t want to thread jack this, but I’ll say I checked out the Facebook page a little and came the conclusion it really wasn’t for me...no offense at all to anyone who likes and uses it. Regarding SFD, I feel confident that anything Towndawg and Hawairish put out would be safe and well engineered so I’ll probably hold off for that for now.

Mostly correct. For rear, 2" spacers and LR9448s. I'd say that if you plan to go with a bumper and winch, the AC's could be a good choice. They seem to have a much higher spring rate than OMEs judging by complaints of stiffness, but with enough weight to help compress them, it might work out well. Otherwise, if you'll be without bumper and or winch, I'd still consider the MD or HD springs and a spacer for ride quality. Also, heads up that the $167 springs that AC sells are OMEs (description includes their duty rating); the $180 springs are their house springs.

march 2016 update snorkel installation i had to be creative at least with this one. i almost went for the xj cherokee snorkel but i went for d22 navara snorkel as it has easier to custom pipe it to the intake. i eliminate the stock airbox and replaced it with spectre 5 inches inline intake i had to make some adjustments to make the spectre to fit between the maf and snorkel. 1x silicone coupler reducer plastic intake tube 2.5 outside diameter to 3 inches outside diameter to maf 1x silicone coupler reducer from maf with maf adapter with 3 inches outside diameter to 4 inches outside diameter to inline intake 1x silicone coupler reducer from inline intake 4 inches outside diameter to snorkel with 3 inches outside diameter to mate. marking the spot where to punch a hole. eye balled it................... tried to use the template for d22 just for the holes to bolt in. removed fender. as the spot where im trying to cut. i had cut it squarish only for me to make the intake tube fit. spray painted at least to prevent rust snorkel installed. truck still shiny lol

feb 2016 Frank Raines OHV patterson, california

same day after wheeling on carnegie we also dropped by at frank raines OHV

feb 2016 carnegie SVRA in tracy, california. weekend with my small circle parts added roof spot lights 7 inches HID 6k front brush guard lights 7 inches HID 6k 48inches hi lift jack custom mounts on roof basket

Something I've found myself reminding others about is that OME springs and shocks are intended for increased load handling, not lift. I don't consider them lift springs at all; it's not what they're meant for (that's not to say they don't provide lift). For R50s, all their springs have an estimated lift of 15mm when used according to their loading specs, which are standardized for all their springs: Light duty: no accessories Medium duty: bumper or winch, up to 50kg or 110lbs Heavy duty: bumper and winch, up to 100kg, or 220lbs I get about an 1.25" of lift from them because my winch and bumper setup is towards the low/mid range of the HD application, maybe around 140 lbs. Still, I rely on my strut spacers for lift, and the springs for handling, and they don't disappoint.

Yeah they offer a good amount of flex, the snow one is with LR9449s and sway bar connected (my current setup) and the others were with the OME coils with a 1 inch spacer with no sway bar (my previous setup) Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Poor boys rear tire carrier. Just mocked up t this point. Going to need to do a little work to get it better stabilized. Gonna figure out a way to mount my jerry can holder on it too. A project for another day! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

After they settled they ride very nice, you can tell its firmer than the OME and after they settled some they are softer than brand new. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Suspension update: After having the LR 9449's on with my old shocks I found out that they were too short now. So I went ahead and bought some Bilstein 33-185569 5125's and man what a difference. I got so much more travel now and can actually flex and tuck a wheel now. Before the shock would pick up my wheel but now the wheel stays in contact with the ground. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Hopefully someone has used those tires, but if not, for $15 more per tire, you could get falken Wildpeak AT3W’s. Those have a definite following and good reputations. They’ve got the fancy schmancy snow symbol on them and do really well in snow and off-road. Should be able to get them with a 55k mike warranty too.

No worries, it’s .03” longer too so obviously gotta go for that one.

Feb 2016 Frank Raines OHV patterson, california

Feb 2016 Frank Raines OHV patterson, california mud bath

Feb 2016 Frank Raines OHV patterson, california

Feb 2016 Frank Raines OHV patterson, california group pic with the boys

Will do soon hopefully!

Sounds good, excited to see what you figure out

Depends, if I see an issue where the uptravel of the tire contacts anything (shock body, inner fender, frame) then yes but I believe with the thicker and additional coils on the LR coils they might compress all the way before the tire contacts anything. With the down travel I don't think the bump stops are going to help me because if the bump stop contacts the upper body bump stop its still going to drop down to 29.7" regardless. Then with that I'll need limiting straps (which I don't want to do), keep the shocks I have now, or wait till I get a SFD and have more than 4" of lift in the rear.

With the additional lift in the rear and rake my tires clear the fenders now, so I removed my homemade bumpstops that were on the bottom of the spring perch. 3.5" inches would be great but I just have to make sure that the coils don't get unseated which would make it pointless lol.

Well, thanks guys for the insight. That was some helpful information. Probably gonna go with the AC coils, but I’ll sit on it a few more days just to be sure.

This couldn't be more true, those OME springs ride unbelievably well. With them I could fly down trails that I previously had to tiptoe along with stock coils. Just to clarify, you're running a 3" SFD and OME HD coils up front with 2" spacers and OME MD coils in the rear right?

Good to know now, however I did not have that. This means with the 1" spacer and HD OME coils I had up front I should have had a 1.5" front lift, and with the 2" spacer and MD OME coils (also advertised as a 0.5" lift) I had out back I should have had a 2.5" rear lift. This is a 1" difference, which is certainly not what I had observed in my suspension. Either the rear coils are underrated or the fronts are overrated. I would still say you're probably best off going with AC coils, as they're extremely well proven. If I build an R50 again that's what I'll use. This is just my experience. Btw, not the best angle, but evidence pic:

With temps in the mid 60’s today, it was finally time to take my summer toy out for a drive for the first time since Thanksgiving! She started right up and seemed happy to stretch her legs a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know how it varies from year to year, but on my 03 there isn’t a breather tube on top of the diff, just a stubby breather cap/fitting with no tube. Also there is more than enough slack in my brake lines that they don’t pull too tight even at full droop. This is with LR 9449 springs and extended shocks for an F250. If you have a later model R50 it seems you can go pretty high in the back without needing to mess with the brake lines.

According to AC's site the OME HD cols are rated for 110-220 lbs. The winch alone weighed 87 lbs and I'm guessing the bumper was around 100 lbs so (maybe more, not really sure; can't have been a ton because my scrawny self could move it around). I guess I was near the maximum load, however you would think if they're rated for it they wouldn't be struggling with it. It is certainly odd, I know you and @hawairish in particular have had fantastic results with your OME coils. Perhaps my situation is an anomaly. I guess in re-checking the specs the coils aren't supposed to provide nearly as much lift as I thought they were. Even so, why would there be such a huge difference between the front and rear? With the tools and heavy spare tire I carried over the back end, the front and rear coils should have been loaded in a manner which is similarly taxing on them, so I'm still perplexed as to why the rear coils proved so much more stout. Perhaps I just had bad luck or something, but the amount of rake I had certainly seems off.

FaceBook is the Wild West, beware! I stopped following that a while ago. It’s definitely a different crowd.

Stock springs are soft, but they still shouldn’t be bottoming out over speed bumps unless you’ve got several hundred pounds of weight in the back. Before messing with the springs I’d investigate everything else in the rear suspension. Get under there and start pulling/shaking everything you can get your hands on to see if anything is loose. Check both upper and lower trailing arms, the sway bar end links, and even the spare tire to make sure it’s nice and snug. I suspect the sound you’re hearing is something else that is loose or worn out and not the actual springs bottoming out.

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