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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2019 in all areas

  1. The bar should be 23 3/4 long. Holes are about 22.5 inches apart
    2 points
  2. Went joy riding to find a few waterfalls with the kids on this gloomy North GA day! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. First clean-up in probably 6 months from my last trail ride Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  4. My mom had an 03 with that exact subwoofer setup, it was a crappy treated paper one. Terrible sound and no power. But, I bet you could do better on your own. I think they make drop in replacements for that location on 4th gen 4runners, which means something like that must be viable in your scenario too.
    1 point
  5. Exactly...and John jackson from jackson motors ports who built the original prototype said that the conduit was just as good as his. The only reason he built his is so it could be a mounting point for a skid plate
    1 point
  6. I'll check the grounds. But I don't think the battery is having any trouble handling the fan. Even when the old alternator wasn't charging the car for the first minute or two, the battery was able to start and run the car with the voltage remaining around 12.5. This is approximately the same voltage that the battery bug captures as the lowest voltage during an engine start (which it assumes by watching for significant voltage swings. I think the alternator is just trying to replace the used charge too fast and the IACV motor can't keep up with the increased demand. This is the same reason that ECUs command increased idle air at the same time they turn on the AC at idle, or sense high power steering pressure. I think I've even heard some cars do it that have factory electric radiator fans.
    1 point
  7. I got the valve cover gaskets redone on my Pathy. It is running even smoother than it has in years. I assume that is because they found and replaced some more vacuum hoses that were brittle and leaking. A side effect has been that when my electric radiator fan kicks on, the engine idle RPM drops by about 250, and seems like it is stumbling for a second until the IACV can catch back up. It never did this before. But I imagine that is because there were enough air leaks the IACV didn't need to do much, and the ECU just fed the engine a bit more fuel. It is fine to leave as is. But its one of those things I'd like to improve if I could. The first thing I thought is if I could tap into either the signal from the air conditioner or the power steering pressure sensor that signals the engine to idle up right as the fan is turning on, that would help. Has anyone done this? I'm going to get out the FSM wiring manual and look through it. As I was writing this, I thought maybe an easier solution would be to just put the radiator fan controller inline with a capacitor, like they do with high power amps. Maybe that would smooth out the initial surge current enough to give the IACV valve more time to recover.
    1 point
  8. Oh, didn’t realize that. Yep, you qualify as NW. I love Boise. I’ve explored alot around there, N, NE, E, NW, SW of Boise - quite alot now that I think about it. I have a buddy who lived in Meridian & has a cabin in the mountains W of Cascade. I think the Sawtooths are as lovely as the Tetons. Idaho is great country!
    1 point
  9. Honestly forgot about that! Guess I'll make one!
    1 point
  10. You’d need a huge capacitor if you’re using it to supplement current that your battery can’t handle. Really you’d need a bank of super capacitors. Start caps in a DC motor circuit can help start a motor if the power supply is sized for the run current and the start current draw time is very short but your fans are supplied by the same battery that your starter is supplied by and your starter draws far more than your fans, by a lot. I bet you have a poor ground somewhere. Go over every single +\- connection they’d have messed with during the repairs, or all of them in the engine bay altogether, and clean them.
    1 point
  11. 2wd service truck got stuck on the sheet of ice in from of the driveway and didnt want to back up without sliding further down the hill to the burm. Had to use the truck to strap and pull it into the driveway but unfortunately girlfriend is from San Diego and doesnt know snow of how to do this stuff and rammed into the back of me. Only damage between the trucks was my tire carrier got bent in pretty good. Still opens and closes so just cosmetic but makes making this table for it a bit harder. Gotta straighten the bar somehow once it stops snowing now. Heat and a bfg I guess
    1 point
  12. Noted, I hadn’t quite thought about it that way. I’ll add a fairing to help avoid the rack catching things, but I think your point remains valid. Thanks for that
    1 point
  13. I'm not a fan of how narrow the upper rails are either...it looks like like a mohawk at times, but I've always loved the look of the rails from the side, which is one reason I've been hesitant to go higher than the rails. Basically, whatever rack I'd make would be flat vs. the slight arc on the rails. The reason I like the wider approach is because it provides an overhang for under-mounting light brackets, hooking tie-downs to it, having a few extra square feet, and not having to lean against the truck to bring stuff up and down from it. I want the over-rail mount because the space between rack and roof might be usable for other storage (flat water containers, folding table, etc.). All those reasons are what keep me on the bubble.
    1 point
  14. Hi guys, I’ve owned a 2003 SE pathfinder for about 9 years and love this car. Joined the forums here to discuss ideas, recommendations and experiences about this beast of a car ?
    1 point
  15. Installing the same exact one on mine^^ brother ordered it for his tacoma, but there was an error in the production so they are sending him another for free
    1 point
  16. At any given time there’s a different Nissan parked in my driveway Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  17. So I know you can use a 2001 maxima maf on our pathys, but how does that work with them being a 5 pin versus the pathy 4 pin connector? The factory connector still snaps on just fine?
    1 point
  18. Yep. As far as I can tell, it looked like a little thermistor. The pathfinder doesn’t even have a wire on the harness for that pin, so it won’t affect it at all.
    1 point
  19. Just did this myself about a month ago. The 5th pin on the maxima is for a little thermistor that the pathfinder doesn’t utilize, because the pathfinder has an auxiliary intake air temperature sensor. It snapped on easily, fit perfectly in the stock housing, and boy did it restore a good bit of power. No issues to date!
    1 point
  20. I guess we're due for an update, right @TowndawgR50? Things are moving along! Albeit, a little slower than we anticipated perhaps, but we're still at it. SFD designs and costs have been our primary focus, but we've not limited ourselves to discussions about other great ideas. We're making some initial hardware and material purchases over the next few days, as we're both anxious to get some prototypes made now that designs and numbers on paper (er, digital paper). We've given a significant amount of thought to the strut spacers in particular; I was tweaking the CADs for them tonight, actually. They're definitely a departure from what many are expecting. Behind the scenes, we've been in contact with several members who've expressed interest in kits already, and we're stoked about that and absolutely appreciate the support! We've also added a new tool to our arsenal (it arrived today actually!): a finger brake press. This will allow us to put some structural bends into plate, which opens the doors to a few additional design and product options. Lastly, we've been mulling over a company name since the end of December, but one particular name has grown on us and we've been informally using it. Can't share it yet, but I can tell you it's not HawDawgs.
    1 point
  21. Same boat here. I even just took measurements of the roof and rack over the weekend. Going above the rack frees up useful area by going wider, but with some other trade-offs. I'd suggest doing a Google image search for "DepHep racks". Personally one of my favorites. I did a recessed rack the other year (thread here) and that's the mounting style I'll likely stick with. I'm leaning towards a recessed rack again, but this time steel, full-length, and with integrated crossbars so that I can still haul longer items when needed. I've got some other features I'd like for it, in particular useful tie-down points, accessory mounts, camp lighting, and large slot for a folding table (this would require raising the rack surface and sliding a table between the rack and roof from above the liftgate).
    1 point
  22. Oh gotcha, those are beefy 31s. I feel like I could have almost rolled my 32s stock if I molded some fender areas, but the lift goes on tomorrow
    1 point
  23. Here’s some things I’m nontoring
    1 point
  24. And if you’re gonna take off the throttle body to clean it(which is a good idea in my opinion) get a new throttle body gasket as well as cleaning and a new gasket for the iacv valve. And you can monitor lots of stuff on r50’s with a Bluetooth dongle. O2 sensor voltage, maf voltage, cat efficiency, all kinds of things
    1 point
  25. Thanks herotrooper! Ya I saw the one of sfcreation, but I’d like to not spend $100
    1 point
  26. I followed stiocs approach and it’s been working great for me. Noticed an improved on my drive home that evening. I didn’t have any tube lying around the shop so I went to Home Depot and got a black steel pipe with threaded ends for under $15 (CAD) cut the ends off, and squished them in the press. I went a little farther and rounded the ends and then welded them shut. Quick coat of self etch primer then some black paint and on it went. Been on my truck for about 3 weeks now and it’s not coming off. Only thing I need to do is to make sure it’s torqued to correct spec now that I have a factory service manual. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. *also on my phone at the moment so if you want pics I can put them up later*
    1 point
  27. 95 is an electric speedo. You can try taking the cluster out and cleaning all the contacts and tightening the brass screws.
    1 point
  28. Jackson autosport I think is who made it to buy, I have one, but I'm fairly sure you can't buy them anymore. They can be made fairly easy though. -Kyle
    1 point
  29. I added one I guess... When I did my skid plate too.. Steel bar stock cut and drilled. also undercoated it.
    1 point
  30. Its a crossmember that makes the pathy much more rigid. It bolts to the arms underneath. They say it also makes it handle even better than it aleady does. Hence its name the missing link
    1 point
  31. What exactly is this R50 missing link you speak of?
    1 point
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