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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2019 in all areas

  1. I guess we're due for an update, right @TowndawgR50? Things are moving along! Albeit, a little slower than we anticipated perhaps, but we're still at it. SFD designs and costs have been our primary focus, but we've not limited ourselves to discussions about other great ideas. We're making some initial hardware and material purchases over the next few days, as we're both anxious to get some prototypes made now that designs and numbers on paper (er, digital paper). We've given a significant amount of thought to the strut spacers in particular; I was tweaking the CADs for them tonight, actually. They're definitely a departure from what many are expecting. Behind the scenes, we've been in contact with several members who've expressed interest in kits already, and we're stoked about that and absolutely appreciate the support! We've also added a new tool to our arsenal (it arrived today actually!): a finger brake press. This will allow us to put some structural bends into plate, which opens the doors to a few additional design and product options. Lastly, we've been mulling over a company name since the end of December, but one particular name has grown on us and we've been informally using it. Can't share it yet, but I can tell you it's not HawDawgs.
    7 points
  2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    5 points
  3. At any given time there’s a different Nissan parked in my driveway Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  4. I thought I was one the right track with this project, but so far the two people I’ve asked are on the fence. I wanted a low profile platform rack to strap on to my existing roof bars, kinda like the flat racks that you see on 4runners. I mocked up a frame out of EMT, I’d love to hear your guys thoughts on the asthetics of it. I’ll add crossbars if I like this shape. I just wanted something a little wider than the current rails, and with more cross bars than what I currently have. I also want low profile. Anyhow, thanks in andvance
    1 point
  5. Same boat here. I even just took measurements of the roof and rack over the weekend. Going above the rack frees up useful area by going wider, but with some other trade-offs. I'd suggest doing a Google image search for "DepHep racks". Personally one of my favorites. I did a recessed rack the other year (thread here) and that's the mounting style I'll likely stick with. I'm leaning towards a recessed rack again, but this time steel, full-length, and with integrated crossbars so that I can still haul longer items when needed. I've got some other features I'd like for it, in particular useful tie-down points, accessory mounts, camp lighting, and large slot for a folding table (this would require raising the rack surface and sliding a table between the rack and roof from above the liftgate).
    1 point
  6. Gotta love when the driveway is taken over by pathfinders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  7. is there enough room in the cubby under the carpet of the trunk to put a shallow mount subwoofer? This cubby (ignore the wiring, part of a rock light project). You could probably fit something pretty big out of sight and with no storage loss
    1 point
  8. While I do enjoy bass blaring through my speakers I’m more concerned with practicality, I do a lot of trail riding so space is very important for me. I’m just looking for a little more bump in the trunk with sacrificing as little space as possible Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. I kinda agree with @onespiritbrain. Go as big as you can. This is the box I carried over from my old 4runner and I don’t really run into storage isssues. Plus, the jaw dropping base is worth it (to me). Too bad the rear window doesn’t roll down like it did on the 4runnner
    1 point
  10. To be honest I think the rear bushings took about 20 minutes on one side and 35 on the other. The whole bushing is rubber and it comes off in one unit so there's no need to cut. Since its rubber and they've been on for awhile the rubber is really grippy on the shaft on the LCA so it takes awhile for it to come off unless you have a 2 jaw puller. Putting the new rear bushings on probably took about 30 seconds. I got the poly bushings from 4x4parts. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981476-pathfinder-front-lower-control-arm-front-bushings.html https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981483-pathfinder-front-lower-control-arm-rear-bushings.html
    1 point
  11. I built a simple MDF box for a 10” sub and placed it on the left side of the cargo area. It’s easy to remove when I need the space. I have since replaced that box with a JL Audio stealthbox, and the one pictured is for sale if you’re interested. Polk Audio db105 driver. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. Also here's the link that helped me greatly for the poly bushing install, great write up from Australia. One thing that I did differ from this was that I torqued all the LCA bolts when the tires were back on and the full weight of the vehicle, this made sure that the bushings were in the proper position and not stressed when torqued when the LCA's were at full droop http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7740 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. Sorry for the extremely late response on this never even realized you asked about the mount lol, I fabbed it myself from a bracket I bought at Home Depot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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