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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/2019 in all areas

  1. tymbits: the catch can helps to remove oil vapor from the pcv blow-by gasses before they get sucked back into the intake and burned. I am not sure how much oil I am burning, I don't think much at all. If you have excessive blow by this will help to keep the intake clean and help with burning that oil. This will not help with oil consumption caused by bad rings. Just to make sure there is no confusion about what I did, my front diff drop is only 3/4" . I just needed a little bit to ease the CV angles but not so much as to reduce ground clearance. Finally I finished my sliders. I purchased a new welder over the weekend and a tubing bender and decided to give tube bending a try. I thought about purchasing the sliders made for our vehicles, but I didn't want to attach to the pinch seam...yes I know it works, it is how my friends WJ sliders attach, but my experience with sliders has proven that weld-on is very skookum. The sliders are welded to the "frame" section of the unibody with 3/16" 3" by 4" angle iron. And now the big WIN. I had driveline vibration from the rear driveshaft that was driving me mad. Above 67 mph (indicated) the vibration was annoying, and driveshaft u-joint angles are less than 5 degrees so there is no need for a high angle driveshaft. I suspected the rear driveshaft was the problem even though i had it balanced and rebuilt. The other day I decided to remove the rear driveshaft from the equation so I picked up an Xterra rear shaft. Before installing the Xterra shaft I cleaned the rear diff pinion flange thoroughly , there may have been some binding here. All of my driveline vibrations are now gone, problem solved. Before I take the rear driveshaft back to the shop that balanced it I am going to reinstall it just to be sure there wasn't a problem with the pinion flange.
    3 points
  2. Finally got a little bit of snow
    3 points
  3. Heet should be pretty easy to find, and if not, yes, it's just alcohol. Looks like there are a couple of kinds (methanol or isopropanol). Either way, the alcohol mixes with both water and gas, so the water mixes into the gas instead of pooling at the bottom of the tank. Hopefully that's all it is!
    2 points
  4. #r50obsessed Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
    2 points
  5. I purchased two brand new half shafts from Napa after I installed my lift. They vibrated so badly the vehicle was undriveable with the front hubs locked. With the wheel at full droop on jack stands it was almost impossible to turn the half shafts, you could see the binding on the inner CV joint. I reinstalled the factory half shafts...smooth as butter, even with the lift. I have found most NAPA parts to be pretty good, but was amazed at how crappy these half shafts were. From now on I grab some from the yard and re-boot em.
    2 points
  6. Somewhere out near Enderby, BC
    2 points
  7. I cut the factory step rail off and left its mounts bolted to the vehicle. then I put a piece of 2x2 3/16" thick piece of square tube up against the cut off mounts and welded it up. once i had that, I reinforced it further and did the weld on braces. The driver's side has two weld location points and the passenger side has three because the gas tank isn't in the way. No pictures, just imagine placing some angle on the "frame" and running square tube from it to the inner slider rail.
    1 point
  8. I had similar issues with my 2002 SE. It ended up being the POS; rear crankshaft position sensor (the coincidence of this acronym was astounding considering the problems it gave me). I'm not sure if the symptoms would be identical had it been the front (CKP) crankshaft position sensor, but I was experiencing some of the same issues (i.e. shaking and misfiring while starting, something almost sounded clogged; rough idling, fuel covered spark plugs, strong gas smell.) However, I did begin to have starting issues and at one point I was stuck at the top of a mountain with a fully loaded rig because of it. As for the DTC, I'm not sure if it actually threw out a code as my SES light was on before the problem started, and still is on. (I have not yet reset it). After replacing air/fuel filters, spark plugs, an MAF sensor, etc. I was getting frustrated, so I feel where you're coming from on that front. I wish you the best of luck!
    1 point
  9. And as @Slartibartfast said...
    1 point
  10. Not much of a story haha but appreciate it brother!
    1 point
  11. Yeah man I've been nothing but impressed with it so far, as you've probably noticed haha, it's freaking rad. Thanks Kent!!
    1 point
  12. Didn't know there was a craze for them! I've liked their design and wanted one for a couple years now. I've always been a huge fan of wagons too. Subarus are freakin dope, and this gen of outback is just as awesome as the wrx and such, only more practical with more room for gear and stuff. I love the fact that I can completely lay down in the back as I sleep in the back sorta often. It's even longer than the Pathfinder, so I can actually fit straight instead of diagonally. Like Kent was saying it does like 80% of what a 4wd rig can do. I didn't expect a whole lot out of the awd system but it's done nothing but blow me away so far. It handles curvy mountain roads like a beast and can get almost anywhere. Haven't got stuck yet lol. I guarantee it's already seen more "wheeling" just this winter than most "overlanders" will in their lifetime lol. These things totally live up to--and surpass their hype.
    1 point
  13. Hi all - hope the new year has been treating you right. I finally got my suspension replacements installed with the (serious) help from more handy friends. Swapped out the upper and lower rear control arms, put in OME coils, KYB struts, and OME shocks. Unfortunately, when working on the suspension we found that my driver side CV boot has a serious tear. The stabilizer links were also shot. I was able to find some OEM stabilizer links on ebay for cheap, but found out that the OEM axle assembly is EXPENSIVE. If this were my daily driver it might be worth the money, but I'm having a hard time justifying that cost for a camping car. The aftermarket axles (new and remanufactured) are much cheaper, but as I've scanned through different forums it seems that there is a divide on their quality. Does anyone have strong opinions about new aftermarket or remanufactured axles? Has anyone had positive experiences with the brands on rock auto? Appreciate any advice you have!
    1 point
  14. So, this continues to get more interesting and frustrating as time goes on. I’ve verified that I don’t have a head gasket problem (whew), but even with the past several starts with misfires, my engine refuses to throw and codes. For some, that’d be a good thing I guess, but to me, especially when I know something is wrong but the computer doesn’t, it bugs me. So I called in a professional. A super friendly mechanic from a group I’m in (NORAC) decided to swing by and have a look. He hooked up his diagnostics computer and started probing around. Hiding in the computer were two codes, P1110 and P1135, which are the timing codes for bank 1 and bank 2. They’re both out of range, and as he made an attempt to override the CVVTS and advance/retard timing, nothing happened. Interesting, the timing won’t change at all, even at high RPMs or warmed up, and even more alarming, he sees these codes but my check engine light remains off, and my OBD2 reader says all is well. So there’s a timing issue. The computer is basically guessing at startup, causing some issues temporarily. Plus, the Long-Term Fuel Trim was at 94%... which means it’s DUMPING fuel, consistently, to run... explains the really rich exhaust smell. Oh and on top of that, I’ve got a really lazy Upstream Oxygen sensor in Bank 2. Which again, the check engine light has said nothing about. He proceeded to disable cylinder 4’s injector, to make it misfire, which made the engine hum a little and upset it, but nothing compared to how it misfires when starting (which shakes the whole engine). His explanation on that is that it certainly isn’t just cylinder 4 misfiring at startup, but the computer is only noticing cylinder 4. So with all this in mind, I have a bit of probing to do electronically. I’ve got a new oxygen sensor coming in tomorrow, and I decided to buy the two camshaft variable timing sensors as well just because they’re not too expensive and easy to replace. This has turned into something a bit more alarming, though. I’m happy to not have to worry about a head gasket issue, but it’ll be unfortunate if the computer is going out, or something of the sort. It’s just confusing that no codes are popping up at all... ESPECIALLY considering that she just passed emissions too, with no problems or weird numbers. So there’s my update dump. Anyone else wanna hop on this adventure?
    1 point
  15. Nice looking rig.[emoji106] Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
    1 point
  16. Yes, JDM Astars & yeah, the packaging of the LUYED kinda scared me, I expected to open those and see either some crappy looking led's or diamonds! Lol. I'm curious to see how long they last. I'll keep you posted.
    1 point
  17. OEM would be almost exactly 29. If you haven't come across this or something similar already, I use https://tiresize.com/chart/ for a quick layout of metric to inches conversions and popularly available sizes. They have lots of other great tools too.
    1 point
  18. See this thread Also, I love my JDM projectors... Also the rest of my JDM diesel R50 haha
    1 point
  19. JDM Astar I assume? The LEDs from them & LUYED seem pretty good. I’d put Diode Dynamics at the top with DDM Tuning below that & then Mictuning, iJDMToy & JDM Astar. I’ve been thinking Alla & LUYED might belong there as well. I am trying both & will be interested in your long term results too. I’ve definitely learned my lesson about cheapies bit I’ve wanted to explore these lower cost ones for good quality at a good price. Longevity is the key to value there. BTW, LUYED certainly spares no attention to packaging, huh, mine came in literally beautiful little boxes.
    1 point
  20. Thanks for all of the responses. I ended up swapping in remanufactured Cardone axles (got a great price, and ordered just before I saw the Rockford recommendation), TRQ lower ball joints (the rubber on mine were all cracked), and Nissan OEM stabilizer bar links (same...rubber was completely shot, and found a good price on ebay). I was going to try to do the work with a friend, but he flaked and the tire shop gave me a good price for doing all of the work at the same time. I've been taking my time, mostly due to laziness, but think I have taken care of most of the problems with my pathfinder. The last major thing is to figure out the roof rack situation (need to pull the anchors from a vehicle in the junkyard, but haven't looked forward to pulling down TWO roof liners) so I can store the spare, which doesn't fit underneath anymore. Thanks to the forum for help through this process...through lurking and asking questions, I've learned a ton.
    1 point
  21. Hi malacandro, I frequently shop on Rockauto and can tell you not every item is of very good quality. But usually they will put them in categories like economy or daily driver etc. I have also installed reman cv axles some 5years ago on my truck and even the boots are still good. Probably around 75k km on those since I installed them (work in a remote area and on rotations so my truck isn't being driven when I'm away for work). The brand I bought was Cardone select, which sold new units for about $40 (at least I assume they were new since it said on info page that it was). Good luck... Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  22. 1 point
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