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Here's a writeup on a VG33 swap into a VG30I truck. He went all out with boring and porting but most of what's in the thread should apply to yours as well. Good luck!

Well he hasn't been online since 2012 so even if he does I doubt it'll be easy to get a hold of him.

It's more about braking efficiency, less about safety (not that brakes aren't a safety item). Regardless of the valve proportion, you'll have braking power, but it may contribute to more brake wear up front over the long run. I'd document something, but I don't have any reference since my 04 doesn't have an LSV. Although my Frontier does, it's a slightly different design, and my truck's been lowered and adjusted enough to meet OE specs. Similar concept of course, but I wouldn't be able to account for any differences. I know the FSM has some procedural items, but you're right in that we might need some specialty instructions for lift.

I've done mine with projectors from theretrofitsource.com. Go with the mini d2s. They're awesome. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

If you go the DIY route I've had good experience with theretrofitsource.

[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] &@QuasarDecimari How about a “How To” for those of not as mechanically gifted as the two of you. As this issue undoubtedly effects safety, it sounds to me like it should be part & parcel of any lift.

Not a lot of recent posts in this thread, but it's a good starting point to get an idea of the combos you can do as far as wheels/tires/suspension.

Hi, my name is Ron. New to forum, I have owned my '87 Pathfinder for 27 years. It has been a great vehicle, many road trips, towed my boat and sand car for years and was a chase/support vehicle for a class 1 off-road racing team. It has 230,000 miles on it and the engine is very tired (go figure huh). I had to park it 2 1/2 years ago when it would no longer Pass smog. I have just purchased a vg33e engine to swap into it and joined this forum so I could seek advice and maybe encouragement. I look forward to being part of this group. Will post pics and more info. as I go. Thanks!

Replaced the battery. The single digit weather in the northeast finally did it in and starting was a no-go. When I pulled the old battery out, I saw the date code on it.... C9. Damned near lasted 10 years!

Check out the Factory Services Manual for your truck (https://nicoclub.com/archives/infiniti-qx4-factory-service-manuals.html), then check out the EC chapter; subsections are sorted by P code. Doesn't look like the 97 manuals mention it, but later models do. That particular code deals with a bypass valve, which is a solenoid. The FSM details the full/proper diagnostics, but the gist of it is that you need to inspect the solenoid. Make sure it clicks with 12V applied and that the two ports on it open and close (easiest test is to just blow into a port with and without voltage applied). The solenoids aren't cheap, but the ones on my trucks (04 Pathfinder, and a 98 Frontier where the charcoal canister ruptured and sent charcoal granules into the entire emissions system clogging hoses and valves) can be disassembled and reassembled with pliers and a screwdriver. I've used a pin/needle to extract any tiny debris that's clogged them open/closed, then reassembled. You also need to check for any loose/cracked hoses, cracked plastic, and potentially the cut valve itself (again, see the FSM for full steps). Green thing is the bypass solenoid, white thing is the cut valve.

Unfortunately I don't know anything about that exact one, but I suspect it's a rather generic part. And yes, it was just bolted to the plastic cover. Should prove very easy to add if you get one.

yeah I’m mainly looking for a prerunner light bar for my truck, if anybody could recommend me one and send me a link that would be sick Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In mjotrainbrains pic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes! I don’t want anything too big I just would like something that would attach to the plastic like the one in the pic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's another option for you, if your open to changing the bumper all together. Goliath bumper for an xj that has bull bar, pre-runner(shown) and even a stinger bar as bolt on options. I have less than $400 into my setup, and fabrication was not too difficult. About a day to draw up the plan and get everything lined up properly. The thing I liked about the goliath bumper in my research other than the price was that its wider, so no fabrication of the actual bumper was needed as others have stated they needed to do with other xj bumpers. If you truly just want to mount a stinger bar to your bumper, it may look good, but as others said it will have no true benefit, and can actually cause more damage if in an accident. If your just going for the aesthetic look, go for it and share pics! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I am happy to report that after having installed the new fan clutch it solved some issues. For one and the biggest is my pathy no longer sounds like an 18 wheeler driving down the road! It just about sounds 75% quieter which is much more than I expected because I was so used to the semi truck roar. It also solved a squeeling sound above 4000rpm that was driving me nuts thank god. It accelerates smoother and I feel I’ve gained some power back. The issue that remains which is kind of funny because it was a result of the roar is I can now hear the other subtlties of the engine. I’ve had an inkling there might be an air leak somewhere in the engine bay and I can now hear some air escaping somewhere in the rear of the engine up higher in front of the driver side. Dont know if anyone would have some insight on this. I also hear some crackling now in my exhaust near the cats. Dont know if this is normal but it sounds like something is in there bouncing of the walls. It could be just from the fact that I can hear more going on with my car that was less noticeable before. Occasionally though will note after have turned off my car to park it I’ll hear some loud pops from the exhaust from it cooling but pretty loud ones. Regardless glad to have fixed the main issues. I thank everyone who’s commented and contributed to this thread!

It’s worth noting, there are a million ways to build your truck & your build should suit you. This forum is great for avoiding mistakes but there’s half a dozen trucks that are my favorites for different reasons. Usage is HUGE in determining what you do. Budget is also HUGE. I lived in an apartment & had virtually no disposable income for the first handful of years I had my truck. My only mods were ones I found I needed (WAAG bars protected truck, auxiliary lights to see in the desert at night, rear back up lights, AirLifts to correct for sagging under load, a tiny Yakima basketcase that gave me functionality but still let me use my load bars, better headlights & decent AT tires). When I did have cash, I spent it exploring & getting the outdoor gear I needed. One of the main reasons I bought the Pathfinder in ‘02 was that it was a great “touring” vehicle. I did alot of long distance travel & what would be called Overlanding now. I camped primitively & just wanted a reliable, capable, comfortable, off-road truck.

Year: 2000 Pathfinder SE lift : Stock/ no lift Wheels : Stock/ 16x7 (I think), not sure about backspacing Tires : BFG MT T/A KM2 255/70/R16 Notes: Its pretty much 30" tires... so doesn't rub or anything.