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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/2019 in all areas

  1. "Anything off-topic, not necessarily about Pathfinders. Keep it clean!" Uh oh, sounds like a loophole to let in 4Runners has been left! I've found all the Toyota forums to be a great resource for information about mods and repairs, but as far as a place to host a build thread they don't seem very inviting, not to mention that the one I had been using the most (t4r.org) seems to be quite outdated and has had some sketchy things going on lately making me concerned that it may disappear if the owners don't do something; the new NPORA seems like a much more secure (and of course inviting) place. Now don't worry, I won't be flooding NPORA with Toyota hubba-bubba, but seeing as I lurk around so often I was feeling kind of strange having no content to let you guys know what's going on with me in terms of vehicles right now, as that is the general topic of the forum after all. For anybody who's newer and wants to know what in the world I have to do with Pathfinders, here's a link to my build thread from when I had an R50: And for additional details about my QX4 and 4Runner (since I'm going to try not to post here a lot; it is a Pathfinder forum after all), you can check out my Instagram profile in my signature as well as @projectrustyrunner. Not sure what you guys would want to know about the vehicle, so I guess I'll just list the most significant modifications and leave a pic or two. The previous owner put on some basic American Racing wheels which are beginning to corrode so I'm hoping to replace them with some Level 8 MK6 wheels along with new, larger tires. I have also put on Bilstein 5100 series adjustable front shocks to level the ride, as well as some Monroe rear shocks for a quick fix after one of the 180k mile old original shocks had the mounting stud snap off. I've got my CB mounted in a way that I am very happy with (although I intend to improve it further by running separate wires directly to an accessory fuse box I want to add under the hood). Being a Toyota the frame is quite rusty and I plan to replace it sometime in the next 2 or 3 years, which means I'm beginning to gather parts now. Should be a fun project. On the interior I've swapped almost all the lights to LED (just the HVAC screen and instrument cluster left), added OEM and WeatherTech floor mats in the passenger area and trunk respectively, installed a Jensen double din head unit with built in navigation, and just generally done my best to clean things up and replace little missing/damaged parts. This summer's big project will be gutting the interior, addressing whatever rust I can find on the body, and putting in new carpet. In a few minutes I'm going to go outside and hopefully figure out what's loose in the front end, because I'm going offroading on Saturday. Anyways that's about all there is to say about that, so onto the pics:
    2 points
  2. Hi guys, im the owner of 99 pathy which i bought one month ago. I am in love with this car. And thanks to all of you guys i will make it even more better and nicer to look. Reguards from Montenegro, ex Yugoslavia
    2 points
  3. This thread reminded me of this....
    2 points
  4. As for the replacement CV axles, I've used cardone select (these are new not reman) on many different vehicles over the years and have had great results. As for the hubs, I've had both warn & mile marker. Yes, the warn's are stronger, but unless you're rock crawling with 35's on a daily basis, I think you're fine with the mile markers.
    2 points
  5. Perfect. And while Warm are definitely nice, my Mile Markers have been going strong for a few years now. I would’t worry. Oh, and I’d avoid Carquest axles. I used to work at an Advance Auto Parts and we sold Carquest axles. I swore by a lot of things there, but not those. I’ve broken more carquests than anything else, and I saw so many of them returned constantly.
    2 points
  6. Don’t be alarmed, I did the same thing recently after rebuilding my engine and having a misfire issue. I pulled off the oil cap, and there was some sort of residue there, and I freaked out, assuming the worst. In this case, what you’re seeing looks normal, at least from what I’ve seen. However, lets not just shrug it off immediately. What you’re likely seeing is the results of colder outside temperatures (assuming its winter where you are currently), short driving trips, or potentially a clogged PCV system (unlikely, but possible). You see, when your engine warms up, it dumps a lot of fuel to help it warm up faster and get the catalytic converters warmed up so emissions and oxygen sensors play nice. A warm engine is more efficient, and your crankshaft bearings take less of a beating at higher temperatures. While everything’s expanding due to heat, and oil is being whisked around, that excess fuel dumped into the cylinder can blow by the piston rings a little under idle/warming conditions. This is called blowby. The result is a small amount of gasoline mixing in with your oil. Conveniently, modern engines have a preventative measure for any damage that would cause, called the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve system, which allows the pressure from the blowby, and the evaporating gasses from the fuel, to be safely vented into the intake to be burned off. The oil cap, being at the top of the engine, and being made of plastic, is typically cooler than the rest of the engine. Residual gasses from the oil and fuel blowby can condense on the oil cap, leaving behind a range of strange debris or colors (sometimes yellow, tan, or dark brown). This is completely normal, and should only really raise a flag if there is a lot of it, your valve covers and other sealed surfaces seem to be seeping oil, or you have poor engine performance/idle (this would indicate a possible faulty PCV valve). This sort of thing tends to pop up the most during colder weather, and especially in winter climates, due to short trip driving or letting the engine idle up to temperature for too long. So now that you have an idea of what the issue COULD be, it’s a lot less alarming. I really wouldn’t worry, but lets check a couple things! First of all, you said you changed the oil. By dumping the oil or checking the dipstick, a very alarming and fast indication of a blown head gasket would be a milkshake-like oil substance. Usually, it looks a lot stranger than brown sludge, so cross that off your list. Do a quick google search on blown head gasket oil, and you’ll see what I mean. It doesn’t take much for the coolant and oil to mix to make the nasty stuff, and you’d definitely notice it if it were severe enough. You also mentioned checking the radiator. While it’s less likely for the oil to make its way into the cooling system with a head gasket issue, it’s still possible, of course. Typically, the exhaust gasses are what make their way into the coolant, and while it can be hard to detect, there are texting kits for about $40 at local auto parts stores that allow you to test and see if you have exhaust gasses in your cooling system. They’re pretty simple to use, but you might only want to for peace of mind if you’re still not convinced. If you want to put some time into diagnostics further, pull your spark plugs and look at the color of the ceramic tips around the electrode. There are plenty of images online that can tell you how to “read” your spark plugs to know if you’re burning oil, running rich, lean, or have a head gasket problem. If it’s a small leak, it may not be noticeable. While you’re at it, rent a compression tester, check cylinder compression, and perform a leakdown test on the cylinders. This can be one of the fastest ways to indicate a failure of some sort, whether it’s a compression issue, valve issue, or head gasket. You could also rent a cooling system pressure tester. If you have a borescope, this can be really useful, but not everyone has one. You can perform a leakdown test according to the factory PSI specs of the vehicle. Typically, if it holds the indicated pressure (typically 13 PSI for older pathfinders), for 5 minutes or more without dropping significantly, you’re fine. Take it with a grain of salt, because a rental kit may not be 100% accurate, and could leak down even if you don’t have a leak, but it’s usually very slow. Sometimes, if you’re lucky (and unlucky I guess), coolant will come out of the damaged part of the head gasket around the heads or block, indicating failure. With a borescope, in short, you could look in each cylinder after a leakdown test to see if there is any coolant puddled up on the piston. Finally, an old trick from one of my mechanic buddies: Get a white piece of printer paper. Take the dipstick and wipe it off, dip it again for fresh oil, and put a good drop of it on the paper. Try and keep it as collected as possible and not splattered all over it. Let it sit until it soaks into the paper all of the way. It could be a while. If there is any small residue from a head gasket failure, typically it’ll sit on top of the paper and not soak in. Otherwise, the oil should soak into the paper and have very little variances in color. Obviously this is no engineering test, but it’s another quick and easy one for peace of mind. With all of this in mind, “brown sludge,” as you called it, could potentially be a different issue, sludge buildup. This comes with a range of other symptoms, however, and can be found various ways. If the previous owner took good care of her and did routine oil changes, cross that off your list. Regardless, throwing in a little Seafoam into the oil a few hundred miles before your next oil change can’t hurt, and could break up any potential sludge you do have (I usually drain about a quart of oil, dump a bottle of seafoam in, and run it like that for a day, changing the oil the next day). Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions!
    2 points
  7. Has anyone installed a shift kit on their rig? I picked up a super clean 04 with 104k Miles. I’ve taken out the power valves and did some intake smoothing. About to order some intake spacers and 75mm throttle body. Home built intake removed silencers but kept stock box. Raised Mass air meter for now to help lean her out a little worked great. Will be working on some custom headers and installing true dual exhaust. This is my first pathfinder and absolutely love it. Lowering her a couple inches in a few months when I install new rear suspension kit. My wife has a Durango RT with CAI and Tune my path walks it from a dead stop. I’ts got lazy shifts at wot needs a shift kit.
    1 point
  8. Hahahah wtf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. This one works for me through chrome. Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. 17&32 Working. I’m on Tapatalk. Thx!!
    1 point
  11. My Mile Markers are holding up pretty well too, though the chrome plating on the trim rings is coming off in sheets. Thanks for the heads up on the Carquest axles. When I had my front end apart, I rebooted some factory axles, figuring it couldn't be that hard and I'd be sure to avoid a bum reman. Next time I'm taking my chances on remans! Those things are a right greasy PITA to get apart, and of the four axles I disassembled (or tried to), only two of them were in good enough shape to put back together.
    1 point
  12. Nope, I just see plain text with a couple of links. I clicked on one of them and nothing happened except that a little shield popped up next to the address bar in Firefox, which says "tracking blocked" if I mouse over it.
    1 point
  13. Working for me on copy/paste. Given that it's on Facebook, I wouldn't be surprised if it was an issue of FB not playing ball. See if this link works:
    1 point
  14. Couldn’t agree more. I laughed at the thread title & intro as well. @mjotrainbrain You have contributed a ton to this forum & continue to even though you’ve moved on to a Toyota. You have plenty of Pathy experience & general truck knowledge that are a welcome addition to this forum (as well as still running the TOTEM thread). You have one of only 2 4G T4Rs I follow on IG. I live on T4R.org as well (mostly in the 5th Gen areas) but there’s no comparison to NPORA. I do have a nice MDXers.org forum I follow but it’s content is obviously different-though behaviors are good. NPORA has a great community. Personally, I think it’s a selection bias of the kind of people who are willing to invest time & effort into a decade & a half old truck. You’re definitely part of our community & we’re glad to have you stick around.
    1 point
  15. Of course! Get some manual locking hubs when you get the chance too. You’ll see most everyone praising them in Pathfinder pages. They help gas mileage a little, and definitely keep those CV axles in good shape while you’re not needing 4WD, so they’re nice and tough when you actually need them.
    1 point
  16. Yeah I think it looks good haha I do think the brown coating it from running non-synthetic oil though. Not a particularly bad thing but an effect of dino oil for sure. With my old engine I only used havoline 10w30 dino oil and my cap looked just like that but worse. Dry looking light brown coating that could be scraped off into a powder. This is what a BHG looks like:
    1 point
  17. Lol love the name of this thread Also I’m all for this build thread. You can take the Nissan away from the man but you can never take the Nissan out of him! Really though it’s the people of this forum that make it what it is and the way we treat each other. For instance, most places you can’t ask a freakin question without someone chastising you about using the search button. I swear, this forum is 50%(my entire suspension is in a mountain of boxes waiting to be replaced and I have to buy a shop press freakin never ends or it’s more like 25%) of why I like owning a Pathfinder. Anyway said all that to say that you’ve proved yourself a true part of this group of people and I’m excited to see your new venture!
    1 point
  18. Awesome! I love seeing what other people do to their trucks, so I’m all for this thread!
    1 point
  19. Me too, I was gonna comment on that exactly! The style of the interior in these rigs matches the black and wood grain combo nicely.
    1 point
  20. I love the dark interior. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
    1 point
  21. I found one just like yours bro.@Stpickens Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
    1 point
  22. My current Nav setup. Will likely drop the Nuvi, especially once the new head unit goes in with Waze. Add my phone to that magnet mount with Google Maps & I could have 4 maps running at once - probably too much!
    1 point
  23. It works for me if I paste only this part into my browser:
    1 point
  24. I'm thinking maybe newly purchased used that forgot the drive out tag. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
    1 point
  25. I've dipped them in flex seal so when they are not being used the banging and rattling around is less. Same idea as the rubber grommets (though much thicker than my flex seal coating) people put on their D rings on their bumpers. I can post a write up and some pictures though honestly I'd be suprised if anyone would want to copy my plans since they will be fairly crude and done with some scrap metal I have laying around. Got the slave and master cylinder installed before leaving to work. Once I get back on Friday going to add fluid, bleed and tighten as necessary
    1 point
  26. Doesn’t it strike anyone as ironic that the emissions inspector is failing you because you have too MANY catalytic converters? He understands the goal is LESS emissions right?
    1 point
  27. Yep, that’s why my truck has been sitting untouched in the garage for a month. Why the flex seal? I just did mine in stainless. REALLY interested in your idea of a fold down table on the tire carrier. Please post a write up. We are about to do 4 post facelift swingate retrofits up here in the PNW &!I would LOVE to put a fold down table on more mine!
    1 point
  28. Definitely a key point, hence the reason it would be a desirable fix to lower the LSV, than to raise the spring mount. More work, definitely more work, but possibly more accurate. I’ll have to put some thought into that one
    1 point
  29. Apologies, you are correct - VG30I rather than my I typo. Re the rims, they are OZ Racing rims, imported by the guy who owned this before me. I tried to source another one (i normally run with 2 spares ) but the Australian distributor said they couldn't source any more - so have sourced 16" genuine Nissan steel rims, so that looks like the direction now. My ride for the rallies up to now has been a 71 240Z - see below - so the Terrano will certainly be a different beast. Re the VG35 - thanks a lot for the suggestions. Will investigate the local options. I build all my own so the engine swap and upgrade shouldn't create too many challenges hopefully. Much appreciated - will see how it goes
    1 point
  30. So it does improve handling and stiffen up your ride. It also makes your ride stronger, and protects the front suspension from undue stress by linking those lower arms together. I legitimately noticed less body roll in cornering, and I guess its harder to prove that it strengthens the structure of your ride, but that's generally what crossbars do..... Also if you make the crossbar a certain way, it serves as a great mounting point for some skid plates
    1 point
  31. As a follow up, I went through on this approach to the missing link. Definitely added some sturdiness to my ride, and I’m very pleased with it for what it cost
    1 point
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