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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/04/2019 in all areas

  1. Thank you for the kind words! After experiencing some other forums I have to say NPORA is the best I've seen by far, and after all this community has done for me the least I can do it help where I can.
    2 points
  2. I just wanted to take a minute to say how nice it is to see you still hanging out in NPORA. You always have nice contributions & it’s great you’ve stuck around to continue to lend your knowledge & experience to the group!
    2 points
  3. Hi all - apologies for the loooong delay in updating. Some pix uploaded . Am now in the process of looking to replace, upgrade the VG30e engine (has a decent bottom end knock) and looking at either a straight swap (can get a warranted low KM engine at decent price) or possibly go to the VG35e but not sure of what issues I may run in to with that direction. Any input/suggestions very well received. Am not sure what equivalent pathfinder model I should/could be looking at for either the VG30e or VG35e engines as Pathfidner is a LOT better recognised than Terrano back from 1987 ? Thanks in advance of any advice Cheers Ian
    2 points
  4. I have the same size all terrains on stock wheels with no issues. According to the manufacturer my 31 inch tires actually measure at 30.5.
    1 point
  5. Parts companies to avoid: Dorman, mevotech, cardone, moog (used to be good but now is crap). If I have to get aftermarket I try and use beck/arnley as half the time it’s an oem looking part in the box. Or ACDelco as their parts are usually okay. Ive never had a bad oem part from Nissan, or VW for my golf. The way I look at it is, if it’s something that will leave me stranded, I’m willing to pay the extra cost for the part that lasted 20+ years. Just been my experience working on cars for 15 years and owing a pathfinder for 14 of those.
    1 point
  6. Mrelcocko aka Jason Cox #my96R50 Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
    1 point
  7. Huh. I didn't know the R50s dimmed their dome lights, that's unhelpful. And yeah, a cap is probably the way to deal with that. A cap across the relay coil and a diode to isolate it from the rest of the circuit would make sure the cap was keeping just the relay energized and not dumping its power through the dome light bulbs or possibly confusing some other part of the circuit. I did something similar when I wired a lighted ignition cylinder ring off my dome light circuit. I wanted the ring to stay on briefly after the door was closed (because otherwise what's the point), but I didn't want the dome light to stay on. I wired a couple of capacitors to the LEDs on the ring and ran power from the dome light circuit through a diode, preventing the caps from discharging through the dome and footwell lights.
    1 point
  8. Very likely. I bought these recently (BF Goodrich for $105 from Walmart) and they rub (front during reverse turning, back during full load full suspension travel). I guess rim offset matters too. https://www.walmart.com/ip/BFGoodrich-Rugged-Terrain-T-A-Tire-P265-70R16-111T/672705797
    1 point
  9. I used the exact setup from my wiring diagram (EXCEPT I had to swap the my hookups between pin 87 and 30) to get one rock light and the backup light hooked up before I had to stop. They work exactly as I thought they would, the only thing is the relay “chatters” and rattles when the lights are subject to dimming like the dome light does. I believe a capacitor should fix that, and I’m hoping to get the other rock light wired tonight. Definitely put out a ton of light. Hopefully get pictures up tonight as well
    1 point
  10. Can I use the 'Report' function to report admins who seem to be slacking on their duties or are just too damned lazy to cleanout their inboxes?
    1 point
  11. I bought a used JDM import VG30 engine for less than $500. They told me it had around 50,000km on it. When I pulled the valve covers it looked brand new, not even any oil staining like you’d normally see. I would go that route if you want a bolt in economical swap.
    1 point
  12. So today I did a little more work on the r50. I started off by making the steering link to go from the steering wheel to the Jeep steering box. I sleeved it with some SUPER thick tube, and drilled holes in the tube so I could weld in the holes. Once all welded I Painted it black and installed it. Next I welded up the steering box reinforcement plates I had a custom power steering line made at the "local" hydraulic shop. Runs from the r50 power steering pump to the Jeep steering box. The return line I just used hose clamps for, as that is what the original used on the jeep. I have to make a little retainer bracket to hold the "loop end" of the hose, so its not swinging around or rubbing onto anything. Ill bolt it onto one of the oil pan bolts. I rolled the axle underneath the car for the first time! as it sits, i'm content with how well things are lined up. I make a cardboard template for the trackbar bracket, but forgot to take a picture. More than likely ill get that all welded up and installed tomorrow. https://imgur.com/a/BuJnL26 Things left to do: cut out the trackbar bracket and weld it on, make/buy longer trackbar, weld on 4 link brackets, weld up 4 links, make coil buckets & frame reinforcements in that area, install custom brake lines & purge system. probably missing some stuff here and there, but its been a long week lol ALSO sorry that these pictures have been coming up sideways and upside down.... I haven't any idea how to fix that. Ill try a different website next time to get picture into a URL form. Pictures are too large to use the "drag files here to attach , or choose file" option. Sorry!
    1 point
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