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Checked the strut nut for movement to find none. Will have to wait for warmer weather to jack up, put on jack stands and inspect link ends and sway arm bushings. Those I changed on my 2000 Xterra front and rear. Guessing that this may be the culprit. Will keep this forum informed. MTG

Check and make sure the nut on the strut piston is torqued under the full weight of the truck on a level surface. If this step is missed and the strut piston nut is only tightened while there is no weight on the suspension it can cause clunking when the strut cycles to full extension. The nut and washer on the piston hit the strut tower after a brief moment of being lifted above the strut mount from the compression of the suspension. Open your hood, push down on the vehicle watch for movement on the nut and strut piston. There should be none.

I went to a local locksmith here where I live. Nissan wanted like $180 for the fob and $35 to program it which they were politely told where to put it. At the locksmith I paid like $45 for the fob and they gave me the directions how to program it and I programed it myself in less than a minute and a half. Very easy very idiot proof.

I havent heard much good about them unfortunately. To my knowledge they are plagued with electrical problems.

Thanks, that is super useful!

Hi there, new to the forum but already got useful info so thanks already. From Ireland but living in Vancouver at the moment. Bought a 1991 Pathfinder XE last week which has certainly lived a hard life but she has a solid frame and smooth engine. Currently has very few straight panels left, a snapped rear shock and no power steering but I plan on getting her back in fighting form starting with a full service this weekend. I'm sure I'll be annoying some of you with questions soon?

interesting project! I wish you success

I don’t mean to keep posting links but this one mentions your exact issue and is fairly technical: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vfd-unwanted-segments-glowing/