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no problem...keep them coming... I had read this one though.. and a bunch of others as I am educating myself about this subject.. everything points to the capacitor (50v 33mf). A colder temperature making a capacitor have a greater capacitance is a known fix for a leaking capacitor. Right now the temperature is cold and the display is pretty much perfect. Although I can clearly see the difference between -14c and -1c today. There is a small ghosting effect today and when it was -14c, there was none. I will bring the truck in the garage and start doing some live test at 20C with can of compressed air (turned upside down)... My goal is try to demonstrate that the capacitor is leaking by showing the ghosting disappearing when I freeze it... should be good.

Honestly my info isn’t in black and white anywhere.. at all... which I think is absolutely ridiculous. What’s more ridiculous is that California mandates entirely separate emissions standards than the rest of the entire USA. I could rattle on in the likes of a novel here but I won’t. The FSM calls the cats nearest to the engine “warm up” cats. I can’t find it to save my life now, and it was probably anecdotal anyway, but I read that CA emission laws require the catalyst system to have the nox output in a certain range by a certain time while the vehicle is still warming up. Then there’s the two different configurations and you can see which you have by whether or not your catalyst tag under the hood says California approved or not. *you can also see here in this pic that it says “2TWC(2)” which is 2 three way catalysts multiplied by two banks for a total of 4 cats on CA approved models* Here are the two separate diagrams: NizmoGizmo, show that guy the tag under your hood that clearly says you have 4 cats. If he doesn’t accept that then definitely go to the dealership and ask them for some kind of document you can bring to the inspector. That 445005 cat you linked says CARB compliant and if you can prove your supposed to have a cat there to begin with then you should be okay even though it is aftermarket. Edit: and if he doesn’t accept that either then cut the things out of there and blow extra emissions into his hippie nostrils on your way out, certification in hand. However... if you later get an inspector that is familiar with Pathfinders then you’re gonna have to cut the straight pipes right back out and install the cats all over again.

That's how I done mine. I didn't have to cut anything. Love the nice clean look. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

1:1 solution of Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic Transmission Fluid & Lacquer Thinner

Ya, forgot about that. I had to find an SPDT. On offs can be had anywhere

It was a bushing. I got it out with a pipe wrench. The manual trans is in.

I don’t mean to keep posting links but this one mentions your exact issue and is fairly technical: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vfd-unwanted-segments-glowing/

Glad you got this done! Looks good.

So here is the trackbar bracket and crossmember. Its two sheets welded onto a frame reinforcement. I will show later on how ill finish the crossmember. debating on welding a top and bottom onto it, or just put bars in between. not sure yet... It sits higher than the oil pan and radiator/condenser, so i'm not too worried about it catching on anything. I then decided that anything that was welded to the frame was also gonna have a bolt or two running through it as a back up. Just incase. So the engine mounts, and all the frame reinforcements got a bolt or two through the frame. Here's how I ran a bolt through the new crossmember as another reinforcement. The bolt on the left is off center because i wanted it to go through the frame reinforcement also. If I would've planned this better, I would have extended the reinforcement to the left further and then centered the bolt. It'll do though. I did the same on the other side and in the back. These angle bar were 3/8" thick and took 2 cut off wheels just to make each piece... super annoying to cut with an angle grinder! PS, everything is being cut with an angle grinder, so lines won't be perfect.. I cleaned up both sides of the frame on the outside, and drilled the reinforcements to fit the existing holes (I ended up removing the abs bracket and cleaning further up into that corner but didn't get a picture). Ill weld them in tomorrow most likely and mount the coil buckets to these.

I'd try spraying some Kroil or PB Blaster on them, then repeatedly tap the bolt for a couple minutes,then try. If that doesn't work, with a hose handy you could try putting a propane torch to them for about 15 seconds and then quenching them. Can repeat a couple of times. You could also try an impact driver. If you have an air compressor, you can get the driver cheap at Harbor Freight. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Go to a different inspector that knows his arse from a hole in the ground.