Leaderboard

I'd try spraying some Kroil or PB Blaster on them, then repeatedly tap the bolt for a couple minutes,then try. If that doesn't work, with a hose handy you could try putting a propane torch to them for about 15 seconds and then quenching them. Can repeat a couple of times. You could also try an impact driver. If you have an air compressor, you can get the driver cheap at Harbor Freight. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

PB Blaster is extremely useful. If you plan to do more work on your vehicle in the future, especially stuff like suspension, it may be worth it to invest in an impact. An air impact will require a pretty decent compressor, but an electric will have some higher cost due to the battery (although you may be able to get one that uses batteries matching tools you already have). The main issue with an impact is being tempted to force a bolt out without using any penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) and then snapping bolts off, leaving you with an even bigger problem... Anyways, hope that helps.

Since i had to remove the battery and the airbox.The area under the battery and under the Breather I cleaned and used undercoating. I didn't get any pictures of the area under the battery but I did get some under the breather tube and airbox. It's a good idea to do this stuff In my book it's that time of year anyway. undercoating is going to be at the top of my to - do list Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

When I put my missing link on, I ended up having to spray WD40 every few hours for the first evening, let it sit overnight, then the bolts came off pretty easy the next day (still had to use a breaker bar).

Well, I tried to re-solder all the pins of the led display, but it did not change anything.... I will try to get a hold of someone who knows electronics and will see what he says... I will communicate the details if the situation changes. Cheers.

Might be worth trying a locksmith if you get really stuck. I'd probably pull the seat (to give me a little more room to work) and see how much of the door panel I could remove. If the trim around it doesn't overlap it you could probably get some kind of pry bar with a 90° end in there to pop the clips free. If you can get that off, then you have the fun of sticking your arm into the door and fishing around for the latch mechanism.

Pages 10 and 11 of the FE section of the '03 manual have diagrams of the exhaust system showing all of the components. You can download the '03 manual here. The manual doesn't label the resonators for some reason but shows the TWCs (three-way catalysts) bolted to the manifolds as the only cats in the system. The parts diagram here shows them as present, but doesn't say what they are. This thread says they're just resonators, and suggests that Nissan didn't make them right (there's a shock) and then came up with a half-assed "fix" to slap on when they failed (this seems to be a pattern). This thread also talks about whether or not they're cats, and the last poster had a link to the actual part. +1 for finding an inspector who's not a halfwit. Wouldn't hurt to have the diagrams on your phone or something in case the next guy's also an idiot.

Explorin' a bit on Christmas Day. New here, thanks for all the help with the amount of info available on the R50, unlike anywhere else!

Alright. I've been ordering parts this weekend (I'm realizing that tubing, wire, switches, relays, and diodes add up... *sigh*), and hopefully I'll put together a high resolution diagram for you all.

Finally had some free time so I just drove on some forest roads, and I low key like the moon dust grey [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Some shots from a November trip to Anza-Borrego and the Salton Sea. Great time, but pretty sure it accelerated my control arm bushing disintegration...