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So today I did a little more work on the r50. I started off by making the steering link to go from the steering wheel to the Jeep steering box. I sleeved it with some SUPER thick tube, and drilled holes in the tube so I could weld in the holes. Once all welded I Painted it black and installed it. Next I welded up the steering box reinforcement plates I had a custom power steering line made at the "local" hydraulic shop. Runs from the r50 power steering pump to the Jeep steering box. The return line I just used hose clamps for, as that is what the original used on the jeep. I have to make a little retainer bracket to hold the "loop end" of the hose, so its not swinging around or rubbing onto anything. Ill bolt it onto one of the oil pan bolts. I rolled the axle underneath the car for the first time! as it sits, i'm content with how well things are lined up. I make a cardboard template for the trackbar bracket, but forgot to take a picture. More than likely ill get that all welded up and installed tomorrow. https://imgur.com/a/BuJnL26 Things left to do: cut out the trackbar bracket and weld it on, make/buy longer trackbar, weld on 4 link brackets, weld up 4 links, make coil buckets & frame reinforcements in that area, install custom brake lines & purge system. probably missing some stuff here and there, but its been a long week lol ALSO sorry that these pictures have been coming up sideways and upside down.... I haven't any idea how to fix that. Ill try a different website next time to get picture into a URL form. Pictures are too large to use the "drag files here to attach , or choose file" option. Sorry!

Hello, My name is Johann and here is what I've been up to lately (SAS). I've been collecting parts for the swap for close to two years now. Mostly waiting on good deals on parts and tools. Recently I was gifted a motor picker, and that was one of the last tools I needed to start the swap. So about 4 days ago, it began. A few months ago I bought a 97 pathfinder for 300$US. It had shot wheel bearings up front, and as expected, very worn down suspension components up front. The ad had no pictures so I had no idea what i was going to go look at... As soon as I saw that is had a steel bumper, I knew I was buying it. Its a manual, and runs fine, other than suspension issues up front, which made it the perfect candidate for the SAS I've wanted to do for years. So soon after i acquired a hilux snorkel for free and mounted it to the r50 A few days ago I moved the big pathy (my green one) out of the shed, laid down some wood, and backed up the white one to be stripped down. It took about 5 hours, but I got the car way up on jacks (the jacks are welded to the rims and tires are flat) and removed the entire subframe. That subframe is WAY heavier than I thought! So the subframe is what holds the motor up, so to remove the subframe, I put a thick strap around the motor, and a jack under it (to hold it in place). Next I got the motor mounts I made and temporarily installed them to make sure they fit. I then decided that the frame was going to get reinforced anywhere that something was getting added. so I added a piece of steel behind it. These motor mounts were then welded in. I then did the same exact thing on the other side Once they were welded in, the motor was now being held up with no subframe! This was the hardest part so far because there was barely any space under the car with the jack in the way. Now with the jack out from under the car and with more space, I started cutting and removing all the old steering stuff. everything from the firewall up was removed. there are two little brackets holding the original steering bend box (90*, not sure the specific name for it). I cut those out with a reciprocating saw. once all the old was out of the way, I ground the "frame" down to raw metal (where the new jeep steering box would go) when I went to mom up the steering box, it wouldn't fit because the wheel well was blocking the back end from sitting on the rail, so I eyeballed it and cut a slot into the well to allow the box to sit. Once up, I mocked up some steel reinforcement plates to the frame, drilled them & the frame, and temporarily bolted up the box to make sure everything fit. Tomorrow the box will come back out so I can trim the reinforcement plates up to size better. Once they are trimmed up, the box will be mounted, plates tacked in, box removed and the rest of the plate will be welded in. I started tinkering with the shaft connecting the wheel to the steering box and am debating on how I am going to splice them together. Probably will cut to length, weld, sleeve, then weld the sleeve to both ends. Any better ideas? the left one is the jeep one, the right is the stock one. I need to connect the top piece from the left one (goes onto the steering box) with the bottom of the right one (goes into end of steering on r50)

I agree with PathyDude17, however there are a couple guys here (TowndawgR50 and Hawairish) that are working on a strong mounting system for our R50s and other custom offerings as well. Have you heard about the power screw issue that affected the VQ35 engines? It’s worth spending some time reading about if your engine could be affected. Welcome

Hello! Before purchasing a grill guard or bull bar, you may want to read some of the "damage multiplier" threads on this and other forums. There's an underlying consensus that in many collisions they may do more bad than good in terms of protecting your front end. I initially wanted one, but they pose some downsides as they're not very strong. They do however seem to be effective for protecting parts of your bumpers or headlights from brush, trees, etc, and mounting lights. There are stories of them helping in collisions, and stories of them turning parking lot collisions into thousand dollar fiascoes. There's plenty of information on it all over the internet, but I thought I should mention it in case you haven't already come across it. If it suits your needs, go for it! The link to Tacoma World is very telling. Lots of firsthand testimonials if you can stand to read through all of it. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/another-bull-bar-pusher-question-are-they-all-damage-multipliers.395343/ Best of Luck, excited to see what you do with your rig!

I am a longhaul O/O eh I have always used older CB's due to the fact it is much easier to have they customized. You can really get some range out of them if a skilled tech does the work. Downside I discovered is the bulk of the hi end models and lack of space in Pathy's eh I have an XLR29 Cobra w power mic. Here in southern BC from a mountain top I can skip clearly down to AZ base stations using that little mobile unit. It is centre dash top mounted. Saves on any bad water crossing oop's eh Lots of clubs use them or the VHF radio which have a gazillion times more range. Plus after 32 years on the highway I have a huge group of buddies to relay road and weather reports from their locations eh. Also truckers are eyes and ears relay for emergency help real fast eh We are everywhere looking and listening.

Alright. I've been ordering parts this weekend (I'm realizing that tubing, wire, switches, relays, and diodes add up... *sigh*), and hopefully I'll put together a high resolution diagram for you all.

I acquired my blue 2003 pathfinder in June of 2018. I belong to a pathfinder group on Facebook, and am just now joining here. I currently have 16x8 Vision Warriors on 265/70/16, LED headlights and fog lights, LED dome lights, and currently deciding on a grille guard or a bull bar. I'd upload photos of my rig, but apparently the photos are too large. Pictures: https://ibb.co/album/bwVfwF Follow me on Instagram for updates! (I'll follow back). @thatbluepathy Cheers! ?

Thanks! Being in Ohio, it's very surprising that there's not a spec of rust on it other than the underside. The previous owner/s must have taken great care of it, and I'm grateful for that!

Here's one on my Mobil 1 filters

My Power Valve Screws are definitely getting some locktite this spring. Just ask @RainGoat about what can happen...... Plenty of information about it on the forum already.

Looks like it's in great condition and should take your future mods well! Welcome ?

Just to clarify, I swapped a stock radio for another stock radio.

I'm finally around to making my homemade wiring harnesses on my 97 Quey for the factory Xenon HID headlights. Up until now I had them wired up to the stock wiring which gave me an uneasy feeling every time I turned them on, plus every time I wanted to use my brights my low beam would go off and the way these things are supposed to work from the factory is when you use your hi beam your low beam hid is supposed to stay on that way you don't ruin your ballast by it going off and then powering back on every time you wanted to use your high beam or your flash to pass I'm using 2 - OEM Nissan 30amp 4 PIN relays to power my lights and 4 - 3A 200v Diodes to stop back current. I got the relays from my local Pull a Part and the 4 diodes from Radio Shack. They come 2 diodes per pack. I've had these lights for quite some time now but it has taken me this long to figure out exactly what type of diode I need for this project if anyone else has any more info please feel free to share. The factory wiring diagram is fairly easy to understand. It's in Russian but you can translate it easy through Google. STAY TUNED................ Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Saturday I stopped by the garage of @TowndawgR50 where he was working on some of the projects he and @hawairish are planning to offer. Most of you probably don't know this, but @TowndawgR50 is an artist as well. It certainly shows in his work. That was some pretty stuff right there!

How many miles do your current struts have on them? The reason it's generally advised to change them at the same time is because, in order to install a coil lift, you have to totally disassemble the strut. While you're doing that much work, you may as well put new on generally. KYB struts with OEM Nissan bearings are a very popular and good option as far as that. Rear shocks only take 2 fasteners to change, so it's up to you when to change them, however longer rear shocks will allow you to take advantage of the additional suspension flex lift coils will make possible. In addition, using a nice shock like Bilstein will improve ride greatly. As far as spacer vs coil, it depends on your intended use of the vehicle, budget, and what you want as far as ride quality. There's a lot more to consider than it seems at the surface. For spacers they will all function the same, so I always recommend Steve's product (sfcreation.com) as he's a long-time member here on the forum and I personally enjoyed his products on my rig. For coils there's two primary options: Old Man Emu or AC. OME (Not to be confused with OEM!) is produced by ARB in Australia and give phenomenal rode quality on and off road, however at less of a lift; right around 1.5". AC will generally ride harsher and may cause your front struts to "top-out" potentially causing them to wear prematurely. However, they provide a true 2" of lift and can take heavier loads better. They're great for a rig laden down with skidplates, rock sliders, and bumpers, or just anybody who doesn't mind a little harder ride who also wants a good amount of lift. My personal recommendation based upon my own experience is a 1" spacer lift paired with OME springs, however this is making out what the R50 platform can take at 2.5" of lift and can make alignment a bit of a PITA. Here's a breakdown of some things to consider: Spacers: Good: -cheap -simple -you can add/remove to level out your ride, especially as you change out springs -maintais factory ride quality Bad: -changes the location of the range of motion of the CV's, which means that at full droop they could bind (I can explain this more if you're confused, I may even do a write up on it with diagrams since it tends to confuse newbies!) -maintain factory ride quality Springs: Good: -stiffer ride/better load carrying capacity -keeps CV's in stock range of motion (again, I can explain of you'd like) so no binding issues Bad: -in some (definitely not all, don't let it scare you!) cases may damage struts -stiffer ride -more expensive Hopefully that's helpful for you. I think it's fairly comprehensive, but it's late and I just got done with 4 days of working on my 4Runner, so I'm tired haha.