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I cannot answer specifically about those hubs, but it looks like you're new here (welcome!), so to generally address the manual hub topic in case you weren't aware: Manual hubs are completely OK to swap onto any R50 Pathfinder or QX4, even those with the electronic AUTO-mode transfer case. Just make sure if you're in any mode other than 2wd those hubs are locked up! Personally I had Warn hubs on my rig; those and Mile Marker seem to be the most popular. I haven't heard of anybody using Geo Tracker hubs. If you've got an opportunity to get them really cheap I suppose you could get them cheap, but if you were going to spend any notable amount of money on em I'd just go aftermarket personally, just because you know they'll fit. Oh, and boy will they every save wear on those CV axles!!!

Aw man, i totally forgot about that haha. Yeah thats cool! Hopefully there will be other entries Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

Hope this qualifies as a "mud " pic Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

Just wanted to reflect over what I’ve learned from this forum. When I joined I was 16 in high school with a stock pathfinder and was clueless. Now I’m 25 with the same pathfinder and it’s about as built up as it can be until I go custom fab with it. Through reaserch and communication I have been able to build my pathfinder into what it is today. I feel that this forum is so much better than any Facebook group or things of that nature. I have joined some of these groups recently and I have found that all it is is people who have no idea what they are talking about making posts and wanting there car magically diagnosed and everyone asking questions about what lift I have or what size tires I have or how many miles are on my car etc etc etc when I have answered the question time after time and made posts about my build info. It made me realize how lazy people are and the lack of reaserch that is performed in order to make your dream pathfinder a reality. I just wanted to take a moment to thank people for telling newbies to go do homework before asking questions, that all the answers are literally right on this very forum and that it’s easy to find and get answers without bothering everyone with simple questions. I now have a coil lift with a sub frame drop, full belly skid plates, supersliders, locking hubs, 33s, and an endless list of other modifications, it took many years of hard work and experimentation but without this forum I would be where I am today. Here’s to those who have walked the same line as me and built their dream with the help of this forum. Cheers.

Wow, this post is just the motivation I needed. Coincidentally, I am a 16-year-old high school student with a stock R50 Pathy that has been in my family since I was conceived (my parents wanted a larger car to accommodate a child, and my mother’s 1990 Isuzu Stylus wasn’t exactly a perfect fit LOL). The Pathy means the world to me, and I plan on holding on to her as long as I live. This past summer, the ol’ girl was passed down the line to me. I have been very interested in cars, but never had the chance to work with a car hands-on. Since then, I’ve made a few modifications to my truck, all of which I was able to learn to do myself by joining this community. I have a rust-removal/restoration project on my agenda, and although there were no existing topics on exactly what needed to be done, I just replied to an old restoration post with my question on the details of lightly-rusted underbody restoration. Within two days, I had about 12 or so member responses, which were all very helpful. Thank you for sharing your story. I hope one day, when I am a bit older, I too can share the story of my Pathfinder!

Watched your YT video today. Always impressed when somebody takes the time to film something like that. Nice job. As a NWer though, that gravelly ground definitely marks you as East of the Cascades. My street grows here on the West side & I think@TowndawgR50 place may make mine look dry.

My Stereo may or may not have been installed using wire nuts.......

Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.[@hawairish] Coming from a home improvement/remodeling background, I’ve definitely been guilty of that....(he red facedly reflects on the Jeep Grand Cherokee reverse camera install he did for his Mom)

It works!

Hmmm.... I'll look for that this weekend.

I have no idea what's in there, unfortunately. They look a bit like the grain-of-wheat bulbs my model trains used when I was a kid but they're shorter. There isn't really a base, just a rubber plug with the bare wires from the bulb wrapped through the holes and pressed over a pair of contacts. I've been going through my dash switches and soldering in LEDs rather than tracking down a plug-in option. You have to take the switches apart to get into them. Don't try to take the rocker part out, the tabs will break and the switch will be junk; separate the switch from the back (you'll see the little locking tabs back there) and the bulbs should be easily accessible. I've been meaning to do a writeup when I do the last two (actually my e-at and rear wiper switches), but I have yet to figure out how to remove them from the dash without taking the whole dash out, and I'm in no hurry to do that again. I seem to remember somebody tracked down a Radioshack part number for them at some point. I might be thinking of the bulbs for the climate control, though. Edit: here's a part #. Hopefully the indicator uses the same bulb as the general switch illumination.

Exact... When you order spacers, you will get the right size of bolts with it. On the other hand, if you are upgrading an existing installation and would like a different size of bolts, then you can specify it when you order. For example, you already have 1" spacers installed. You want to go higher and order another 1" spacers. If you do not specify anything, you will get 2.5" bolts. This will be too short if you plan on stacking the spacers with the ones you already have installed. This is why this option is there...so you can specify 3.5" long bolts with your 1" spacer kit. Cheers.

Ok maybe not as on-topic as I had remembered, but may be useful info if you end up deciding the dome light doesn't supply enough power and you have to set up a dedicated circuit (but then you run into the issue of it not coming on when you unlock...maybe there's an extra fuse slot that's part of this circuit? Or perhaps you could run a separate circuit that's powered all the time but only activated by a low-power line from the dome light circuit via a transistor or something? Again I don't have a ton of knowledge of electronics so kinda shooting in the dark/brainstorming.).

Is cornbread gluten free?

+1 on that, super easy