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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/12/2018 in all areas

  1. I followed stiocs approach and it’s been working great for me. Noticed an improved on my drive home that evening. I didn’t have any tube lying around the shop so I went to Home Depot and got a black steel pipe with threaded ends for under $15 (CAD) cut the ends off, and squished them in the press. I went a little farther and rounded the ends and then welded them shut. Quick coat of self etch primer then some black paint and on it went. Been on my truck for about 3 weeks now and it’s not coming off. Only thing I need to do is to make sure it’s torqued to correct spec now that I have a factory service manual. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. *also on my phone at the moment so if you want pics I can put them up later*
    2 points
  2. Some shots from a November trip to Anza-Borrego and the Salton Sea. Great time, but pretty sure it accelerated my control arm bushing disintegration...
    2 points
  3. The manual transfers have trouble disengaging if they're torque bound, but the ATX14A uses clutches for 4x engagement, so it shouldn't have that problem. Again, I'd go through the diagnostics in the FSM and see if you can get any answers out of it that way. Might not hurt to check the fluid level/condition while you're at it.
    2 points
  4. I solder/shrink just about everything. When tapping into a wire, I usually either cut the wire (so I can slide the shrink wrap on), strip it, and solder it back together with the new wire included, or cut the insulation in two places with the strippers, slit between the cuts with a razor, then peel off the insulation and wrap/solder the new wire around the bare spot. The trouble with the second way is that you can't get shrink tube over it, so you're stuck using tape or liquid schmoo; the trouble with the first is that the original wire gets shorter, which isn't really an option if it's part of a harness. Look for the shrink tube with the glue inside. It melts when you shrink the tubing, sealing the joint against moisture and preventing the tubing from slipping off. I think it's the marine grade stuff.
    2 points
  5. PathyDude17 is correct, assuming you tap into the lead before the dome light switch. Technically, you could trigger off the ground side of the switch, if you wanted the lights controlled by the switch, but that's unorthodox. This is exactly my approach, and for the same reasons. There are some places where it's impractical, though, like when there are short leads to work with; as Slartibartfast noted, it shortens the wire. I usually only consider the 2nd option (peeling insulation, looping wire, solder) if I can pull one of the terminals out of the harness to slip heat shrink onto the splice. I won't use the liquid or electrical tape for that splice unless it's the only option. I will, however, resort to taps if I need something quick, basic, or potentially temporary. There are good and bad options. I like the Posi-Taps the most, but they're a bit expensive and bulky. However, they provide a solid connection without crimping, and just put a little pinhole into the wire insulation: T-Taps/Scotchloks tend to be pretty reliable, but they get a bad rap that I think comes from people who don't match wire gauge thickness to the tap, and the internal blade cuts into the wire and not just the insulation, or doesn't get through the insulation correctly. I've never had a problem with them, but like the Posi-Taps, they come off the wire at 90° which sometimes prevents looming wires nicely. I like these inline Scotchloks, but they're a pain to remove and can allow for the added wire to slip out. None of these options are exactly pretty, but if you lack the soldering skills, tools, and/or patience, they're perfect for you. Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.
    1 point
  6. Exact... When you order spacers, you will get the right size of bolts with it. On the other hand, if you are upgrading an existing installation and would like a different size of bolts, then you can specify it when you order. For example, you already have 1" spacers installed. You want to go higher and order another 1" spacers. If you do not specify anything, you will get 2.5" bolts. This will be too short if you plan on stacking the spacers with the ones you already have installed. This is why this option is there...so you can specify 3.5" long bolts with your 1" spacer kit. Cheers.
    1 point
  7. This is a good resource https://tiresize.com/chart/
    1 point
  8. On the WD21 the tie rods don't have zerks but the upper ball joints do. And the driveshaft u joints all do but you have to remove a bolt first and put a zerk in.
    1 point
  9. Thanks for the awesome answer RainGoat!
    1 point
  10. Any thoughts on this approach to a missing link? If it holds up as good as anything else, I'd like to give it a shot
    1 point
  11. Okay. I have heated mirrors too. It's a rainy chilly day here and I turned on the rear defog. As I parked the car and was walking in, I turned back and checked the mirrors. They were warm and dry. So it heats them up too. Cool.
    1 point
  12. I think much of what I replied to on your original light bar thread applies here to some degree. For this particular thread, I might also make the following suggestions: In regards to wire gauge, start with Power = Volts x Amps, or P=VA. Figure out amp draw first (A = P/V), then you can use a variety of wire gauge charts. Wire gauge, part 2: the length of wire matters, too. BTW, I don't recommend those pod lights for that application: too much amp draw for the application, blinding light, very bulky, heat generation, limited space. At 140W, they'd warrant 10AWG (max 15A) because of the 10A-12A draw (140W/14V = 10A, 140W/12V = 11.7A), exceeding 12AWG (9.3A max), but because they'd need about 20' of wire, you might even consider 8AWG...a bit heavy duty for the application, though. Having installed flush mount lights under my liftgate (see below), there's not much room to work with unless you're willing to cut metal. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of low profile flush mount LED options out there. The adhesive LEDs aren't aesthetically appealing, but are great functionally. Plan on separating your power needs to front vs. back, if you haven't already. That way, you can run dedicated leads to each area with a thicker gauge wire, then distribute power on thinner gauge wires. This will spare you a lot of headache routing wires. The cheap USB/Voltmeter/Socket combos that you can find everywhere on Amazon and eBay are great, inexpensive ways to add those items anywhere. All they need are two wires (and can be daisy-chained in most scenarios) and a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" bit. And there are tons of options available. Consider your circuit demands when thinking about relays and switches, as one or both might not be necessary. Generally speaking: You really only need a relay if the max amp draw on the circuit will exceed the max amp rating of the switch, or if you want the circuit to energize in the ACC/ON positions. A switch, of course, is only if you want/need manual control. If worried about draining your battery, you're better off using a relay and ACC/ON lead. Otherwise, a switch doesn't really offer much practicality unless there's some need (including general safety) to disable all or part of the circuit. Having it control a light makes perfect sense, of course. ... I've done a few projects in my truck that might align with what you're wanting. Though only an option if you switch to a single-DIN headunit, I bought a factory radio-delete panel and mounted components to it. Voltmeter, dual USB, and aux audio input pod for the radio. The voltmeter and USB port tap off the factory power socket. From Jax99's air compressor setup, the change pocket by your left knee might make for a suitable place to tuck a USB port and voltmeter there. I'll likely be going back to a double-DIN headunit soon, so those will all get relocated. (And in case you're wondering, I swapped out the pocket under the radio with one from an All-Mode truck, so that affords some additional switch space, for which there are Carling-sized USB bodies that will fit there. The All-Mode switch is wired to control my air compressor and lockers.) This is just a panel kit that came with a switch, voltmeter, socket, and dual USB components. Wired it up for my fridge. The panel cover is on a simple harness coming off a 6-circuit fuse panel. I ran an 8AWG wire from the battery to it. I intend to run all other cargo accessories and exterior lighting through this. Also, I don't know if all R50s have that socket in the lower right of the pic, but I think all the trim panels have the flat spot and socket wiring behind it. You can buy the OE socket, or put any other socket/port/switch there. The wires come through an existing rubber cap. As for liftgate lighting... I really liked these pods, as they're very low profile both above and below the mounting surface, but I wish there was more light output. The lens is also a switch. I ran the wire through the OE grommet/boot in the upper LH corner of the gate and over to the rear cargo light, and that's where they draw their power from (yellow harness). I just drilled out rivets on the cargo lamp, put in my leads, and riveted it back together. This allowed the factory switch to act as the master switch for all three pods, then I could turn each on/off as individually. However, the interior lights will turn off automatically after a few minutes to prevent draining the battery. You must open a door to get the light back on, but for the liftgate, the door switch is integrated into the latch and is not convenient to toggle. So, I added a switch (subtly shown below with an unlit blue ring) that toggles the door switch circuit...sorry for the crappy pic, but it's mounted on the plastic bump on the trim behind the pivot for the wiper.
    1 point
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